The easy low cost....FJ62 LSPV removal (1 Viewer)

[Bomar]

I am starting this thread to show a super easy way to remove the LSPV system from your 62...

Items needed:

- 10 MM flare nut wrench

- elbow brake line union (got mine from the front of a FJ60 parts truck) (1st picture)

- 1 brake bleeder (got it from a 2nd 4Runner in junk yard) (1st pic)

NOTE: Alot of people add a brake prop valve but I have done a few and not used one yet so if you want one use it....if not then you will be good also.

On the lspv there are 3 brake lines. You will join the rear line (goes to rear brakes) As the line come off the frame rail the middle line is the return line that you will disconnect and leave. (2nd photo) The other 2 lines will be joined with a union. (3rd photo)

In the front passenger wheelwell you will find the brake unions for the truck. The one closest to the front of the truck will have 3 lines coming out of it. Disconnect the rear line that points towards the motor that is where you place the brake bleeder. (4th photo)

Bleed brakes and clean up mess and you will have a lot firmer brakes.

 

[Bomar]

Photos...

 

[Bomar]

As you can see in the photos. I used the brake union part from a FJ60. So pick one up from a part out or Georg.

There are a lot of ways to make this better but this is cheap, fast, and dirty way of doing it.

 

[klinetime574]

So you're effectively making the rear brakes stronger (i.e. more force applied to them under braking) by removing the LSPV correct?

 

[TS888]

So you're effectively making the rear brakes stronger (i.e. more force applied to them under braking) by removing the LSPV correct?

Yes, more or less. With the LSPV in place, the braking force is biased to the front brakes when unloaded or lightly loaded (thus Load Sensing Proportioning Valve). Take it out, and the rears work at full capacity all the time.

The tradeoff is an increase in the chance of rear wheel lockup. Otherwise known as 60 brakes...

 

[klinetime574]

Yes, more or less. With the LSPV in place, the braking force is biased to the front brakes when unloaded or lightly loaded (thus Load Sensing Proportioning Valve). Take it out, and the rears work at full capacity all the time.

The tradeoff is an increase in the chance of rear wheel lockup. Otherwise known as 60 brakes...

Ah yes. I've locked up my rears before on a wet road. Luckily no one was around. I almost turned 90 degrees while moving down the road

Good for me I must have been a race driver in a past life. I corrected and came to a perfect stop at the light

 

[billmc]

Yes, more or less. With the LSPV in place, the braking force is biased to the front brakes when unloaded or lightly loaded (thus Load Sensing Proportioning Valve). Take it out, and the rears work at full capacity all the time.

The tradeoff is an increase in the chance of rear wheel lockup. Otherwise known as 60 brakes...

The LSPV can and should be adjusted to give proper braking in the rear, which is often lost when a lift is added. By deleting the LSPV, you lose its most important feature, which is the reduction in rear braking strength during panic stops to prevent loss of crucial traction in the rear. So if you can, you should adjust it rather than remove it.

 

[Bomar]

The LSPV can and should be adjusted to give proper braking in the rear, which is often lost when a lift is added. By deleting the LSPV, you lose its most important feature, which is the reduction in rear braking strength during panic stops to prevent loss of crucial traction in the rear. So if you can, you should adjust it rather than remove it.

Yes....but I had adjusted mine about 10 different ways and nothing changed but this way did.

 

[billmc]

Yes....but I had adjusted mine about 10 different ways and nothing changed but this way did.

If you have a lift and you put a spacer to compensate, and still couldn't get it adjusted then maybe it was shot. That's why I said "If you can". I just didn't want people to think that it's a trivial choice to delete it, cause when it's needed it's really needed, like kilnetime574 said.

Bill

 

[Bomar]

I guess you can lock up the rear brakes but I would rather lock them up (which has never happened) than not stop at all.

I drove a muscle car with drum brakes at all four wheels...so this is not an issue. I guess I am old school.

Just trying to make it easier for cruiser heads to get a better braking system...and yes I have 4 runner calipers in front and bigger master to match and this is a way better mod.

 

[billmc]

I have the opposite problem. I've always been able to lock my rears up doing 25 on dry pavement. I guess mine's out adjustment the other way.

 

[klinetime574]

Well braking force is mostly all in the fronts so your weight will lean towards the front of the car. The rear of the vehicle may actually lift thus causing rear tire lock-up.

 

[billmc]

Well braking force is mostly all in the fronts so your weight will lean towards the front of the car. The rear of the vehicle may actually lift thus causing rear tire lock-up.

yes, that's exactly what the lspv is designed to counteract

 

[ntsqd]

I made this for my Mini so that I can adjust it down when the shell is off.

 

[RESQU]

I am not sure if my LSPV is functioning valve? With the rod disconected how much valve movement should you be able to feel when moving the rod through range of motion? Why is the spacer a better option then taking some of the bend out of the rod?