- Thread starter
- #61
Awesome. If you have time can you share details of the sensor install (measurements, hole sizes etc,etc). I want to do it, but will have to wait till after I get back rom Colorado
Rear ARB Bumper With Swing Outs Install Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TJsTACOMA
- Start date
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Awesome. If you have time can you share details of the sensor install (measurements, hole sizes etc,etc). I want to do it, but will have to wait till after I get back rom Colorado
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
I eyeballed it! 
As to the hole size, I just used a hole saw and a round file to get the exact fit. The middle sensor on the passenger side is actually installed upside down (on purpose), because the latch mechanism in the tire carrier would not allow the sensor to be installed in the correct orientation.
I'll take some photos later and post them so you can see what I mean.
I will say that the little plastic sensor covers have to be ground to fit into a round hole.
As to the hole size, I just used a hole saw and a round file to get the exact fit. The middle sensor on the passenger side is actually installed upside down (on purpose), because the latch mechanism in the tire carrier would not allow the sensor to be installed in the correct orientation.
I'll take some photos later and post them so you can see what I mean.
I will say that the little plastic sensor covers have to be ground to fit into a round hole.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
What does the tail light converter do???
I am having a hell of a time wiring my rear carrier, and I think it might solve my problems! Can you enlighten me, someone?
The tail light converter takes an intended combined-circuit and splits it for an independent. Normal two elelment bulb (compound) trailer circuits carry the turn signal and brake signal combined on the same wire. This box allows you to light exactly what you want to light when you want to light it.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
I guess I need to order one then. I've been trying to figure out wiring for the last 4 hours.
Now I know my problem.
Now I know my problem.
@TJsTACOMA used the ARB wiring but we ran all new. I think there is some opportunity there for things to be correct for Australia but not for US trucks? Theoretically the ARB lights could work without the converter because they are dual element.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
I got mine installed today!
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
Cross posted this in another thread:
Also, to everyone with the ARB swing outs:
The latch mechanisms SUCK! You can make them much better though, and here's how:
Remove the latch mechanism from the carrier (the little mechanism with the black rubberized handle). Remove the two hex bolts that hold the two halves together. You now can access the two parts we are going to modify; the part with the rubberized handle and the part that the handle is attached to (via a zinc coated spring). Study the contact areas of the two parts, and notice now rough the contact surfaces are (stamped steel). Use a lapping wheel on an angle grinder, and carefully remove all of the bumps where the two come into contact (do this for both of the parts). Also use the grinder to carefully take off just the tip of the corner of the sear too. Now use fine sandpaper to go over the areas you have just hit with the grinder, and sand until you get a smooth surface (I used 600 grit sand paper). Now coat all contact points with a liberal coating of all weather, low temperature grease (I used Royal Purple). Also grease the two hex bolts that the latch pivots on. Reassemble.
The latch is now much easier to unlatch; the initial force required to unlock the mechanism is much less, and much smoother.
I know pics would be much more useful, but I didn't take any when I did mine.
Also, to everyone with the ARB swing outs:
The latch mechanisms SUCK! You can make them much better though, and here's how:
Remove the latch mechanism from the carrier (the little mechanism with the black rubberized handle). Remove the two hex bolts that hold the two halves together. You now can access the two parts we are going to modify; the part with the rubberized handle and the part that the handle is attached to (via a zinc coated spring). Study the contact areas of the two parts, and notice now rough the contact surfaces are (stamped steel). Use a lapping wheel on an angle grinder, and carefully remove all of the bumps where the two come into contact (do this for both of the parts). Also use the grinder to carefully take off just the tip of the corner of the sear too. Now use fine sandpaper to go over the areas you have just hit with the grinder, and sand until you get a smooth surface (I used 600 grit sand paper). Now coat all contact points with a liberal coating of all weather, low temperature grease (I used Royal Purple). Also grease the two hex bolts that the latch pivots on. Reassemble.
The latch is now much easier to unlatch; the initial force required to unlock the mechanism is much less, and much smoother.
I know pics would be much more useful, but I didn't take any when I did mine.
Canyonero
Beating up Land Cruisers since 2015
@MScruiser - does your suggested fix make the swing out easier to latch? You mention it's easier to unlatch, but not to latch. On mine latching the tire swing out requires a lot of force, perfectly directed.
- Thread starter
- #73
My issues come from the black end pieces fitting very tight causing me to have to slam hard for them to latch. My latches release fine.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
It makes both latching and unlatching nearly effortless. Before, I had to slam it shut; now it's much gentler.
Buy a used bumper?
We (Cruiser Outfitters) definitely have used paper copies from various installs but likely have a digital version too.
I did and thank you for the offer. Ended up emailing ARB and they shot me over a PDF almost instantly.
Cool, glad you have it sorted.
I suppose I could look this up myself, but does anyone have the weight comparison between the ARB and some of the custom shop offerings? Looks like the ARB may be a few lbs less?
marketShark
Spider 2 Y Banana
@OregonLC
I guess it all depends on the swing outs you use L and R, or if you just use the blanks for the rear ARB. I'd imagine the weight difference is nominal before you start mounting 33"+ tires/ jerry cans, etc. Maybe you can find weight by part number online somewhere.
the front bumpers show weight figures for shipping and mounting, etc.
I guess it all depends on the swing outs you use L and R, or if you just use the blanks for the rear ARB. I'd imagine the weight difference is nominal before you start mounting 33"+ tires/ jerry cans, etc. Maybe you can find weight by part number online somewhere.
the front bumpers show weight figures for shipping and mounting, etc.
