Hi y'all,
Figured I'd share some lessons learned on disconnecting the CV axle "the easy way" and re-visit some previously discussed CV stuff.
I was leaking gear oil out of the passenger side diff, so I went in to replace the diff seal. I followed the advice of "chowcares" on YouTube in the following video . For a number of reasons, I should not have followed this advice. Yanking it out by the knuckle from what I experienced is a bad way to remove the diff side of the CV. For me, this resulted in the CV axle disconnecting itself by the diff side, with the bearing assembly slipping by the larger ring in the tulip (pic below).
Lesson learned on that one. I then removed the whole axle and being unable to get it to go back. I tried sledging it with wood blocks but ultimately took the diff side boot off, removing bearings, taking out ring, putting the bearing assembly back in, putting the ring back over and securing the boot clamp. Unfortunately, while reinstalling, for whatever reason it disconnected again. Then the boot slipped off and all the bearings fell on the floor. Least to say I was enfuriated lol.
Since that axle was f'd I put in an old one that leaks some grease that I keep around as a trail spare. But this leads me to what is best to replace it with.
The CV axles I used were the "reman" ones from the dealership. I've looked around and realized that it seemed like the "reman" thing was a bit of a lie and they're not "OEM". However, I'm not sure if this has changed since some of those posts? When I put my axles (still have the old OEM ones) side by side, I cannot tell the difference. I suppose the boots could be different and that may be harder to tell. But the "reman" ones still have the six bearings (pic of boot off below) that I belive previous posts said they did not. Does anyone know if Toyota changed this and the remans are actually "OEM" now? I could be missing something.
If something changed, it seems like they might not be as bad of an option considering the cost difference. But I get why people like new OEM. The 3rd option to me it seems is CVJ, but I've seen a few posts on here that the quality is not as good. Has anyone had an experience with them lately? I live in AK, to have things shipped here and send the cores back is expensive. Whatever I get, I'd rather it be the best for wheeling, which still seems like OEM. But I'm not sure if anyone has had any differing experiences as of late.
Figured I'd share some lessons learned on disconnecting the CV axle "the easy way" and re-visit some previously discussed CV stuff.
I was leaking gear oil out of the passenger side diff, so I went in to replace the diff seal. I followed the advice of "chowcares" on YouTube in the following video . For a number of reasons, I should not have followed this advice. Yanking it out by the knuckle from what I experienced is a bad way to remove the diff side of the CV. For me, this resulted in the CV axle disconnecting itself by the diff side, with the bearing assembly slipping by the larger ring in the tulip (pic below).
Lesson learned on that one. I then removed the whole axle and being unable to get it to go back. I tried sledging it with wood blocks but ultimately took the diff side boot off, removing bearings, taking out ring, putting the bearing assembly back in, putting the ring back over and securing the boot clamp. Unfortunately, while reinstalling, for whatever reason it disconnected again. Then the boot slipped off and all the bearings fell on the floor. Least to say I was enfuriated lol.
Since that axle was f'd I put in an old one that leaks some grease that I keep around as a trail spare. But this leads me to what is best to replace it with.
The CV axles I used were the "reman" ones from the dealership. I've looked around and realized that it seemed like the "reman" thing was a bit of a lie and they're not "OEM". However, I'm not sure if this has changed since some of those posts? When I put my axles (still have the old OEM ones) side by side, I cannot tell the difference. I suppose the boots could be different and that may be harder to tell. But the "reman" ones still have the six bearings (pic of boot off below) that I belive previous posts said they did not. Does anyone know if Toyota changed this and the remans are actually "OEM" now? I could be missing something.
If something changed, it seems like they might not be as bad of an option considering the cost difference. But I get why people like new OEM. The 3rd option to me it seems is CVJ, but I've seen a few posts on here that the quality is not as good. Has anyone had an experience with them lately? I live in AK, to have things shipped here and send the cores back is expensive. Whatever I get, I'd rather it be the best for wheeling, which still seems like OEM. But I'm not sure if anyone has had any differing experiences as of late.
