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Digging up an oldie, but just wondering if you had any further dramas with the same issue occurring after this?

G'day everyone, does anyone know what would prevent the star wheel from going further down (less spring tension - rotating clockwise). I'm adjusting it to run only 15psi, but there is still some travel left before the follower pin rides up on fuel cut on the aneroid pin. However, the star wheel...

Normally you get the tell-tail 'clicking' if the starter is bad, but the OP mentioned no sound. I agree with Rosco, you need to grab a multimeter out or test light and start checking for where you are getting power.

Personally, I would do some problem solving/checking before replacing with a multimeter. If you just want to replace it, then it is probably easier to buy an EGT gauge and change the whole lot (they usually come with a new temp prob)

Hey mate, I've got a factory 14BT and can answer any questions you might have. They are a great engine for a four cylinder with plenty of torque. Actually, I think they are perfectly matched with a 40. I can drive at 110 km/h all day without any issues and up to 130 km/h, although that is...

When you say it has never worked, what do you mean? No Power? Doesn't display correctly?

Yeah, I'm definitely no expert either... I'm just doing some time trials and following fuel economy figures to find the right balance.

Yeah, but the timing specs for factory turbo and na diesels is always different and I can't find a pattern. Some turbo versions have more retarded timing (15bft for example) while others are advanced (1hdft). Pain in the arse really.

Yes, unfortunately an FSM for a 14BT doesn't exist, so I'm in the process of testing to find the best timing.

I reckon you could be right. I reinstated an internal long range fuel tank (110 litres) a while ago which hadn't been used in ages and it took a bit of cleaning. I've since put probably 5 or 6 more tanks through using my usual rear main tank, which is clean. I've got seperate Ryco fuel filters...

Personally, I think it really depends on the climate you live in. Anywhere 'tropical', I think it's completely unnecessary and the potential harm caused when they break to the pump is a risk I would'nt want to take. I saw a pump that had an ACSD failure and it's pretty shocking.

Agree with all above. I've got a 14BT which I did an ACSD delete last year. Currently, as we're coming into Winter (if you can call it that in North Queensland), I've noticed a change in starts with it wanting to idle at 600rpm at first. I simply use the hand throttle for the first 1-2 minutes...

Thanks mate... Yeah, it's got me stumped. Feels a lot more responsive like it's getting more fuel. Yeah, it's a rotary IP. Trouble is I've been tracking my fuel usage and doing some acceleration testing to find a sweet spot for IP timing, but a random improvement like this when nothing has...

Absolutely nothing at all... The only thing I can put it down to is going for a 3 hour drive on the highway. But I had also gone for other long drives since I noticed it was lacking a bit of power, but it hadn't changed anything like this.

Freshly rebuilt 14BT (including pump and injectors) about 20,000km ago. I've felt that I've had a bit of fuel starvation for a while, especially at higher revs when giving it a bit, and then all of a sudden I've got a noticeable improvement throughout the rev range including up high 2.5 to 3k...

Hey mate, have you got a website to order stuff from?

You need a timing tool bracket and a dial gauge. You can find a step-by-step guide here: https://news.dencodiesel.com/diesel-fuel-injection/technical/how-to-time-a-ve-style-fuel-pump/

A couple of other interesting points of reference before I start my little experiment... It appears that most factory turbo IP timing is actually slightly advanced from the NA versions of the same engines. I thought that they would be more retarded because of boost/peak cylinder pressures etc...

Just saw your rebuild mate, looking good...

I'm in the process of trying to figure out the best IP Timing for my 14BT in the absence of an FSM. A factory Toyota 14B is between 1.31 to 1.37, while the marinized version the Yamaha ME372sti is 1.19. I have got the process of changing the timing down to an art, so no issues there. My question...