I just replaced my window runs and found that the Max Ellery repair manual was helpful for the front window but not even close on the rear, so I thought I would put this together for anyone else having any issues with this or thinking about it. Please feel free to comment on it. I have incorporated comments and suggestions that can be found elsewhere on forum and have tried to source them but if I missed some please do not take offense I am not trying to take credit, rather I am trying to collate some of the material into one thread.
First off the part numbers for the rubber window channel or run should be as follows for the these units FJ80, HDJ80/81, HZJ80, FZJ80. Double check before ordering.
Front Door Right Hand side - 68141-60010
Front Door Left Hand side - 68151-60010
Rear Door Right Hand side - 68142-60011
Rear Door Left Hand side - 68152-60011
As for pricing I was able to pick these up for $59 for each front one and $51 for each rear one. Plus shipping. All funds are in US dollars.
So on to replacement for the front
Parts of this were extracted from Semlins post which can be found here https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=30580. I have removed the parts not related to the window run.
1. Lower the window until the top of the glass is parallel with the bottom of the window opening. pop off the black triangle plastic trim piece in the front corner of the windshield. Pressure point is from up high and it will pop out with mild pressure if you can slide the leverage in an inch. Removing this piece makes it much easier to remove and reinstall the door upholstery panel.
2. remove the screw holding the door opener trim piece and remove that trim piece, Don't forget to do this!
3. pop the leather armrest off and the panel holding the door controls (lever it from the front). Unplug the control harness. Undo the two phillips screws concealed by the armrest and the third screw up where the loop on the door handle meets the door. Now you can remove the door skin. Take a plastic scraper and apply gentle pressure starting in the bottom rear to pop the plastic popper fittings. Apply direct pressure as close to each popper as you can so you don't tear the poppers from the trim. There are only poppers around the three edges so any resistance from the middle means you missed a screw. When they are all free, lift the door skin up and off.
4. There is a black box in the bottom left hand of the door. Unscrew the two bolts attaching it to the door. Now you are free to pull away the plastic door liner about half way up the door . Try not to tear it. You will want to seal it up completely again afterwards.
5. The window glass sits on a metal rail that is attached by two 10mm bolts to the regulator. You may need to reattach the control harness to use the motor to line up this rail with the lower access holes so you can get a socket on them to remove them. Once the bolts are undone, carefully lift and thread the window up and through the opening.
6. once the window is out, take a look at how well it is seated in the rubber and metal sleeves at the bottom. If it loose, turn the window over on a piece of cardboard and tap on the metal sleeve with a big plastic screw driver handle until it is properly seated. I am not 100% sure where the rail is supposed to be on the window base. Based on the FSM drawing and the marks on my window it looks like one end should be just before the point where the bottom of the window starts to curve upwards.
7. Now you want to pull out the old glass run. reach into the back of the door and grab the little tail of exceess rubber stretching out below the metal guide. Yank. It should peel away easily all the way up and the whole glass run should come out easily. There may be a weird plastic fitting on the front angle of the door that comes out. I don't know what this is but I found it easy to replace when I put the new glass run in.
8. Now use some soapy water to clean out the glass run channel and all the metal you have just exposed in the door and then fit the new glass run starting near the upper rear corner. It is quite easy once you get started. Make sure that the corner is properly seated (compare to you passenger door if unsure, but is should look nice and square) and also make sure that the piece of reinforced glass run fits where the angle changes on the front. I sprayed silicone lube inside the glass run before I installed it.
9. Thread the window back in, make sure it is seated front and back in the glass run and tighten the two screws starting with the one on the right.
10. Double check everything and then raise the window. stop about an inch from the top. The FSM says that the top glass should be parallel to the top rubber all the way along using the vertical run of the black glass as your measurement angle. I found that if you are out of adjustment then when you close it all the way the window seats at the back first and then keeps rising a little to seat at the front. You can adjust this by loosing the two screws on the regulator adjustment bar and then moving the left one on the slide up and down and tightening it first then the right bolt. The first time I thought I had it the window popped out of the glass run when I lowered it so this is trickier than it looks. I ended up using both the FSM test and also checking to see that the rear glass was still seated fully into the rear glass run when the window was lowered to only protrude a half inch.
11. Try the window several times before you reassemble which is the reverse of what you did above. Use water proof sealing tape to close up the plastic seal and do a thorough job or the hardboard backing at the bottom of the door liner will get soaked. Take care to line up the individual poppers with their holes before pushing them in and be careful not to cover any of those holes with sealing tape. If you pulled any of the popper door clips out of the cardboard when removing the door so that they have no bite anymore, try sliding the sealing tape under the fins of the poppers to give you some resistance.
I think Semlin's post on the front windows is very good and should get most of you through the process.
Now the Rear window
I did not think this was possible given what I read in the Max Ellery Manual but convincing from CJF and Jonheld made me try it and it worked as they said.
1) Roll your window all the way down (I did not have to remove any door panel trim or the window, if you want to remove the door panel trim you may be able to clean your channels better, depending upon how dirty they are)
2) Pull the window channel out of the top and side of the run where the window is no longer touching, once this portion of the rubber run is out, you will need to go to each side of the window (one at a time) and pull up on the run so that it slides up pulling out of the window. Do this procedure on both sides and the run should come free
3) do your best to clean out the run with soapy water
4) reinstall in the reverse order that you removed the run. There are suggestions posted below on ways to make installation easier. Installation may take some playing around and when you are close to getting the sides slid all the way down, but can't quite get it the rest of the way I found that you can run the window up a little ways and then while pushing on the rubber run, run the window back down and it will assist in getting the run down to the bottom. It is often easiest to start by putting the top corner of the run in first so that you know how far down you need to go. If you are unable to get the channel all the way down with this method you may need to pull the door panel off to be able to get inside and assist the process with your hands or see what the problem is. Follow instructions for the front door to remove the panel on the rear door.
SUGGESTIONS FOR MAKING REINSTALL EASIER
1)Spray the rubber channel with silicone prior to install
2)Soak the rubber channel in hot soapy water
SUGGESTIONS FOR EXTENDING THE LIFE OF EXISTING RUNS
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=16839
1) Spray silicone on the existing channel
2) use grease
3) use hot soapy water
4) use tool oil
I hope this helps, please feel free to add to this post. Thanks again to all those who gave me advice during my install.
puddles
First off the part numbers for the rubber window channel or run should be as follows for the these units FJ80, HDJ80/81, HZJ80, FZJ80. Double check before ordering.
Front Door Right Hand side - 68141-60010
Front Door Left Hand side - 68151-60010
Rear Door Right Hand side - 68142-60011
Rear Door Left Hand side - 68152-60011
As for pricing I was able to pick these up for $59 for each front one and $51 for each rear one. Plus shipping. All funds are in US dollars.
So on to replacement for the front
Parts of this were extracted from Semlins post which can be found here https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=30580. I have removed the parts not related to the window run.
1. Lower the window until the top of the glass is parallel with the bottom of the window opening. pop off the black triangle plastic trim piece in the front corner of the windshield. Pressure point is from up high and it will pop out with mild pressure if you can slide the leverage in an inch. Removing this piece makes it much easier to remove and reinstall the door upholstery panel.
2. remove the screw holding the door opener trim piece and remove that trim piece, Don't forget to do this!
3. pop the leather armrest off and the panel holding the door controls (lever it from the front). Unplug the control harness. Undo the two phillips screws concealed by the armrest and the third screw up where the loop on the door handle meets the door. Now you can remove the door skin. Take a plastic scraper and apply gentle pressure starting in the bottom rear to pop the plastic popper fittings. Apply direct pressure as close to each popper as you can so you don't tear the poppers from the trim. There are only poppers around the three edges so any resistance from the middle means you missed a screw. When they are all free, lift the door skin up and off.
4. There is a black box in the bottom left hand of the door. Unscrew the two bolts attaching it to the door. Now you are free to pull away the plastic door liner about half way up the door . Try not to tear it. You will want to seal it up completely again afterwards.
5. The window glass sits on a metal rail that is attached by two 10mm bolts to the regulator. You may need to reattach the control harness to use the motor to line up this rail with the lower access holes so you can get a socket on them to remove them. Once the bolts are undone, carefully lift and thread the window up and through the opening.
6. once the window is out, take a look at how well it is seated in the rubber and metal sleeves at the bottom. If it loose, turn the window over on a piece of cardboard and tap on the metal sleeve with a big plastic screw driver handle until it is properly seated. I am not 100% sure where the rail is supposed to be on the window base. Based on the FSM drawing and the marks on my window it looks like one end should be just before the point where the bottom of the window starts to curve upwards.
7. Now you want to pull out the old glass run. reach into the back of the door and grab the little tail of exceess rubber stretching out below the metal guide. Yank. It should peel away easily all the way up and the whole glass run should come out easily. There may be a weird plastic fitting on the front angle of the door that comes out. I don't know what this is but I found it easy to replace when I put the new glass run in.
8. Now use some soapy water to clean out the glass run channel and all the metal you have just exposed in the door and then fit the new glass run starting near the upper rear corner. It is quite easy once you get started. Make sure that the corner is properly seated (compare to you passenger door if unsure, but is should look nice and square) and also make sure that the piece of reinforced glass run fits where the angle changes on the front. I sprayed silicone lube inside the glass run before I installed it.
9. Thread the window back in, make sure it is seated front and back in the glass run and tighten the two screws starting with the one on the right.
10. Double check everything and then raise the window. stop about an inch from the top. The FSM says that the top glass should be parallel to the top rubber all the way along using the vertical run of the black glass as your measurement angle. I found that if you are out of adjustment then when you close it all the way the window seats at the back first and then keeps rising a little to seat at the front. You can adjust this by loosing the two screws on the regulator adjustment bar and then moving the left one on the slide up and down and tightening it first then the right bolt. The first time I thought I had it the window popped out of the glass run when I lowered it so this is trickier than it looks. I ended up using both the FSM test and also checking to see that the rear glass was still seated fully into the rear glass run when the window was lowered to only protrude a half inch.
11. Try the window several times before you reassemble which is the reverse of what you did above. Use water proof sealing tape to close up the plastic seal and do a thorough job or the hardboard backing at the bottom of the door liner will get soaked. Take care to line up the individual poppers with their holes before pushing them in and be careful not to cover any of those holes with sealing tape. If you pulled any of the popper door clips out of the cardboard when removing the door so that they have no bite anymore, try sliding the sealing tape under the fins of the poppers to give you some resistance.
I think Semlin's post on the front windows is very good and should get most of you through the process.
Now the Rear window
I did not think this was possible given what I read in the Max Ellery Manual but convincing from CJF and Jonheld made me try it and it worked as they said.
1) Roll your window all the way down (I did not have to remove any door panel trim or the window, if you want to remove the door panel trim you may be able to clean your channels better, depending upon how dirty they are)
2) Pull the window channel out of the top and side of the run where the window is no longer touching, once this portion of the rubber run is out, you will need to go to each side of the window (one at a time) and pull up on the run so that it slides up pulling out of the window. Do this procedure on both sides and the run should come free
3) do your best to clean out the run with soapy water
4) reinstall in the reverse order that you removed the run. There are suggestions posted below on ways to make installation easier. Installation may take some playing around and when you are close to getting the sides slid all the way down, but can't quite get it the rest of the way I found that you can run the window up a little ways and then while pushing on the rubber run, run the window back down and it will assist in getting the run down to the bottom. It is often easiest to start by putting the top corner of the run in first so that you know how far down you need to go. If you are unable to get the channel all the way down with this method you may need to pull the door panel off to be able to get inside and assist the process with your hands or see what the problem is. Follow instructions for the front door to remove the panel on the rear door.
SUGGESTIONS FOR MAKING REINSTALL EASIER
1)Spray the rubber channel with silicone prior to install
2)Soak the rubber channel in hot soapy water
SUGGESTIONS FOR EXTENDING THE LIFE OF EXISTING RUNS
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=16839
1) Spray silicone on the existing channel
2) use grease
3) use hot soapy water
4) use tool oil
I hope this helps, please feel free to add to this post. Thanks again to all those who gave me advice during my install.
puddles
