Wow! What a pile of BS. Electronic remote/transponder/duhicky thimabobs. A buddy of mine lost his 2003 LC keys and we are now going thru this crap; secruity my ass. Altho the thread is super important; has anyone considered looking into a go-around fix. Maybe a wiring mod that...
Ref:Post#92 & my 1979-80 FJ40.
My '79 FJ40 with about 83000 miles on the meter has a totally stock ammeter. I have owned the money pit from new and the ammeter never deflected much at all. This is true this date as in 1980 as a new vehicle.
To test the ammeter I disable engine starting...
Like Steamer says; I've been using my electric for years as a vapor lock aid and fuel bowl primer. I also have installed insulation on the fuel line. However, I think its important to keep a few new manual pumps on hand - Toyota brand quality is hard to beat.
Nice find. Most important is front end maintenance. New seals and syn-grease. Rear seals as well. Next , look into DBA rotors and FJ100 pads in front, FJ80 stock in rear. 94 LC brakes are not as good as new models.
The money pit begins
My '79 will do the same thing; so here's what I have done. Install an inline electric fuel pump. Insulate the fuel line from stock pump all the way to the carb. See:
Bentley-Harris Convoshield – Protective Chrome Tubing for Hoses and Wires
This will help, but may not cure the problem...
Be thankful ur seeing what u are reading. 13.6-13-8 idle charge voltage is perfect. If the alternator is working correctly, u will see, upon starting the FZJ80, a voltage spike to ~15.5 volts - which will rapidly drop to 14.2 volts and then more slowly to 13.8. If u see a voltage of , say , 14.5...
Look into the Yaesu FTM-350R; probably the best dual band, easy to use rig out there. Yaesu is noted for crappy manuals and this one is no exception. But the rig can be run almost without the use of the manual, a first for Yeasu.