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This is EXACTLY the response I was looking for! I'll give it another look through next week with some updates.

Yup I've done the clear hose. Basically what happens is fuel prime stays SOLID upstream of the prime pump. Downstream, going to the IP, the fuel depletes and exits through the return line. The primer is good and so is the hose (it's OEM Toyota 12mm hose lol). So I'm pretty sure it's the IP...

Yup I checked that. The spring seems pretty soft, not sure what it’s supposed to be like. Update: replaced hand pump primer and no change, checked vacuum on the return line on injectors and it’s solid. Literally the only thing it could be coming from is the fuel pump. Checked the gaskets on...

Yup. We eliminated the tank and anything upstream as the issue - we put the inlet hose into a bottle of diesel that supplies the primer and it behaved the same. Also when the return hose is disconnected, it just continuously pours out diesel from the pump.

No one has been able to give me a straight answer - what specifically would cause loss of prime through the RETURN line and not the MAIN line. Like this should pinpoint where a vacuum leak would be located but it isn't obvious to me, especially since there's a check valve on the fitting from the...

We actually discovered this by putting the return hose in a bottle and as we primed the system it was continuously spilling diesel in to the bottle through the return hose. So we eliminated any issues with the tank

So confirmed the fuel is not returning to the tank via main fuel line. When it loses prime, fuel is going back to the tank via return line. This is super confusing to me…

Is it possible to have air leaks but no diesel leaks though? I might pull the banjo on the pump as well. All clamps are tight and OEM hoses and OEM clamps so everything is to spec and tight...

Hi Everyone, I recently installed a 1HD-FTE in my FZJ100 and I noticed that I lose fuel prime within minutes of the motor turning off. Funny enough, it needs the same number of hand pumps no matter how long it sits, 5 minutes or 12 hours, everytime it's around 5-6 pumps until the primer...

I managed to do it on my converted HDJ81 but it was a nightmare. Took a LOT of wiggling and small adjustments to make it happen. Definitely not an easy job.

yes, I’m talking about the block with pistons and crank installed without head. I’m wondering if I can use a complete outfitted FTE block with FTE pistons with an FT head and valves.

Funny, I was thinking the same thing about just buying a sensor. Do you have pics of the rebuild with the FTE block on your 1HD-T?

I heard on another forum that the FTE block has a hole for the crank position sensor. Did you just plug that on your 1HD-T?

Very interesting, do you know which part number you used for your 1HD-T? I was looking at 11400-17110 for an FT rebuild.

Hello, Theoretical question here... if one were to rebuild an FT, is it possible to use a complete OEM FTE short block for a rebuild? Pricing for the FTE short block is substantially cheaper from some suppliers. My understanding is that the overall layout of the block is the same, aside from...

Having done a manual swap on an 80, my best recommendation is to just buy a factory manual 3rd gen surf.

I agree with tapage on this one... what components are prone to breaking? I always assumed that failure rate was directly related to age and generation of the gearbox considering Toyota has revised the internals in these things so many times.

They're basically the same. Just different gear ratios in lower gears. 4th and 5th are the same.

33030-6A211 is the replacement for 33030-6A050 which is from a 92-99 FZJ7# series. Typically 70 series have H150. You can also check if it's H150 by checking the part #s of the internals and looking at 1st gear. Typically the indicator is that 1st gear has a single synchro in H150 and triple in...

This is an H150 w/ 1FZ bell housing. Not sure about UN spec though...