I didn't use any on the screws, but in the first iteration I used plenty between the igniter and the top of the OE housing, and in the latest iteration I used it between the housing and the heat sink as well as between the heat sink and the igniter.
No other problems that I've seen with the GM module, other than the tendency for it to overheat after an hour or so of continuous driving. The worst was freeway driving to a friend's place in the Catskills. Fine all the way until I hit the slower mountain roads, then lots of coughing and...
Late update on my cheapo igniter repair.
My truck had begun running rough after about an hour of driving--misfiring, backfiring, barely staying alive, etc. Every time it did this, though, it would be fine again after cooling back down for a bit. After ruling out vacuum leaks, I figured that the...
The quickest and easiest re-gear you can do is swap in the third members from an FJ62. With 31 to 33 inch tires, it'll make your speedometer read accurately. You can do it yourself over a weekend without any special skills or tools, but if you're looking at larger tires, you'll probably want...
On mine, I think that the coil is worn out near the mid-way point. Full tank, it reads full. After 60 miles, it reads about 1/2 tank. After 70-75 miles, it reads empty. Also, as it gets closer to the mid-way mark, it fluctuates more with braking/acceleration/turning than it does near full.
I...
Mine does the same thing, and has since I bought the truck 7 years ago. I'd swap out the sender, but the screws that hold it in place are so rusted that they're stripped out. So I just reset my trip odometer every time I gas up, and fill the tank every 200 miles or so. That gives me a good...
It's part of the air injection system. Not necessary for normal operation, but hopefully that check valve is working properly so you don't have exhaust blasting into the engine bay.
Northern Westcheater or southern Westcheater? Crum is a good guy, Cruiserhead, and top notch welder, but I f you can't get your truck that far, there are a couple collision repair shops up Route 22 in Putnam that you could check out. I can't vouch for them, though.
You should also post this...
I'll bet that your distributor is installed off a tooth (like mine was, briefly, on Saturday). I had the exact same symptoms after putting the distributor back in the truck after adding the bushing.
Pull the spark plugs and spin the motor until the timing pin is pointed directly at the TDC mark...
Reviving a somewhat old thread, I had to give a huge thanks to Clove and Slow Left. The highway pinging was driving me nuts. For years the only way that I could avoid it was to disconnect my vacuum advance, but I just saw this thread last week and had to try their the fix myself.
74¢ for the...
FWIW, Last year, my oil cooler blew out while driving and I dumped all my antifreeze on the side of I-87 in about 1 1/2 minutes. (Thank you NE road salt :censor:.) Got towed to the nearest Autozone, bought some replacement hose and three gallons of premix, bypassed the effed up cooler, and drove...
I've got a Powertrax in the rear end of my 60. And though I wouldn't go so far as to say it's dangerous, I'm definitely not a fan of it in snow and ice. I drive my truck on the weekends in a hilly rural area, where it hasn't gotten me into any trouble. I might feel differently about it, though...
Since you're disabling the air injection, I'd seriously consider doing a full desmog. Otherwise, your smog pump, which is now just taking up space an a complicated idler pulley, will die on you at a terribly inopportune moment.
Post-desmog, my cat is actually running hotter now that I've...
Ok, so looking at this pic, if yours is also a 60, I guess there is a part called the connector (77209). Can you, for the time being, snake a fuel line over or under the frame, to connect to the fuel tank, bypassing the connector? Probably not a safe long-term solution, but if it gets you up...
I'm not sure what part the fuel connector is. Is yours a 60 or a 62? In the quarter panel of my 60 I've got a vapor separator--a large plastic piece--but I don't think I've got any metal tubes other than the hard lines and the bits that run straight into the tank.
I should probably look at the...
Remove the metal shield between the frame and the gas filler tube, and you'll see where it sheared off of. My guess is that it broke off of the tank, itself, which sucks balls.
The salted roads in the Northeast eat our cruisers, so this sort of crap is constantly happening to mine. Drives me...
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