a lot of the time it is a high idle that will cause the desieling (running backwards once shut off). It could also be the little plunger that gets twelve volts that is mounted on the carb. I can't remember the name of it, but it is the only thing on the carb that gets 12V.
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If you have disconnected the lines to the rear, I assume you have since you are replacing the MC, you HAVE to bleed all 4 brakes. At the beginning you said you were going with all wheel disk brakes, and it looked like on the last post that you are reusing your drum brakes. The '74 I think has...
I tried a MC around that year and it wouldn't work correctly for me. I spent a little extra and got a '95 TLC MC. It is setup for 4 wheel disks and works great.
If your MC sits level in the vehicle, I've never had to bench bleed them. The ones that sit with an up angle can get air caught...
If you know you get a good spark from the coil wire, put a real thin coat of grease on the rotor where the center post of the cap rubs on the rotor. Put the cap back and remove it. Make sure the grease is disturbed, that will tell you if the coil post is contacting the rotor.
With the cap...
One thing I would love to have is a metal stretcher and shrinker to bend some metal with, works good to shape the flange for body panels. Next thing to get though is a tubing bender, already have a commercial welder. Also a good bench press, but I want to go with a mill/lathe for those really...
one of the hardest thing about cruisers are what the PO has done. That can also cut the price down when the PO did part of the correction without doing it properly. You might be able to finish it up really easy, or this can bite you in the arse for a long time coming.
I did the SOA on mine and then didn't do the power steering until the next year. It should work fine with manual steering. I do recommend doing the power conversion, but if you can't do it now, do it later.
I had a lock-right in mine, after driving a bit it wouldn't want to unlock. Then it would release all at once with a loud bang and the whole rig doing a little wiggle. Mine did it and a buddy's in his heep. Never caused a problem and worked good.
My dad has run Delo 400 as my whole life in all of his PUs and cars. He purchased it in 55gal drums because of the construction equipment we owned. Don't know if he ran it because of it's properties, or because it is so much cheaper by the drum than anything else by the qt.
I always thought it was nice when I lived in oregon. Once I moved to NY I found out that it doesn't do a darn bit a good. I went ahead and made a secondary heater with a little ''LOT'' more power and I keep warm on the coldest days.
you can fill it with argon when welding it, that works real well. I just put the tip in the inlet with a rag, turn the wire speed to 0, then tie the trigger. Give it a minute and you should be good to go.