Maybe . . . I'm sure if I really literally screwed it up or out that could make a big difference but, as far as I know, the timer mechanism there is to advance the timing under load so little adjustments should be ok.
Fuel comes from the feed pump and partly channeled through the timer. Extra...
According to the manual:
"The hydraulic type timer installed in the lower part of the injection pump is operated by the fuel pressure of the pump housing, and movement of the roller ring by the timer advances the injection angle and controls the injection timing."
I don't think I can screw...
Agreed on the pouring out thing. It was just dripping on cold startup.
How about backing the adjust screw off another turn or even more?
What are the implications of increasing the timer piston stroke?
I realize this is probably diesel shop stuff but thanks for any hints!
I tried tightening the timer adjusting screw up to two turns and the sound seemed to get worse.
So I tried backing off a turn (from the original setting) and the sound is definitely is a lot less.
Should I back off even more???? According the manual I am adjusting the piston timer stroke...
Gotcha . . . funny thing though is when I get the rattle I can feel it through the back timer cover way more than the front (which is where the adjusting screw is).
I can see the Timer Adjusting Screw (FU-52) is preset to a range (7.5mm - 8mm) so maybe I can try "tightening" it closer to 7.5...
Looks like that might be the problem. Unfortunately getting access the back timer cover means pulling the pump. I can do that in about a month but what is causing the "rattle"???
No sound cold but once it heats up you get a high pitched vibrating sound between 1200 and 1600...
Thanks for the feedback. You may be right about the rebuild! 180k on the truck and run with additive since I've had it from 120k. The mechanic would be for pulling the pump and putting it back on. There is a good diesel shop in Cranbrook B.C. which does a lot of mine trucks if I have to get the...
I had a cold start fuel drip in the winter and it went away with spring so I didn't worry about it too much.
It started leaking the first few cool nights of September and, soon after, I started hearing a funny rattle at about 1500 rpm. I put some bio in the fuel and the...
Since I'm going to replace my ehubs in the next few days (once the temps drop a little) some instructions would be GREAT.
The procedure looks pretty straightforward. You take out the ehub assembly and then attach the Raddapter (tm) and then the manual hub . . .
Hmmmm, good question about the conflicting ic info.
Confusing! I am thinking turbo and intercooler for my 1HZ so this is a pretty important point.
Some people saying 100 - 200 degree less EGT's and someone else saying it's a no go. . .
Good. I had a similar overheating problem with my HZ . . . just on those long up hills and the major problem was the clutch fan.
Added a couple of tubes of clutch fan oil and it's now much better but the temp spring is going and I will need to get a new clutch fan assembly if I want to do...
I think the answer is close but no cig for other 70 lights . . .
I remember some discussion a year or so ago about getting DOT approved 77/78 rear lights and Crushers clearly stating there were differences between other 70's and the 77/78's.
Here's one of the threads with comparison pics...
Lot's of good info there and it sounds like Louis is putting together a nice turbo kit for sale here in Canada.
HZJ77 is a good truck . . .
-no turbo but much better than my old BJ60
-1HZ is a good engine, they're still making them which should mean something (for reliability and parts)
-1HZ is a smoooooth diesel engine and doesn't smoke much if setup properly
-NOT much lighter than the...