Good idea with changing the turbo that was far too big. The 2871 will serve you well.
I run a T3 off the shelf split pulse turbo manifold.
If your 1hz has high kms already or its only got the 10mm pump a new 11mm 100s pump or a 12mm pump will show you massive gains.
Open up the intake...
Hey bro, firstly remove those hiclones ;)
You look to be severely underfueled.
Don't worry about the rest of the numbers, just tune your fuel and boost to a point where ur happy. 550deg post.
Drive it hard, if it's getting hot just increase the boost a few psi.
Hydro oil will take the easiest path, so that's into the box push the cylinder in the box and back to tank.
That is until the box has bottomed out and now pushing the ram is easiest.
The reason you had it moving 1 way but not the other before is pison reaction are differences...
My issues are only when changing between gears. I like the feel of the organic/ceramic combo clutch for offroad, just enough slip when moving from stationary so your not spitting your rock packing out.
I need more clamp pressure I'd say, that 'should' decrease the 'take up' time.
Yep, still the Garrett. Once she grenades I'll get Graeme to build me a special grunter for it.
I will have to sort out a better clutch too, this Isuzu hybrid still slips real bad if I power on too hard.
Quick update, Just spent 2 weekends driving the Ute hard at Tuff Truck and a 4wd show doing jumps and speed tests.
Running 40 psi the whole time :)
The car is over 3t and runs 40" tyres but still gets to 100 in a few seconds and then goes airborne ;)
Never dynoed it with everything on there, i just tweak it and drive it.
Yes the bonnet is pretty average, it was only supposed to be like that for testing but yeeah thats years ago now. You will see a new bonnet and color scheme within the next few weeks.
Graeme, after TT lets talk. Both this...
I assumed it would have been grabbed off the web already but here it is anyway. I built this over 4 years ago, a few bits are different now.
Rear intercooler rad
The increased cracking pressure is to improve atomisation of the larger fuel charge in a turbo setup. It's achieved by shimming the injector pin spring.
I doubt we are talking of much extra pressure, perhaps 100-200 psi. More than within the capabilities of the standard IP.
Your best bet is going to be to do what was suggested above, blank off the egr port on the manifold. And leave everything else. If you want to remove all the rest of it too, trace the vacation line back to its origin and plug it. Some sensors may need their wiring bridged to stop showing fault...