You just need the time & space. No special tools required and if you follow the instructions step by step it should go smoothly. It’s just messy and time-consuming.
How To: Replace your own steering rack (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter ENGINE er
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Completed mine last week. Took my time and followed the instructions with good results. Retained original hoses and connectors. Used the parts list outlined earlier and replaced all recommended fasteners including TRE jamb nuts. Kept my steering wheel centered and the new rack also had the center-point identified. Jacking engine allowed removal/replacement of the rack while centered. My original threadcounts on the TRE's was P:9/D:11. On test-drive, I found the steering wheel was off about 30 degrees to P side. At P:10/D:10, the steering wheel is straight. Final step is alignment and assure the shop (Lexus?) torques both TRE's to spec. Thanks for the great writeup.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
I'm going to need to buy motor mounts in addition to the rack huh? I mean why wouldn't I replace the original motor mounts when I have the engine jacked up? This is going to be a $1,000 DIY to solve a few drips of ATF from the boot.
At 225k miles- I found my DS inner TRE had work itself loose independent of the locking tab washer- so the threads had some play-point being if you’re over 200k miles there’s more worn than just the seals.
I’ll be replacing my rack in the next few weeks- this thread has been a great resource to study before the final.
I’ll be replacing my rack in the next few weeks- this thread has been a great resource to study before the final.
I have read this weighty Tome from end to end and it has truly been a life saver. From lifting the engine trick to centering the rack etc. Mine , being a HDJ100 with the IHD-T fe is a little different, in that there is more room to move things around. No oil filter housing, different fan shroud and more room to disconnect the column.
My rack had a couple stiff spots while turning, very minor but still there, then the fluid was a little low. first time since I owner her (2018) So I did a full flush using toyota ATF (yes, the expensive stuff since I had 2 gal sitting around) A week later the pass. side oil seal failed spectacularly, spewing oil everywhere.. So the question is, could the Toyota ATF caused this? Is it not ok to use this oil?
My rack had a couple stiff spots while turning, very minor but still there, then the fluid was a little low. first time since I owner her (2018) So I did a full flush using toyota ATF (yes, the expensive stuff since I had 2 gal sitting around) A week later the pass. side oil seal failed spectacularly, spewing oil everywhere.. So the question is, could the Toyota ATF caused this? Is it not ok to use this oil?
BIG Thanks to contributors on the thread for dialing in the procedure to do this project. It took me the weekend to complete- hit some roadblocks along the way.
I wanted to point out a torque value error in my 2005 FSM it shows two different torque values for the outer tie rod where it mounts to the knuckle.
The Steering section of the FSM image indicates 53ft lbs. The Suspension & Axle section of the FSM calls for 90 ftlbs. Big variance. Wanted to confirm that it is 90ft lbs confirmed in the Specifications section.
I wanted to point out a torque value error in my 2005 FSM it shows two different torque values for the outer tie rod where it mounts to the knuckle.
The Steering section of the FSM image indicates 53ft lbs. The Suspension & Axle section of the FSM calls for 90 ftlbs. Big variance. Wanted to confirm that it is 90ft lbs confirmed in the Specifications section.
Good catch!
BTW: What does 05 FSM show for vane pump torque?
I know it should show 13ft-lbf. in all location.
SR-47 in the 05 manual calls for 13ft lbs for all 3 bolts
So I did a full flush using toyota ATF (yes, the expensive stuff since I had 2 gal sitting around) A week later the pass. side oil seal failed spectacularly, spewing oil everywhere.. So the question is, could the Toyota ATF caused this? Is it not ok to use this oil?
@ticoman - Did you use a new/rebuilt Toyota-brand rack, or a generic/off-brand one? WS is slightly thinner (lower viscosity) than Dexron III, which is normally specified for PS racks. Not sure if WS by itself could cause a rack to fail in that manner. It sounds like you get to do the job over again, right?
@ticoman - Did you use a new/rebuilt Toyota-brand rack, or a generic/off-brand one? WS is slightly thinner (lower viscosity) than Dexron III, which is normally specified for PS racks. Not sure if WS by itself could cause a rack to fail in that manner. It sounds like you get to do the job over again, right?
Which toyota fluid WS?
I doubt change in fluid would kill a seal but anything is possible. WS is a lower viscosity than the typical dex 2.
More likely the clean fluid dissolved some crud from the reservoir or in the system somewhere that got hung up in the seal- a seal that was prob ready to fail.
I doubt change in fluid would kill a seal but anything is possible. WS is a lower viscosity than the typical dex 2.
More likely the clean fluid dissolved some crud from the reservoir or in the system somewhere that got hung up in the seal- a seal that was prob ready to fail.
The rig has always been maintained by the dealership here, so I thought that the rack would have been OEM, but when I pulled it out and inspected it, it was a rebuild. There were witness marks on all the nuts and chisel marks on the big nuts. Sad state of affairs that a dealership would resort to a rebuild. I replaced it with a new toyota rack
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
They seem to offer Toyota remans on many of the big parts (CVs, steering rack etc) I suspect that's because if they quoted a repair with the new OEM parts the customer might walk away. If they offer a "Toyota reman" it's easier to sell to the customer. Just a guess though.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
It appears the AT-205 is working. Took a little while but I haven’t seen any drips and have taken it on some decently long drives. Fingers crossed!
True, but this was no Toyota reman, The nuts were all rounded off or had chisel marks, like they did not have the right size wrenches..I understood that toyota did not sell oem seals for the racks, so obviously chinese seals etc
Standing on the shoulders of the giants on I8MUD, I have replaced the steering rack on a HDJ100 (that's an LC100 an 1HD-FTE diesel engine). My truck was built in 2004, so it has the newer design: no right hand grommet but bolts and nuts L and R to hold the rack in place:
Also, in this newer design, the "return tube" is a small piece of pipe with a clamped rubber hose, not the 'hard' line described frequently. I took the hose off, attached another hose leading to a waste container and started turning the wheel lock-to-lock. (And I noticed the wheel was off-center to begin with, which explained why the number of threads on the rack ends were not the same.) Turning the wheel will get half of the (old, black) ATF out (about 0.5 litres). The rest comes out of the reservoir, the pump and the lines while disassembling. I cleaned the reservoir and the lines. Next, I have centered the steering wheel and loosely attached it to the brake pedal using a piece of rope (the point was that I did not want the wheel to be able to turn too far with the rack out, leading to sprial cable trouble).
I could not remove the "no. 2 intermediate shaft assembly", nor the LH "tie rod end", nor the small pipe for the "return tube" (picture below is not accurate - that is the old design). I was able to slide the yoke a bit higher up the steering shaft, so I decided to remove the rack with stuck parts still attached.
I have loosened BOTH L/R engine supports and jacked the engine about 5 cm (2"), using the engine-gearbox joint as a lift point with a block of wood. This way, the jack was not in my way and I did not risk pushing the oil pan in. The 1HD-FTE has no problems with the shroud of the fan while lifted. With a bit of man-handling, the steering rack came out, parts still attached. Rust dissolver, a 2 kilogram hammer, a blow torch, patience and having the thing in a vise enabled me to remove the intermediate shaft and the pipe for the return line. Glad I decided to NOT try that under the vehicle. I have new tie rod ends, so I left the old one on the to-be-disposed rack.
The new rack (PartSouq, about US$1800, including tie rod ends and lock nuts) does NOT go in without lifting the engine again, whatever the FSM says, and I really tried. After loosely fitting the bolts, I measured the length from the end of the "rack end" to where the rubber boot attaches to the housing and made sure I centered the rack (distance was 275 mm both sides).
The sliding yoke in the steering column can be mounted in only one position, but while cleaned and lubricated, it can be slid up with ease, allowing the intermediate shaft to be positioned over the steering rack. After centering the steering wheel once again and attaching the intermediate shaft temporarily (installing the screw so it could not detach, making me loose position), I undid the rope on the steering wheel and turned lock-to-lock. From the center I get 360° plus about 225° turns either way (about 1⅔ turns, measured using masking tape on the 12 o-clock position of the centered wheel).
The gasket for the pressure feed (picture above) is a bit special and I could not find it; I replaced that with two new copper gaskets. I torqued everything up, but did not attach the ATF return line hoses. I plugged the tube coming from the reservoir and attached the tube-and-waste container to the small steering rack return pipe. After filling the reservoir with Dextron III, I turned lock-to-lock a few times, while keeping the container filled. I 'spilled' about 0.5 litre of good ATF, but I had no more gurgling sounds and I feel the same resistance in every angle of the steering wheel. (I did not want to start the engine to avoid having the power steering pump run 'dry'.) I used about 1,5 litres (quarts) of ATF for the whole procedure.
Next, I'll be putting the front differential (part of another project) back in and the rest back on. I'll update after the test ride, later this week!
Also, in this newer design, the "return tube" is a small piece of pipe with a clamped rubber hose, not the 'hard' line described frequently. I took the hose off, attached another hose leading to a waste container and started turning the wheel lock-to-lock. (And I noticed the wheel was off-center to begin with, which explained why the number of threads on the rack ends were not the same.) Turning the wheel will get half of the (old, black) ATF out (about 0.5 litres). The rest comes out of the reservoir, the pump and the lines while disassembling. I cleaned the reservoir and the lines. Next, I have centered the steering wheel and loosely attached it to the brake pedal using a piece of rope (the point was that I did not want the wheel to be able to turn too far with the rack out, leading to sprial cable trouble).
I could not remove the "no. 2 intermediate shaft assembly", nor the LH "tie rod end", nor the small pipe for the "return tube" (picture below is not accurate - that is the old design). I was able to slide the yoke a bit higher up the steering shaft, so I decided to remove the rack with stuck parts still attached.
I have loosened BOTH L/R engine supports and jacked the engine about 5 cm (2"), using the engine-gearbox joint as a lift point with a block of wood. This way, the jack was not in my way and I did not risk pushing the oil pan in. The 1HD-FTE has no problems with the shroud of the fan while lifted. With a bit of man-handling, the steering rack came out, parts still attached. Rust dissolver, a 2 kilogram hammer, a blow torch, patience and having the thing in a vise enabled me to remove the intermediate shaft and the pipe for the return line. Glad I decided to NOT try that under the vehicle. I have new tie rod ends, so I left the old one on the to-be-disposed rack.
The new rack (PartSouq, about US$1800, including tie rod ends and lock nuts) does NOT go in without lifting the engine again, whatever the FSM says, and I really tried. After loosely fitting the bolts, I measured the length from the end of the "rack end" to where the rubber boot attaches to the housing and made sure I centered the rack (distance was 275 mm both sides).
The sliding yoke in the steering column can be mounted in only one position, but while cleaned and lubricated, it can be slid up with ease, allowing the intermediate shaft to be positioned over the steering rack. After centering the steering wheel once again and attaching the intermediate shaft temporarily (installing the screw so it could not detach, making me loose position), I undid the rope on the steering wheel and turned lock-to-lock. From the center I get 360° plus about 225° turns either way (about 1⅔ turns, measured using masking tape on the 12 o-clock position of the centered wheel).
The gasket for the pressure feed (picture above) is a bit special and I could not find it; I replaced that with two new copper gaskets. I torqued everything up, but did not attach the ATF return line hoses. I plugged the tube coming from the reservoir and attached the tube-and-waste container to the small steering rack return pipe. After filling the reservoir with Dextron III, I turned lock-to-lock a few times, while keeping the container filled. I 'spilled' about 0.5 litre of good ATF, but I had no more gurgling sounds and I feel the same resistance in every angle of the steering wheel. (I did not want to start the engine to avoid having the power steering pump run 'dry'.) I used about 1,5 litres (quarts) of ATF for the whole procedure.
Next, I'll be putting the front differential (part of another project) back in and the rest back on. I'll update after the test ride, later this week!
So today I had my new-to-me 2005 LX470 inspected by local Toyo/Lexus specialist shop. I told them to look into vibration at 35mph, seemingly coming from driver's side. I also said the steering wheel feels a little more loose/less precise than my '03 LC100 feels.
I also told them last service visit to dealership (recorded on Lexus.com) had reported outer tie rod being an issue. There was no evidence it had been addressed.
That was recorded at about 165k miles. It now has 179k miles.
Here's what my tech wrote in his report...
Everything I'm reading on this site indicates the rack is supposed to move. So I'm wondering whether this means this particular tech didn't know what he was talking about / doesn't have adequate experience diagnosing 100 series steering racks, and if maybe I should ask for a different tech to diagnose?
I also told them last service visit to dealership (recorded on Lexus.com) had reported outer tie rod being an issue. There was no evidence it had been addressed.
That was recorded at about 165k miles. It now has 179k miles.
Here's what my tech wrote in his report...
Everything I'm reading on this site indicates the rack is supposed to move. So I'm wondering whether this means this particular tech didn't know what he was talking about / doesn't have adequate experience diagnosing 100 series steering racks, and if maybe I should ask for a different tech to diagnose?
Rack bushings can be replaced easily without replacing the rack. Worn bushings would cause the rack to move more than normal causing play in the steering even if all other components are tight.
Just replaced the rack this past week. Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. Lifting the engine was a must but dont forget to loosen the fan shroud. Got the old rack disconnected from the column by wrapping a large crowbar around and giving some hefty yanks.
FWIW, the vibration wound up being due to worn wheel bearings on the passenger side.
Finally got the new rack in and the passenger wheel is significantly toe-in. Not sure I could even drive it to a shop. The driver side wheel seems pretty close to 0. This is only my second post and I am definitely NOT an expert...but I've done a fair number of repairs on various vehicles over the years. This one is definitely about to push me over the edge.
