Just to add some more context since this discussion has expanded beyond the original question, I got a lot of learnings after getting stuck in the mud that changed how I felt about many recovery strategies that I had previously derived solely from reading.
1) Mud gets on everything really fast...
@TeCKis300 That's what I had been thinking about at one point, but after getting seriously stuck last weekend in the mud, into which the vehicle sunk a lot on its own before I worsened the problem by spinning my wheels, I realized that under-frame routing can be really hard. And mud gets...
Another battery a no-go due to my space requirements. So I just want a beefy line to reduce voltage drop from front to rear. Flex conduit could work. I'm just more worried about the implications of a short under winch-level amp loads.
I've decided to carry a rear hitch-mounted winch with me on trips into areas with deep mud. The idea is to get something light that I can pop in and out of the hitch and use with a pulley system to reduce the load capacity required of it.
Question is, what's the best way to get big amperage...
Yes, it's going to be that or a second hitch mount winch in the rear, along with a Pull-Pal. But one thing I learned from my recent mis-adventure was how time-consuming and dirty things can get when they're made of fiber and stored in bags and you're stuck in deep mud.
The other day, I got stuck in the mud. Mud that was almost like quick sand. I sank down to the frame as I dug a deeper and deeper hole. Part of the problem was I could not go forward due to water, and my Cruiser never does as well in reverse.
With better care, I could have avoided the...
I'm afraid my setup is very basic and inelegant. I hide half the mess behind my ProClip and let the other half be.
The Pro Clip is probably my #1 upgrade. The phone is right next to my wheel, as close to the eye as possible without being an actual projectile aimed at my eyes. Minimizes my...
Great diagram, @daneo . Thank you!
I have the car integration kit too. In fact, it's the cable from that kit (with connectors replaced) that I'm using for the run from the starter battery to the Victron.
I had a few issues with the kit over many months of usage. First, the connection between...
So, another bit of clarity on this situation. After taking more measurements, I think I figured out a little more precisely what's happening.
The Victron puts out my choice of any voltage in the 20V to 30V range. Meanwhile, the Anderson-like input on the Goal Zero Yeti is rated for 14V-50V...
Well, after further testing with a multimeter, as @TeCKis300 suggested, I believe the issue is the Goal Zero power station that I'm charging.
The voltage measured at the aux end of the wires from the starter battery is almost identical to the voltage at the starter battery terminals. This...
I should report another factor that may or may not be related. This just came to my awareness yesterday.
Yesterday, when using a hair dryer in my Goal Zero 1500x power station (the aux battery being discussed above), the meter on the battery initially said 93% charged. I was drawing 1490watts...
@TeCKis300 No, that's not quite it. Sorry if my presentation of the data was confusing.
When the vehicle is idling and the charger is off, the voltage at the battery post is 13.82V (per multimeter), and the voltage at the charger is 13.8V (per Victron app). So the loss of voltage is only...
I did some troubleshooting today, including your tests @TeCKis300.
I redid all the input and output connections at the charger point. I also redid the connections on the switch in between the charger output cable and the Yeti. I also redid the installation of the battery billets and cable on...
E-rated KO2s here. Awesome tire for almost everything. I drive long distances on the highway and in most conditions offroad, though I don't do much rock climbing.
Biggest limitation of the KO2 for me has been deep mud. They clog and lose any bite very quickly. Also, trails covered in wet...
Thank you for the help here, @TeCKis300. I will conduct these tests soon. I'm also picking up a fresh set of terminal adapters today--the Deka brand, which are lead and identified as being for group 31. It might be worth noting my generic Amazon adapters are zinc.
Doesn't have to be 24V exactly, but the Yeti 1500x requires at least 14V when using the high-power charging port. Prior to the upgrade, the system was working great for me for many months.
The Victron can be adjusted to output less--for example, 20V--without changing the watts going into the...
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