the 50,000-mile headlight and grille refurb... is getting old (1 Viewer)

[Manhattan]

I mean, at least I'm getting efficient at it. The rattle cans are labeled "100 Grille" and I don't even have to think about the process - tape, 1000, 1500, polish, clear.

But this time was a bit more work. The 2K clear coat held up for a couple years - longer than any other coating, e.g., the McGuires headlight stuff, ceramic coatings, etc. This pic shows how the lenses were fading and yellowing... You can see where the clear coat is and was. The "more work" I referred to was getting the old clear off.

EDIT: It's worth noting that the 100 lives outside in Atlanta's near tropical sun. I'm sure that speeds the fading and failure rate of the clear by a factor of 5x.

I dropped down to (gulp) 400 grit after seeing that 100 and even 600 wasn't doing it... or at least fast enough. So, this time it was: 400-600-1000-1500-2000-polish-clear. I probably could've skipped the 1500.

It was ugly for a while. I figure I have another few efforts before I wear through the plastic and have to buy new headlights

The grille got the typical refresh - light sand, tape, respray.

I'm on the fence regarding the 2K clear. It does last longer. But it makes redoing the lenses a LOT more work.

 

[Couvi]

Looks good! I need to do this to our first gen Sequoia - I’m somewhat spoiled by my 2004 LC’s glass headlights — they still look brand new after almost 20 years.

 

[Manhattan]

...my 2004 LC’s glass headlights — they still look brand new after almost 20 years.

yeah... I'm not so sure the 2006/07's updated headlights are much of an upgrade. I'll take glass over plastic any day.

 

[Kabanstva]

yeah... I'm not so sure the 2006/07's updated headlights are much of an upgrade. I'll take glass over plastic any day.

Buy some PPF and install it over the headlights after you re-clear them. Guaranteed to keep them looking fresh for 5+ years.

 

[Manhattan]

@Kabanstva I was thinking about PPF (somewhere between the 4th and 5th levels of wet sanding) and wondered about removal when it finally fails. How hard is it to get old, baked PPF off?

 

[Kabanstva]

@Kabanstva I was thinking about PPF (somewhere between the 4th and 5th levels of wet sanding) and wondered about removal when it finally fails. How hard is it to get old, baked PPF off?

It’s super easy. Just use a heatgun or even hair drier. You don’t even need to re-clear the lenses. The PPF is basically your clearcoat/UV layer.

Suntek is the easiest to remove if you’re concerned about that. Xpel has stronger glue (harder to remove). And 3M has the hardest curing adhesive.

We’ve done hundreds of light restorations at my work. Just sand the old clear off completely, sand up to 1,000, compound them with a wool pad until you remove all sanding scratches, hit the lens with your favorite finish polish and throw the PPF on there. 100 series lights are super flat, literally anyone can wrap them. I think Weathertech and Xpel evem sells pre cut kits but with those you’ll usually have a small 1/8” gap, if you want to have full coverage you can buy a small sheet of film and custom cut them and wrap the edges if you want to get crazy with it.

 

[Manhattan]

@Kabanstva you're right - Weathertech has a pre-cut kit. Now, I have to decide if my time (factoring my lack of skill in this category) is worth the extra cost for their kit. Yeah... that should be easy math!

Thanks!

 

[newbielx470]

Has anyone tried this method of using compound? Is this a reliable method (protecting for a long time and not causing long term damage to the headlight cover)?

 

[Manhattan]

If the lenses are lightly faded and haven't been clear coated, that will definitely work. I'd probably take a slightly different tact than the video - start with a cutting compound and pad then a swirl/scratch remover, then finish with a polish - basically, using the machine three times. I'm not sure how the same compound and pad removed the oxidized material AND left a clear lens. Also, don't lean in that hard on the buffer. wow.

 

[FSAuto]

I mean, at least I'm getting efficient at it. The rattle cans are labeled "100 Grille" and I don't even have to think about the process - tape, 1000, 1500, polish, clear.

But this time was a bit more work. The 2K clear coat held up for a couple years - longer than any other coating, e.g., the McGuires headlight stuff, ceramic coatings, etc. This pic shows how the lenses were fading and yellowing... You can see where the clear coat is and was. The "more work" I referred to was getting the old clear off.

EDIT: It's worth noting that the 100 lives outside in Atlanta's near tropical sun. I'm sure that speeds the fading and failure rate of the clear by a factor of 5x.
View attachment 3335704

I dropped down to (gulp) 400 grit after seeing that 100 and even 600 wasn't doing it... or at least fast enough. So, this time it was: 400-600-1000-1500-2000-polish-clear. I probably could've skipped the 1500.
View attachment 3335706

It was ugly for a while. I figure I have another few efforts before I wear through the plastic and have to buy new headlights
View attachment 3335708

The grille got the typical refresh - light sand, tape, respray.
View attachment 3335711

I'm on the fence regarding the 2K clear. It does last longer. But it makes redoing the lenses a LOT more work.

What color/paint did you use for the grille? I plasti-dipped mine but it's coming off pretty heavily.

 

[southburg]

I'll second the PPF. I've used it on Porsche headlights for years. Recently renewed the plastic on a 2003 model and the headlights looked like they were brand new when it came off. It was 3M so it took time to remove, but I also did not use heat. Next time I will.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Nicely done. The 2k will definitely make it durable and preserve it longer in that clean looking state. Another option after spraying it with 2k clear is an aftermarket headlight lens cover.

 

[abuck99]

It’s super easy. Just use a heatgun or even hair drier. You don’t even need to re-clear the lenses. The PPF is basically your clearcoat/UV layer.

Suntek is the easiest to remove if you’re concerned about that. Xpel has stronger glue (harder to remove). And 3M has the hardest curing adhesive.

We’ve done hundreds of light restorations at my work. Just sand the old clear off completely, sand up to 1,000, compound them with a wool pad until you remove all sanding scratches, hit the lens with your favorite finish polish and throw the PPF on there. 100 series lights are super flat, literally anyone can wrap them. I think Weathertech and Xpel evem sells pre cut kits but with those you’ll usually have a small 1/8” gap, if you want to have full coverage you can buy a small sheet of film and custom cut them and wrap the edges if you want to get crazy with it.

Xpel used to have a great product- but no more- original product circa 2015-18) was was near 1 mm thick which rocks would bounce off of, the new stuff about .20- not worth the $.

Weathertec has precut kits and quite thick, not a thick as original xpel but currently the best option for the $.

Fwiw- the xpel ive got installed for 7 years and hasnt yellowed or diminished.

 

[Kabanstva]

Xpel used to have a great product- but no more- original product circa 2015-18) was was near 1 mm thick which rocks would bounce off of, the new stuff about .20- not worth the $.

Weathertec has precut kits and quite thick, not a thick as original xpel but currently the best option for the $.

Fwiw- the xpel ive got installed for 7 years and hasnt yellowed or diminished.

That’s true. I install Xpel. Used Suntek for several years before going Xpel and what you’re saying is sadly true about the product.

 

[Manhattan]

What color/paint did you use for the grille? I plasti-dipped mine but it's coming off pretty heavily.

Rustoleum "Metallic"... just "Metallic". Strange. I can't find any other color name - no "gun metal", "charcoal", etc. So, here's a pic with a black background for contrast. I can get the batch number if that'd help.