I don't see how that gains you much for $800 bucks?
The laminated tooling I designed for mine works REALLY well. Having the narrow bottom groove for sheetmetal is really nice. The swag setup really limits you on how short the flanges and bend offset can be. Beyond that, having the ability to...
Not needed. The vertical height is buying you the most strength in that beam. The welding will just pull/bend it. I'd delete.
I would up size the hardware used to hold the truss on also. I did 1/2 inch grade 8. If I do something stupid like max out the jacks using too narrow a bottom die width...
I think a pin would be ok.
What are the extra strap/material at the top of the upper die truss? Anything you can do to eliminate welding the better. That will prevent warping and keep the upper die straighter.
I would increase the length of the tubing for the upper die attachment. Make it as long as the main upper rib is tall. If you look close on mine you can see another set of the brass set screws. These help align the top die to the bottom as there is slop between the two tubes...
No issues with alignment at all. I was able to dial in things pretty easy.
For the bottom beam, overall height is generally your friend. My bottom structure is 2x4x1/4 box stacked on top of each other long ways to form an 8" tall x 2" wide beam. I just have some round discs for the ram bases...
It would be better if the upper truss came off easily. Mine collapses by slacking the tension screw and pulling the top pin. . This is handy for bending things over the top of the truss, like a 3 bend box.
If you design you dies like mine, don't forget that you need a little room at the ends for the nuts that pinch things together with the all thread. This can change the overall width you need for the bed/truss.
Also. Remember this is a press brake not a sheetmetal brake. The bend radius will typically be set by a combination of the upper die AND an air bending spring back component unless you are going to bottom the dies.
You may not get super crisp bends in sheetmetal like material for better or worse.
Hello. I'll get you some more pics and that video soon.
Don't over think it.
You don't really need any fancy guides. I added a few brass 1/4-20 set screws with lock nuts on both the sliding points and where the upper die pins onto the frame. This let's me take the slop out of the assembly...