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I used DFIS in Portland Oregon. Oddly enough their website doesn't seem to be up at the moment. They are a highly recommended diesel shop. I had used them before for injector rebuilding for my VW TDI. The mechanic named Kyle worked on the pump and injectors this time around. Very knowledgable. I...

I am curious if anyone else has tried to replace the little shock absorber attached to the side of the engine? Mine is a 1983 diesel longbed rwd with the L engine. Looks like it has been discontinued as a part from Toyota. Maybe something from somewhere else will fit in that spot? Truck rattles...

Here to report that everything has gone back together and is running very well. Rebuilt pump and new Denso nozzles on the injectors. We went with the upper end of factory spec on the opening pressures(right around 125 kg/cm2). Engine is smoother than ever and driveability seems to be improved...

Cable is not long enough, and there is no threaded hole on the frame nearby. This truck has two batteries. The passenger side/left side has the negative cable going to the engine block. This spot for the driver's side seems correct. Right length of the cable, correct orientation according to the...

Stuck with the 25ft/lbs. on the return collar hold downs. got it all back together, and it is running beautifully with nary a drip anywhere. (Knock on wood) Thanks for the tips.

Ended up using the bolt on the fender wall. Seemed like that was what it was there for. Cleaned it and brought it to bare metal and it fit perfectly.

Interestingly enough, this image shows the end having its own bolt, which then excludes the injection pump location. And it shows the direction pointing outward. Outward would mean it attaches to the fender, me thinks.

Hi, Putting my 1983 LN40 Diesel L engine back together. Didn't document the driver's side battery negative cable connection location. I think it might have been connected to one of the injection pump bolts, but I really don't like that idea. The the length of the cable doesn't give a whole lot...

Thanks for the tips. I was about to fire her up just now, but realized the ground strap was not connected. Connected to battery, not to ground. Now I can't remember how it was setup. I will post a new thread. I will update when I get her started.

Thanks. Super helpful. I going down to the truck today to hopefully wrap up and get her back on the road.

Hi. Reassembling the fuel system on my 2.2 liter L engine. The manual has me torquing the injector ‘holders’ to 50 ft/lbs, and the fuel pipes to the injector holders from the pump at 20 ft/lbs. But it weirdly skips the nut that holds down the return line thingie. Any suggestions on a torque...

That would be nice, as power, in the case of the L is elusive to say the least. Luckily, the truck is a pure joy to drive even at slow tractor speeds.

Thanks. I had found a weird page that mentioned something along these lines, but was uncertain of how accurate it was. I am thinking I will have them reset the injectors down to the top of the FSM specs and see how that goes.

Interesting. The thing is that the part number(22100 - 54300) matches what is specified for 1983. For laters years the second number goes up considerably.

Thanks for replying, but I am hoping you could maybe elaborate? My injectors are currently setup at around 135 kg/cm2 (~1920psi). You are saying this is the correct setup? 2200 is the max that this pump can put out? Any idea about benefits of higher or lower opening pressures?

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Hi, I have a 1983 Toyota pickup with the 2.2 liter L engine. I am curious about opening pressures for the injectors. I have sent the injectors off to be tested and rebuilt if necessary. The shops is saying that the tested pressures seem high. The Toyota manual for the L says the pressures should...

I ran some Purge through by filling the fuel filter with it when I swapped that in. Basically took a whole can of the Diesel Purge. First discovered that stuff with an 85 Mercedes 300D that I owned. Works great. The pump is a bit damp at the moment. Not dripping wet, but definitely has some...

And an update on maintenance: Additional battery has been installed Valves adjusted Timing belt replaced along with tensioner Water pump replaced Coolant replaced Top and bottom radiator hoses replaced Heater hoses replaced Intake from filter housing to manifold replaced Oil Change New Fuel...

That is most definitely on my list. I am curious about the pump. Is it super complicated to rebuild? I have a 2003 VW TDI that the pump is for highly skilled professionals only. Is this one I could pop into the shop disassemble and reassemble with new seals myself? I have the timing tool and...