Builds 1FZ-FE Rebuild full overhaul - picture heavy (1 Viewer)

[scottryana]

Hmm email cometic that rivet doesn't look right and is going to cause an issue.

An evening of thread chasing and dry fitting. Getting ready for pistons to arrive soon. One of them is coming from Japan.

And what do we have here?

That looks like a Cometic Multi Layer Steel head gasket!

One issue though. There is a rivet in the machined area. The instructions are pretty clear that isn't acceptable.

Has anyone else seen this with the cometic? The other hold together rivets are OK.

 

[stockfj80]

Shouldn't be an issue with the rivet since part of the head doesn't go out that far. Take the gasket and place it against the head where it going to. It should stick pass the head.

 

[sbman]

I emailed them a photo and question about the rivet. I haven't un-bagged the head from the machine shop yet, I guess I should do that and check the other side. The rivet is sitting between cylinders 5 and 6 on the exhaust side.

 

[bicycleagent003]

The dizzy o-ring isn't that important. The rest of your build is so clean, omitting that o-ring shouldn't make a difference. Just run it.

 

[sbman]

Vibratory cleaning. I started with these:

And after an overnight run in a harbor freight vibratory cleaner:

Looking at that pic, I just realized one of the parts that came out of there is part of the vibratory cleaner. hahaha. The hollow tube is part of it, I wondered where that came from!

 

[sbman]

I'm trying to do as much OEM replacement of things as I can afford, and where it makes sense. If I can buy a Denso part or an Aisin part that is the same as OEM at a significant savings I will. When I bought this truck, it barely ran. It had 0 compression in cylinder 6 and smoked like crazy. Had chocolate milk oil. I drove it 300 feet to make sure it shifted and went in/out of Low range and then pulled the engine and tranny. So I have to check and service everything I touch because I don't know it's history or what problems it had. That leads me to this:

The left hose is a failed hose with cracks at both ends, and it cracked in the middle when I pulled it off. It's an OEM vacuum hose attached to a tee that supplies vacuum to a couple of VCVs. The middle one is a molded fuel line that had also failed. The end had become so hard that it was no longer sealing on the PCV system it was attached to. The third is a 1.5" long fuel line.

So I've tried to go OEM, but these three hoses are about $12/ea to replace OEM, even from good sources. I stopped asking about other small hoses after these three. Now I understand it was a $50K truck and the parts are made with unicorn horn dust and diamonds, but still, $12 for a 1.5" piece of fuel line seems excessive, and the lines that actually failed did not seem to be up to the standard of the other OEM hoses in the truck anyways. I still didn't want to go to Pep Boys and get some standard size lines to replace them with. So after researching I settled on hoses from these guys for the silly expensive ones:

So some black silicone hoses, in metric sizes for replacing uber expensive failed OEM vacuum hoses. I'm using Mr. T stuff for all the small 3.5mm stuff. Maybe the non oem ones will rot off before I get to the end of my driveway, but I'm going to give 'em a go. Also found metric fuel line at the same place for about $8 / meter. Not complaining, just showing what I've done for better or worse.

 

[blkprj80]

You're okay with the rivet in the HG. Mine has it as well, and no problems. The head doesn't hang over that area.
Also, did you clean out those passages between the cylinders? The holes that go side to side at about a 45 degree angle. Mine were plugged with gunk.
And I was surprised at how much s*** was still in the crank passageways after a good cleaning. I made a brass tube with the end at 90 degrees so it could blow sideways. All sorts of junk came out.
Your build looks great! Keep up the good work!!

 

[NLXTACY]

An evening of thread chasing and dry fitting. Getting ready for pistons to arrive soon. One of them is coming from Japan.

And what do we have here?

That looks like a Cometic Multi Layer Steel head gasket!

One issue though. There is a rivet in the machined area. The instructions are pretty clear that isn't acceptable.

Has anyone else seen this with the cometic? The other hold together rivets are OK.

Didn't have that issue myself.

 

[blkprj80]

Pics of tool to blow sideways through crank oil passageways:

Cut a piece of brass tubing so you can bend it 90 degrees, solder it and file it until it fits into the oil passages.

 

[sn22]

I did this cleaning method on the block as well. I also used a long pipe cleaner looking bristle brush inside the crank holes and lots of black carbon and residue came out. On my block deck service the holes between the bores were so clogged with OEM gasket material I had to use a drill bit to clean them out! Also make sure the machine shop cleaned out the oil galleys in the block as well. Make sure your surface finish on the block and head are a 50 Ra or finer as the MLS head gaskets like a smooth surface. Nice score on the oil pump bushings too!

 

[NLXTACY]

I should have taken a picture of the little tool that Martin Davidson made. Its very similar to the 90º blowgun but its got a small steel brush on the end as well.

 

[sbman]

It's time to get serious here and start building this motor. Everything has been measured and checked, all the parts I thought I needed have been ordered and arrived. First up, load those new OEM .5 over pistons with rings. The machine shop resized the bushings for the wrist pins and heated the pistons to set them up for me. The original 'safety auto' pistons I had and returned did not require heating for installation. The Toyota pins are sized for engine temp expansion.

The rings are installed per FSM procedure. Lots of cleaning of everything. Cleaned all of the bearings and final installation.

All six took a couple of hours.

The OEM pistons are much higher quality than the aftermarket set I had. An obvious difference in fit and finish and the casting is cleaner overall. The machine work is pretty much perfect, I did not find a single nick, gouge or scratch.

 

[sbman]

Now it's time to clean the block and install the bearings. Cleaning the block took a couple of hours. Lots of passages to clean out, and a lot of surface area. Bearings installed.

I've also installed the piston oil jets onto the oil galley. The attention to detail and little features like this really set the Landcruiser engine apart from your typical light truck engine.

 

[sbman]

Now, clean the crankshaft. That takes an hour to really get it clean.

Slather up the bearings with assembly lube and set it in place. Don't drop it, it's heavy.

Slather more assembly lube on the caps and install them with the FSM procedure for torquing them down.

It's amazing after all that torquing down, the crank turns so nice and easy!

 

[sbman]

Pistons go in next.

Tighten all the caps per the FSM procedure.

 

[sbman]

 

[sbman]

Time to get the timing cover on. Gears first

Oil orifice, more gears and a nice new chain.

 

[sbman]

Tie it up per the FSM.

The two small silver plugs are not available from Toyota. They are 'non serviceable'. The machine shop had removed them for block cleaning and we used U.S. made replacements.

 

[sbman]

Now. Now you find out how far you can get by ordering everything you think you need. So I ordered the oem 'rebuild kit'. Plus some stuff the @cDan said was not included. Then I read through @concretejungle build thread and found his list of things that weren't included and I ordered those. Then I tried to do dry/test fits of things to make sure I had it all. So, go to install the timing cover and two o-rings are not included in any of the above. The main water and oil passages into the timing cover have o-rings and I don't have them. To local toyota dealer tomorrow morning first thing and order them up. So that's it for now. 10 hours straight wrenching, seems like it wasn't that much, but it takes a lot of time, especially all the cleaning. And the double checking. And triple checking!

 

[sbman]

You're okay with the rivet in the HG. Mine has it as well, and no problems. The head doesn't hang over that area.
Also, did you clean out those passages between the cylinders? The holes that go side to side at about a 45 degree angle. Mine were plugged with gunk.

Yep, hours of cleaning. The 45 degree holes in the front two cylinders were clogged. The rear four were OK. Really small passages for coolant. Good to know on the rivet. Cometic never bothered to answer my question which is kinda crappy customer service for a $200+ head gasket.