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I'd not use. Since it's "H" or "Mercon." Probably be okay, but why chance it.

I've some bumper skins and other stock parts. But why bother if going to "parts yard" BTW. I've interest in engine, rear sway bar and other parts. We should talk!

Temperature affects resistance. Heat increases resistance which reduces current, cold has opposite effect. It's why door looks fail to work, on sunny side in heat of summer.

I do have a LH with arm. If you'll PM me with email and physical address, we can work-out details.

OH! You've a modified electric system. If battery volts below 12.7V (using a voltmeter), before trying to start. You may be under charging.

Just the sensor or w/arm? I ask because the ball joint boots of arms, are usually in poor condition. Which leads to ball joint freezing.

Steering jerking to the right, indicates a right side issue. It may be the snap ring is off., an axle splines of FDS may be catching and releasing hub flange splines. Maybe FDS CV freezing up. If you like: PM (DM) with email or phone #, and we can talk.

Couple of thoughts on new-ish globes failing: Killer of globes is excessive pressure on them. With fronts this can happen with improper T-bar adjustment. Which can be from neglect, mostly to LF globe. Or sensor lift and or extra weight in front end and not compensated. It's also possible old...

Your descriptions "pull and jerk right along with a knocking / cranking noise" "pulled off the road and limped to a gas station" are unclear. It's hard to say if you're talking about a front end issue. As I could also take your description as and engine or transmission issue. Who's your Mechanic?

Here a wheel hub where they pounded off the rotor improperly. I see this all the time. I can usually pound and flat file to get the run-out corrected. But this one, was not restorable. Even the wheel had indentation from the hub. It was a case where when wheel torqued on, a gap remained between...

Here's the same wheel bearing service, where it get's interesting

Here's same bad wheel bearing service from above, as O open it up.

Unfortunately most shops can't keep a good mechanic. Find a 100 series specialist in your area. Or. A good Dealership. A sign of good: Is mechanic and other employees, have worked there for many many years. I've one Toyota Dealership near me, most have worked at for 20 plus years. Your FDS...

“fishtailiness” when accelerating on gravel" Indicates you front end issue. Very loose wheel bearing perhaps. To loose and wheel speed sensor may have been damaged.

I've not heard of "typical cv axle knocking noise that happens when I am making a turn. " What I hear is a clicking sound on turns. But would be unusual to hear on factory installed at only 86K miles, unless lifted or boot ripped open. All to often, improper wheel bearing service leads to FDS...

I just replace clear as it gets hard, with easy to find hardware tubing. Seems to last few years. Clear best, as can we watch for air bubbles.

Try shifting into "N" and or slamming into "P". If bad starter we'll typically see dash lights dim, same with bad battery if any lights at all. 11.4V is a bit low. So if above Neutral switch is not issue, try charging battery above 12.7V.

Toyota & Lexus dealership parts dep., stock the pig tails. Call one!

A few spline off dead center (rack to intermediate shaft), TRE's (Toe) adjust easily corrects. This would not change contact point of knuckle stops. How far we can turn left or right is determined, by the knuckle stops. If stopped removed, steering wheel/wheels would turn further. Even further...

Probably was the EFI fuse, which was replaced. But that would not likely have anything to do with P0430 (BK2 CAT). It can be a wonky O2 sensor. But most times, the CAT is bad. With a CAT failure, we need to look closely, for upstream possible issue. If not in flood or CAT has taken a bad...