Maybe if you were very gentle and rigged something that didn't damage the cam it would still need to be reground and re-hardened.
I would just buy a new camshaft of your choosing and obviously new lifters. The bores may need to be lightly honed to clean them up.
I would try to save the pushrods...
Keeping in mind that your camshaft will be replaced, after a few days of soaking the bores with Kroil see if you can rock the cam
back and forth with a pipe wrench or other leverage multiplying device. You only have to move the lifters a little to get the cam out.
Once it is out you will have...
I'm sure Phoenix/Tempe has ample options for engine machine shop services.
If you were in L.A, I would be glad to recommend, having rebuilt my '68 F recently.
All the parts you will be needing are available, try to stay as organized as possible and be realistic about your own abilities.
This is a little late but you have used your strongest material in the area requiring the least strength, i.e, the very bottom.
The beefy and no doubt expensive heavy wall tubing would make excellent struts angled from closer to the top of the column to the ground,
where they could then be tied...
Half a tank of ga$ cheaper ($45). I'll stick with the Odysseys. Known, proven brand - sort of like the subjects of this forum!
However, for those who would like to save that $45 every decade, the X2 batteries do seem to be quite similar in design. ;)
I only know what I have read about Orvis' politics in the last half hour but I would tend to give them a pass. They seem like decent folks.
I respect the company's longevity and success and appreciate their conservation efforts but I doubt anyone looks to Orvis for guidance in race relations.