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The tailgate is the same, at least the peeling paint under the "A" looks the same and upper edge is bent upwards on the drivers side. Looks like a new dent behind the driver rear tire low on the bed. The Dash and front turn signals are mentioned in the OP's ad.

Sorry for the late reply. Ebay is where I originally saw it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/164114449245?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=AUYBmgz2TMy&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=2DocZuhMQ5u&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I saw this one when it was for sale previously. Not knowing anything about the "newer" FJ45's I was a little concerned by the dash. I'm glad it was an attempt at a retrofit and not how they came from the factory. It looked weird! I was planning on blacking out all the chrome too. Good choice on...

Does the A/C work? Do you have any more pictures of the dash? What work was recently done?

You definitely need to add more fuel to get more power. Cranking up the boost on the stock engine may get you a little bit more if its been limiting fueling because of lack of air. Have you looked into adjusting the spill valve? I've heard it can make a big difference but I've never had to try...

Its been a long time since I did mine, but I remember it being fairly easy as timing belts go. Have a look at the engine manual and see if its something you could do yourself. You definitely don't want it to break! You might also get more responses in the diesel section of the forum.

Back on this again. Still need a rear axle.

Did it just need capacitors? I replaced all the electrolytics in my ECU a few years ago.

Is the fixed windshield original? I figured it had just been welded up.

I had to do something similar on my All-Trac for the starter solenoid wire. It ran from the battery on the drivers side all the way to the passengers side of the car, then through the firewall them back to the Drivers side! Its way too long and goes through 6 or 7 connectors before it gets to...

I have an old evaporator from a supra that I have been thinking about using. My 1KZ already has a compressor on it. I really would like to see what you did under the dash!

Problem solved! It was the master cylinder. I ended up replacing it since my reservoirs were cracking. I'll take the old one apart and try to figure out what the problem is with it. Thanks for all the ideas! I definitely learned some things!

Not specifically, Is it damaged from leaking capacitors? I'd be willing to try. I still have an auto ecu on the shelf i'm no longer using.

Thanks, I misread that before. I was assuming he meant the rod at the pedal. I have a new master on the way and I'll get the booster rod checked too.

No, I was not aware it is adjustable. I'll check that too.

I'm unsure how to diagnose the lines other than what I have done. They are old and crusty like the master so replacement is probably a good idea anyway.

I have adjusted the pedal to the limit and it did not help, even removing the master from the booster did not help. I'm assuming that the lines are ok because I can bleed off pressure at the master.

Thanks for all the ideas! I think I have narrowed it down to the Master. If I crack the line at the master fluid comes running out and I can hear the calipers relaxing and the truck moves easily by hand. I tried removing the "Residual valve" entirely, turning the rod at the pedal as far from the...

I ran out of time to bleed them and test. I ended up swapping the valves. I pushed them together to try to figure out which had the most spring pressure and put that one in the rear line. It was hard to tell but I will see if it helps tonight.

I have 2 of these although they don't look like valves. They have holes and pegs all over them that seem like they would not seal against the master or the nut that holds them in. The one from under the front line had a tangled up spring which I will fix and re-install.