Best replacement radiator for the money today... (8 Viewers)

[Buddysuede]

Someone posted another thread about their mshimoto blowing off hoses- due in part to higher pressure system and in part to lubing the inlet/outlet with dielectric ( not good) - the Mishimoto cap was a 19psi cap. I noticed that the CSF aluminum posted above is a 20psi cap. OEM is a 16psi cap. Not sure how the increased system pressure may affect anything but it if the system was designed for 16psi- does 19 or 20psi impact gaskets, fittings, other smaller hoses through the throttle body-head gaskets ? Higher PSI cap will increase boiling point of a closed system, but is it worth it? Does it matter if the CSF need runs a 20psi or 16psi cap? I would run the OEM cap on the CSF and measure running temps against OEM radiator.

@abuck99 That's a nice observation. I wonder what CSF or Toyota would say about the additional stress on the other components in the cooling system in reference to the 100 series?
I was also interested in how much that actually effects boiling temps.

 

[abuck99]

@Buddysuede I read somewhere that for every psi increase at the cap you add 3 degrees Fahrenheit to the boiling point- so Factory is 16psi, Mshimoto 19psi cap = +9degreesF to boiling point and a 18% increase in tank pressure, CSF 20psi cap = +12degF to boiling point and a 25% increase in tank pressure. Pretty close to your chart for 50/50 premix.

I have no idea how or if coolant system pressure at (for example) head cooling passages, or water pump or the small coolant lines like oil cooler or throttle body is impacted by increased radiator tank pressure-

 

[Escape Artist]

@abuck99 is the system immediately under pressure, or does it climb relative to temp? I’m curious, and trying to study up on this aluminum option as I’m considering it when I do the first timing belt change on my truck and all the associated things that need to be replaced.

Perhaps the AL can handle slightly more pressure at high temps thus the 20 psi cap? I don’t know but I would be curious to see how it would perform with an OEM cap … I am on the fence and would like to learn more about the longevity of AL radiators over OEM if they are built well. CSF is big in the Porsche world (where OEM radiators are already aluminum) but didn’t know they did anything for cruisers.

 

[Buddysuede]

@abuck99 So after your astute radiator cap psi observation on the CSF I started to pay more attention to the system and sure enough saw this. After running the engine around town temp was at 190.4. I didn't see it ever go any higher than that during the trip but I did see a rather large bulge in upper radiator hose while under pressure. I did not replace the upper radiator hose when I replaced the radiator. Luckily, I replaced every other one but that one, so the rest look good. So perhaps it's old and tired or perhaps the 20psi of that system is exposing weaknesses in the cooling system and you are correct. Thanks for the observation, was most likely headed for a busted hose down the road somewhere.

Either way, I'm replacing that hose and switching the radiator cap to OEM.

 

[abuck99]

That hose is no bueno

 

[yj668]

That worm clamp is no bueno as well.

 

[Buddysuede]

I'll replace the clamp as well - not sure when that got put on there.

 

[plainjanefjc]

@abuck99 So after your astute radiator cap psi observation on the CSF I started to pay more attention to the system and sure enough saw this. After running the engine around town temp was at 190.4. I didn't see it ever go any higher than that during the trip but I did see a rather large bulge in upper radiator hose while under pressure. I did not replace the upper radiator hose when I replaced the radiator. Luckily, I replaced every other one but that one, so the rest look good. So perhaps it's old and tired or perhaps the 20psi of that system is exposing weaknesses in the cooling system and you are correct. Thanks for the observation, was most likely headed for a busted hose down the road somewhere.

Either way, I'm replacing that hose and switching the radiator cap to OEM.
View attachment 3283011View attachment 3283012

Is the blue painted pulley a certain brand? I noticed that on mine and figured it was a cheap aftermarket part.

 

[Buddysuede]

@plainjanefjc The blue part is the fan clutch base. I just replaced this with this radiator. Fan clutch is 100% OEM Toyota Part 1621050051.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Bump on this existing thread, I have a 2006 LX on 33s , I am leaning towards Denso Radiator part number 221-3152. I called my local Las Vegas Toyota dealer this morning and guy quoted me $950+ OTD which I find way overpriced, or is that the going rate these days for an OEM radiator?
So looked for a better alternative and used the part numbers you all shared here, I came across this: Denso Products 221-3152 Denso Radiators | Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dnp-221-3152. First time to order online from Summit, any good/not so good experience from them? Thanks

 

[Rhetoric]

Bell Lexus or Marietta Toyota will have a better price shipped to you. Marietta shipped mine and it arrived flawless.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Bell Lexus or Marietta Toyota will have a better price shipped to you. Marietta shipped mine and it arrived flawless.

You are spot on Bell Lexus in AZ. Thanks for the recommendation.

 

[Buddysuede]

@OEMGUY0720 The link you shared from Summit has it at $250...heck, even Amazon has it for 160. Why would you pay $531 for it?

 

[OEMGUY0720]

@OEMGUY0720 The link you shared from Summit has it at $250...heck, even Amazon has it for 160. Why would you pay $531 for it?

I want to avoid doing the swap again after 2-3 years because of a failed radiator not to mention the potential damage in the event it fails (atf mixing with coolant, overheat and warped head, etc) so I am weighing in options. Of course OEM is the best in terms of longevity and reliability. All of us are trying to save a buck, and a $531 price for an OEM radiator is definitely better than my local dealership price of $950+.

 

[Rhetoric]

I want to avoid doing the swap again after 2-3 years because of a failed radiator not to mention the potential damage in the event it fails (atf mixing with coolant, overheat and warped head, etc) so I am weighing in options. Of course OEM is the best in terms of longevity and reliability. All of us are trying to save a buck, and a $531 price for an OEM radiator is definitely better than my local dealership price of $950+.

My local dealership prices arent quite as bad as yours but they are up there! I priced one 80 miles away and it was in the 550 range before tax. But didn’t feel like spending half a day driving.

 

[woodwateradv]

Hello

New guy here. Will the LC OEM radiator fit the LX? I recently acquired a clean '00 LX from AZ but don't know the maintenance history and would like to get all the major maintenance done before winter. I know both vehicles are essentially the same but with the slightly different front end is the LC and LX radiator interchangeable?

Thanks

 

[Buddysuede]

@woodwateradv Yes, exactly the same.

 

[yngmrostrvile]

Still rockin the koyo with zero issues.

+5k some trail exploring. Already spent my savings over OEM on fuel.

just to update....going to have to recommend AVOIDING the KOYORAD.
I had to finally replace alternator yesterday after months of intermittent battery lamp illumination and low output. I chose the route of removing fan and shroud to remove through top incase there were issues with connector. I purchased a used alternator from bone yard and rebuilt with new bearings, regulator and brushes.
I noticed red crusty along the seam of the top tank and core. Purchased 03/16/21, installed within the month of receiving I beleive at same time I replaced bearing in ac comp pulley. 15-20K mi on it. 9 mo out of warranty.
If I expect to make it to 500k thats another 13 KOYOs or $2600 not including time and coolant.

 

[OwnerCS]

I am a proponent of using distilled water ONLY (no municipal water etc.), and have seen several discussions on here about this issue (and I know that @2001LC is a proponent as well) but I haven't seen any mention of what I consider to be the biggest problem with the use of tap water: electrolysis in the cooling system. Distilled water will conduct *much* less electricity than will municipal water (which contains dissolved salts etc.), and older engines are more likely to have corroded electrical paths that impedes the return of current via the battery ground.

I'm convinced that (as an example) head gasket issues in the 2.5l Subaru engines are due to electrolysis, and it seems that Subaru engineers thought so as well because my wife's '13 Legacy has about fifteen ground straps from the engine to the chassis.

While I don't hear about this particular problem with the 2UZ-FE motors (there may be different current ground paths that prevents this issue from happening inside this particular engine), electrolysis is a possible threat to the longevity of any motor, and tap water permits the problem.

Curious to hear if anyone has any experience with electrolysis, in any vehicle. It's not something that most techs look for, that's for sure.

I found some pitting from electrolysis on a 5VZFE. The engine had 75,000 from Florida. I don't know if the previous owner did not use distilled water. Florida water is known to be hard. The metal lower intake manifold gasket had developed rust around the water ports.

 

[Dave JR]

Out of curiosity, does anyone know the ATF volume the OE radiator holds inside it?