- Thread starter
- #241
Thanks. I assume that’s a later model with the pass through at that location?
Builds 1969 FJ40 Father / Son Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter royal cake
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #242
So today I tackled getting my harmonic balancer on. I was able to lock up the clutch assemble against the frame to torque it.
- Thread starter
- #243
but now when I mock up my alternator using my F engine brackets, and the old pulley, it looks like I’m still a bit off on alignment. Is there another pulley meant for this that I’m not aware of? I’m assuming I can use the F brackets setup on this 2F.
- Thread starter
- #244
When I put the old spacer on the new alternator it looks like it’s pretty close now.
- Thread starter
- #246
Thanks yeah I’m going to put everything on now and see how far off I am. It looks much better
- Thread starter
- #247
So I’m guessing I should use my F motor water pump? This new guy looks like it would line up to an outer pulley position on the crank if I had one.
- Thread starter
- #248
So rather that coming up with a different pulley I went with the older style water pump. Everything seems to line up well; turned a spacer for the alternator.
Got a nice used distributed from @65swb45 and attempting to install per
forum.ih8mud.com
So is there any way to know I’m on the compression stroke without taking the valve cover off? Also when I drop in the dizzy per instructions it doesn’t look like I’m pointing towards cylinder 4 as much as they show.
Got a nice used distributed from @65swb45 and attempting to install per
2F Timing
Hey guys, just got a question, does anyone know on a 2F motor when timing the distributor, at TDC where the rotor should be facing exactly?...Should it be facing #1 dead on or just before? I'm not sure which position the gear should be in. I just bought the FJ60 last week and the distributor has...
forum.ih8mud.com
So is there any way to know I’m on the compression stroke without taking the valve cover off? Also when I drop in the dizzy per instructions it doesn’t look like I’m pointing towards cylinder 4 as much as they show.
- Thread starter
- #249
Talking with a friend of mine I should be able to use the compression gauge. Going to give that a shot.
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,389
- Messages
- 35,226
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
With the oil filter in that location everything needs to be clocked 60 degrees. #1 will be basically pointing right at the block, or a little bit past.
And if this is an initial break in, I would clock it even more, so I could bump up the timing while the rings are seating.
And if this is an initial break in, I would clock it even more, so I could bump up the timing while the rings are seating.
firemanj92
SILVER Star
Pull #1 spark plug, stick a long handle screw driver or wooden dowel in, rotate crank (by hand) until it pops up before it sinks again. #1 is TDC.So rather that coming up with a different pulley I went with the older style water pump. Everything seems to line up well; turned a spacer for the alternator.
Got a nice used distributed from @65swb45 and attempting to install per
2F Timing
Hey guys, just got a question, does anyone know on a 2F motor when timing the distributor, at TDC where the rotor should be facing exactly?...Should it be facing #1 dead on or just before? I'm not sure which position the gear should be in. I just bought the FJ60 last week and the distributor has...
So is there any way to know I’m on the compression stroke without taking the valve cover off? Also when I drop in the dizzy per instructions it doesn’t look like I’m pointing towards cylinder 4 as much as they show.
View attachment 3338945View attachment 3338946
- Thread starter
- #252
Thanks guys. Good idea about rotating to get the vacuum advance to clear.
As far as TDC though doesn’t it have to be on the compression stroke though?
As far as TDC though doesn’t it have to be on the compression stroke though?
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Yes, it needs to be on the compression stroke. Pull 1 plug, you can bump starter in short clicks, you'll hear air being forced out. Align the timing mark on the fly wheel. Or turn engine by hand with finger over number 1 hole. Or pull all the plugs put the vehicle in 3rd ot 4th gear and push the vehicle and have a finger over #1 plug hole till air is forced out. Align timing marks.
- Thread starter
- #254
Thanks! I didn’t think about placing a finger over the hole. I was able to use my compression gauge to verify. I got a suspiciously low pressure so I hope I was doing something wrong. Haha
RodrigzCrzr
SILVER Star
I used one of these on the #1 spark plug spun too TDC and blew it out. Knew it was at TDC.
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,389
- Messages
- 35,226
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
Why do you have an aversion to taking off the valve cover? Personally, I think seeing the rockers dribbling is the most effective way of knowing the distributor is properly seated.
- Thread starter
- #257
Good point- non other than thinking I’d unnecessarily create a leak. But now I’m bothered by barely registering compression numbers. But the motor was test run prior so could be something I’m missing
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,389
- Messages
- 35,226
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
Pulling the VC also allows you to recheck head bolt torque before you fire.
- Thread starter
- #259
I like it.
- Thread starter
- #260
I thought I'd throw this out as I didn't find any similar threads in my search...
Looking at the fuel tank installation, it seems to be isolated from the chassis - pads top and bottom, rubber fuel lines, and rubber gasket under the fuel sender. Seems like a tank should be grounded not build up a charge. I guess now that I think about it, the sender conducts through the screws to the tank, so there is a path there.
Maybe I'm over thinking it and that path is good enough.
Looking at the fuel tank installation, it seems to be isolated from the chassis - pads top and bottom, rubber fuel lines, and rubber gasket under the fuel sender. Seems like a tank should be grounded not build up a charge. I guess now that I think about it, the sender conducts through the screws to the tank, so there is a path there.
Maybe I'm over thinking it and that path is good enough.
