In total 4 were bent. Replaced the whole set to be sure.
But to no avail. Still makes the same noise. Has to be bottom end or balancer.
Other than over tightening rockers, what else causes push rods to get bent? Play in the cam shaft from worn out bearings?
Here’s the diagram that shows where the vacuum advance lines hook up to on the sniper.
That being said, I wouldn't expect this would keep it from firing. Mine runs fine without hooking up the vacuum advances line.
If you are getting fuel next check if you are still getting spark. My thought...
As an update, I tuned the valves and then check compression. All above 150 psi.
I pulled the side cover to inspect the rods and lifters. Lifters look fine but one of the push rods is a little bent.
This feels like I’m getting closer to the issue. Could this cause a tick? Any issue with...
2 of the 12 had slight scoring but nothing major. Less scoring on those than the picture of the bushing in my original post. All the others looked brand new.
That being said is it worth pulled the heading and checking the lifters?
Need help diagnosing a potential cam tick.
Its most pronounced on the passenger side of the oil pan by pistons 5 and 6.
I pulled the oil pan expecting to find pieces of bearing and didn’t find much. I pulled a couple end caps to inspect the bearings and found what I think is only minor...
Ha not much cold to speak of down here really. I did drive it a few morning when it got down below 40 and didn’t have any trouble with starting or idling. The gear box doesn’t like the cold however.
As an update, I haven’t had any issues with the sniper itself. Only issue I have run in to is...
Other items that are wired are the blue line to the positive terminal on the fuel pump. Black wire to negative on battery. Red Wire goes to positive terminal on battery.
The last one that needs to be ran is probably the trickiest. The pink wire (ignition) needs to be wired in to a clean 12V...
Wiring comes next. Its super easy to get installed with a HEI style distributor but needs a little of clean/modification to get it to look cleaner. In my experience the tach wire (yellow -) is really short to give you enough length to get the cable away from the head cover.
Not much to do...
Inside the engine bay showing the bolt hole that the throttle cable screws in to. Side note: I used the hole that was used for the OEM throttle linkage to run the Sniper touch screen cable through the fire wall.
The throttle cable loops around and mounts to the bracket on the sniper. Only...
Pedal modification took a little creativity to figure out. In short, I bent the top of the petal assembly. It was originally connected to the throttle linkage through the fire wall and the final product has the throttle cable linkage inside the cab.
OEM petal assembly
Modified petal mounted...
Not much to say about the O2 sensor. I probably mounted it a little farther back than the manual says to but I want to make sure it was mounted in a flat part of the exhaust so that the bracket didn't leak.
To the point, its probably worth mentioning that any leak from the O2 sensor to the...
Once the Sniper is mounted I ran the fuel hard lines. The key here is knowing the hard lines go behind the alternator bracket. To do so I move the alternator and pulled the bracket back from the block.
Hard line just to the right of the alternator bracket.
This FJ didnt come with the stock heat shield and spacer so I modified the adapter so that it can fit on top of the ManAFre spacer.
Finished product. The bolts have to sit flush to the adapter as the Sniper throttle body goes on top of the adapter.
Took the old Weber off this weekend and got the Sniper EFI on and it pretty unbelievable the difference it makes. Outside of an engine rebuild I don't know what else could make that big of a difference.
Here are some of the pics.
Fuel system schematic
Stock fuel lines on FJ60 are set...