What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (71 Viewers)

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And then some stubborn parts like the 19 year old return line fitting that freezes up and you twist the return line until it looks like a piece for licorice. At the steering rack the return line fitting was frozen to the end of the tubing- nothing to do but embrace the sinking feeling that you're going to replace more parts.

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A few years ago I bought the Sunsong High pressure & low pressure replacement lines 3403598 Rock Auto- $95 vs OEM at several hundred $$$. So I had the replacement sitting in wait just in case. If you've read my other posts, you may know that I am an ardent OEM parts user but in some cases "better" vs "best" is a narrow window and you weigh the cost benefit. The SunSong lines fit fine, and they dont leak (yet) so I'll carry on.

Ha, I just went through this exact scenario last weekend with my new to me Tundra. I should have been more careful with the pressure lines but didn't think that the replacement cost was gonna be $451! Luckily I've got a local contact with lots of good used parts, he sold me everything from the reservoir to the rack for $90 and totally saved my hide. I'll be waaaay more careful with my LC when its time comes.
 
Just switched from 35's to 33's since I needed a new set of tires. Went from Nitto Grapplers to KO2's. Sits a little lower but the daily driving feels a lot better and no rubbing so far! The 35's needed replaced due to dry rot.
 
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New radio with CarPlay!
 
Well i finally got off my butt and replaced the stock halos on these aftermarket LX headlights. Bought some switchbacks off Amazon and wired them up. The DRL are wired to the side markers but I’m thinking maybe wire it to and ignition on fuse so they truly can be DRL. These halls incorporate some sort of voltage regulating box, i just tapped into the turn signals in the bumper and it worked fine no hyper flashing.
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The internals of these aftermarket headlights are something else
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I replaced driver's side rotor and installed KOYO kit with the races, inner and outer wheel bearings. I used TIMKEN grease. I cut the large race and followed the method of using the old race to punch in the new one. On the other side I had a perfect race driver to fit that one. I was pretty filthy and exhausted after the one side, so I plan on doing the other side tomorrow, which does not include a rotor swap, so will be easier.

This was my first time doing the procedure. I followed some REALLY helpful guys on YouTube who take you through step by step. I could not have done it without their help. 2nd Gear Low had a video that was amazing.
all in all very proud of myself. I was a little annoyed with the bending tab washer. I was only able to get it to bend out flat against the outer 54mm nut. I bent 2 other tabs inwards, but they didn't really lay flat because of how the 2 54mm nuts were not lined up. I followed torque specs and everything else to a T. I took my time, and the job was pretty simple. I was worried my rotor would be seized to the hub, but it came off just fine.

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went back in the garage early today to do the other side wheel bearing. the procedure was successful. I then went back to the other side, just to double check, that I bent the tabs back correctly on the star washer, which I did. I'd say I performed the procedure flawlessly. I used the best bearings I could buy, KOYO, and I used a brass punch while getting out the races. I love the Land Cruiser I want to make it last as long as I can.

On another note, mechanics work isn't easy, and there is no quitting involved. I hate how much they charge, but I understand why. Even a fair shop/mechanic is going to have to give you bad news eventually if you drive an old vehicle and you don't do any of the work on it yourself.
 
Freshened up fluids under the hood. Brake, AHC, Radiator, Power steering. Then poured a bottle in of my favorite fuel injector cleaner Red Line/ topped off with super and drove into the City for a Hamburger. Yes, it was a tasty burger.

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Fixed my cracked grille the best I could then painted the whole thing black and prepped my sub for the new foam surround that should be here tomorrow.

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Installed some of my stuff from owl expedition. Media mount and ARB dual compressor mount. I wired the compressor to the sPod and install was super easy. Media mount will be used with my garmin overlander most likely. I hate it, but it's good for when you don't have cell service.

Wires aren't cleaned up yet in the pic. Rest assured, it's a clean install now.

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Had a few bumps while driving where I got a 1/2 second loss of power. Then engine would die while coming to a stop. Then got p0100 code…MAF sensor issue. Cleaned sensor, no dice. Then replaced with this $33 one from Amazon. Now all good for now at least.

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Let my buddy borrow The Rig last week, but just before I did the cheap Chinese antenna replacement broke. So while it was out I ordered an OEM replacement.

Today I got it back, and set to pulling the broken cord out of the mechanism, and replacing the antenna again.

Once that was done I decided to finally install my bumper guard. Realized after getting the bumper off that there are ready-made spots (double-cross in a circle) to drill in the bumper to install it (it's an Asia/Europe factory option), and went easy mode. Total time to take the OG bumper off, drill holes, install the guard, and reinstall was maybe an hour.

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I realize the look may not be for everyone, but I dig the hell out of it, and it works for my practical needs (access roads, just trying to keep the fogs and headlights relatively protected from branches).
 
Not much of a holiday weekend, but a productive one. Changed t belt, s belt, plugs and coils. Also the heater Ts. Good thing I got to them now; I had the driver side tee crumble in my hand, right as I was unclamping and twisting it out.

This was a heck of a project! Many thanks to @spressomon, @scottm & @BnvS for their helpful t belt write ups. And of course @OTRAMM ’s YouTube videos.

If you’re wondering, my hundo
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is a 99 LX with 292,300 on the odo. Yes, that 90k t belt interval went a skosh long.
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Let my buddy borrow The Rig last week, but just before I did the cheap Chinese antenna replacement broke. So while it was out I ordered an OEM replacement.

Today I got it back, and set to pulling the broken cord out of the mechanism, and replacing the antenna again.

Once that was done I decided to finally install my bumper guard. Realized after getting the bumper off that there are ready-made spots (double-cross in a circle) to drill in the bumper to install it (it's an Asia/Europe factory option), and went easy mode. Total time to take the OG bumper off, drill holes, install the guard, and reinstall was maybe an hour.

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I realize the look may not be for everyone, but I dig the hell out of it, and it works for my practical needs (access roads, just trying to keep the fogs and headlights relatively protected from branches).
The form factor of that bumper looks pretty good; I think I would like it better if it held a concealed winch within the extra girth.
 
The form factor of that bumper looks pretty good; I think I would like it better if it held a concealed winch within the extra girth.
Me too, but itll be a bit before I have the funds to grab a winch and try to fab something up
 

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