So you can either have a heavy custom flywheel made, or button it up and enjoy it. Clutch isn't causing this sound.
I had a 50lb flywheel made for mine to avoid this. It still makes some noise of course, but nowhere near what it used to make with a standard gas flywheel. Heavy flywheel makes it...
Lets check to see how it responds to the situation I described.
Fire it up at idle and with your foot off the clutch and the truck stationary (driveshafts cannot be spinning) gently push it into gear (try 4th gear) and increase the force slowly and see if the sound quiets down. Don't jam it in...
This is a sound caused by the torsional vibration of the 4 cylinder diesel engine. A heavier flywheel will calm it down a bit.
It's the sound of the mechanical backlash of the gear train when unloaded. It is likely to get worse when the gear oil heats up.
Many manufacturers use a dual mass...
You don't want to put it in the lower hose.
I'm sure there is another location that will work. Is there an oil cooler that uses engine coolant? That would normally be on the back side of the thermostat.
Poke around there has to be a spot.
I would not worry about 207. As for the location of your sender, it must be located in the loop of the engine that circulates when the thermostat is closed.
I'm not familiar with the engine you have but typically coolant circulates through the head and heater core and sometimes a portion of...
Is this a multi layer steel gasket? What do the head bolts look like? Can you mock assemble the head in block with no gasket? You can use Fuji paper to check the interface between the two under clamping.
There's about a million ways to go about this.
The block and head were decked? Or are...
Split case should be better at dissipating heat than what I've got due to the aluminum case and increase in surface area. I'm sure the standard gear set is a little happier at high speed over the 4:1 set as well. My intermediate case runs cool. It is always exactly in the middle between...
I worked with Dakota Digital and developed this gauge to communicate via CAN with my cluster. I then made the bezel to fit where I wanted it.
They make the screen for another application with its own bezel, but my application had a different footprint.
As for the transfer case, I didn't get...
The distance I am referring to is the distance the tie rod riling is outboard of the king pin. If the steering is in front of the axle it is supposed to be outboard of the kingpin to create proper ackermann steering. If the steering is behind the axle it will be inboard of the kingpin axis...
I used to know what RCV rated their axles for angle-wise, but its been a while and I don't want to spread misinformation.
As for the OEM stuff I'm really not sure on that one. Hard to get your hands on that type of data.
We'll do ~26* before:
And 0.25 on the one side nets ~3.8* more angle:
So its actually a ~2.4' reduction in radius which is huge. Definitely noticeable.
You need to check your felts hitting the shank of the knuckle ball as well. I have RCV shafts/joints and they can handle a lot more...
OK so I'm going to make a bunch of assumptions here just to get us an idea. So it looks like a 0.25* movement in the stop on rear of the knuckle the inside tire is going to get you ~1.9* more steering angle on that side.
Now Ill just assume you get 27.1* on the inside tire now with 95%...
I'm headed up to Moab the 17th and staying on BLM land. Any chance some of you guys will still be around? I'll be up for a week. Would be nice to just meet some fellow cruiserheads maybe for coffee or something if there's no time for wheeling!
Mine passed through the grommet through the floor and then had nothing on the other side. No nipple/bead for a hose even. On the other side of the floor there is nothing.
It must have been a vent or drain of some sort?