FJ40/2F carby; rich idle. (1 Viewer)

[Usernametaken]

So I have recently acquired an FJ40 with a 2F of unknown origin (FJ60 I believe).
It's running very rich and it doesn't matter what I do with the idle mixture screw, nothing much changes unless I really wind it in and then the revs drop marginally. I don't want to crank it in too far for fear of damaging the seat if it isn't already.
Also, there is a whistling sound coming from the carb, almost like a vacuum leak but I can't locate it, is this normal?
A few pictures.

Also, a couple of spare carbs I was given with the car.

Any suggestions guys?

 

[unklwedy]

Try overhauling carby. You might have a carb built up from several different years, with the wrong air correction jets.

 

[Usernametaken]

Can anyone ID the carby? Will any old 2F carby fit?

 

[GA Architect]

My carb whistled at certain RPM's, and that was some-what embarrassing driving in town. I just told my son, the rig is whistling at all the pretty ladies! He didn't buy it and just said, "sure thing Dad".....Replaced both the carb base gasket & plenum gasket , now silence.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

whistling = intake leak = bad air fuel ratio = hard to tune. gaskets below the carb and between the head and manifolds needs to be replaced most likely. also, the idle speed screw in too far over rides the mixture screw. start with finding and fixing the intake leak by spraying short blasts of carb cleaner here and there where you think you hear the whistle- trick is to shoot a blast and wait for a couple of seconds to see if the idle changes(not up or down necissarily, but changed from before) a change in idle would be due to something besides air and gas coming thru the carb being introduced to the combustion process> this spot where you sprayed and waited and then heard a change in idle is where your leak is. fix. then do a base line tune on the carb before rebuilding carb; you might be lucky; you might have to rebuild carb. they aren't hard, but you need to pay attention. search the lean drop method for carb tuning. seat the mix screw(gently) and back out about 3 full turns; back idle speed screw off all the way( if it's in too far, the throttle plate will be open far enough to not care about the mixture screw setting.....don't forget to set timing as well while dialing in the carb> it is a package deal.....

 

[Pin_Head]

How do you know it is runnng rich? It is hard to know without a wide band oxygen sensor. You can't smell it. You can smell hydrocarbons from misfiring due to lean mixture.
If the idle mix screw has no effect and you can't stall it by turning it all the way in, then you likely have an intake manifold vacuum leak and you have turned up the idle speed to compensate.

 

[Fast Eddy]

The carby on the left is between a '75 Federal and a '77. The one on the right is '78 or newer. They have date codes that can be decoded.

http://www.sor.com/cat042d.sor

 

[Usernametaken]

Cheers guys, I have raised the idle so that makes a lot of sense and I kinda figured the whistle was a leak somewhere.
Luckily it appears to be coming from the carby side so hopefully I won't need to pull the manifold.
And how do I know it's running rich? The smell and the black smoke from the exhaust is a pretty good indicator

 

[edwjmcgrath]

You could have a couple of things going on. I'd check the glass window and see that the fuel level in the bowl is in the middle. If it's overfull, it could be that you've got a leaky needle/seat. After that, I'd find the vacuum leak that's causing the whistle by spraying with carb cleaner or the like and then fix it.
Then start with the idle mixture screw 1 1/2-2 turns out from bottomed out and set the idle speed to get in the rough area.
Then follow the manual to set them both properly

Don't ignore what Pinhead is telling you. He's forgotten more about carbs than most of us know.

 

[Usernametaken]

You guys are awesome.

 

[Usernametaken]

So took her for a blast down the beach today. When she gets up to temperature, she whistles like crazy and lean pops and farts back through the carby, won't rev like the vac advance tube isn't connected and generally loses all power. Definitely a nasty vacuum leak somewhere.
Also, lost the gauges as well, no fuel or temperature gauge.

 

[Pin_Head]

Running rich makes carbon monoxide which is colorless and odorless.
Misfiring makes black smoke and stinks of gasoline. It is possible to run so rich that it misfires, but this is very unusual and you would notice something like gasoline pouring out of the carby vent tubes.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Sounds like you have so many problems that it's not really possible to start to narrow them down. You need a couple weekends to baseline your engine, new gaskets, hoses and probably a carb rebuild. Get a vacuum gauge and some carb spray to find the leaks. Get a timing light. Change the oil and get a new cap, rotor, plugs, wires and air cleaner. Adjust the valves.

Once you spend time with it, you'll be familiar enough so you can start diagnosing and fixing whatever problems remain.

 

[Usernametaken]

Yeah, I'm suspecting there are a multitude of things at play here.
Considering the car hasn't been driven in 6 years, the motor in goodness knows how long and it's all new to me, I'm surprised it runs at all

 

[Usernametaken]

Can I just make a manometer as a vacuum gauge?

 

[sheepdawg]

FWIW. I have a wide band o2 sensor and my carb was just rebuilt by Mark Algazy, the LC wizard, and it runs rich most of the time. I asked Mark about that and he said it is common. I have no issues and it runs great as is. Much better than before my rebuild.

 

[Usernametaken]

Inlet manifold tab has been broken off and welded back on, it's not mating up properly and it's leaking, plus the bolts holding it on were a bit loose.
Tightened the bolts and I can now get the engine to die by playing with the idle mixture screw. Result!
I actually ordered a manifold gasket last night as I didn't like the look of the RTV gooped around the current one and was going to swap it anyway and I have a spare inlet/exhaust manifold ready to go on.
I might sandblast and paint it beforehand though just for the hell of it.

 

[Usernametaken]

Are these actually any good?
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...yota-engine-Landcruiser/900778_371449359.html

 

[sggoat]

Are these actually any good?
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...yota-engine-Landcruiser/900778_371449359.html

Those are very$$ and of questionable application

What are the numbers on your carb? it's hard to see, but I think they read 21100-61123. Is that correct?
You can certainly use a manometer for a vac gauge--just make sure it will handle up to 25" of Hg.
Sounds to me like a good carb rebuild is in order(once you find and fix the vac leaks)

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Unless you've got a stash of mercury, it would take a column of about 30' of water to make a serviceable manometer.
Anything is possible, but it's kind of silly since you can buy a vac gauge for under $20 here.
When you've got a problem like yours, I recommend fixing one thing at a time. If you change 6 things and it doesn't work anymore, you won't know what you messed up. I'd fix the vac leak, adjust the carb, check and adjust the timing, and if it's still running poorly check back in.
The guy selling that carb doesn't even guarantee that it will fit a 2f.
If it were me, I'd look into rebuilding the one that you have IF you do the other things and it still isn't running right.