Lexus GX470 CV Axles (5 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

When you're talking about using a FJ Cruiser kit, is that because it provides higher angle boots? Or just the exact same as GX470, but Toyota parts will be cheaper?
Thanks!!!
FJC and GX470 = exact same Japanese CVs the boot kits are the same. (Tacoma CVs of the same era will fit as whole unit but boot kits are different for the North American assembled Taco) I rebuild my GX CVs with rebuild kits from the Toyota dealer spec. for the FJC. Mr. Toyota knows how to make a boot kit! (remember Black grease{ moly} is the outter, lighter colored grease {lithium} is the inner CV. They are not the same grease, the kits come with grease packs for each)
 
I've personally re-booted 3 OEM Axles using an Ebay Boot kit with soft rolled edge worm clamps. 2 on my old 2004 and one so far on my new 2006. Getting ready to do the passenger side. With stock ride height I don't see any issue with going this direction. Or like @Rednexus said, just go with Cardone if MUST replace them or don't feel like dealing with grease.
 
Got my Toyota reman cv axles

IMG_3092.jpeg


IMG_3094.jpeg


IMG_3093.jpeg
 
Funny enough, I just finished replacing my driver side with this exact one, except I got it from rock auto for $69 + shipping. I rebuilt the OEM passenger side, but didn't want to deal with the mess so I just popped this one in. I'll keep this OEM one anyway to rebuild it later.

For anyone else reading this thread & considering this route, I HIGHLY recommend you remove the retainer clip from the OEM cv axle and pop into the new one. Idk why its such a hassle with the new clip. I hammered away with a 2lb rubber mallet & it wouldn't seat. Once I changed it, it went in with 2 good blows.

Also, don't rely on using a pry bar to push in the cardone axle; it doesn't have anything to "grab" onto. I put the axle nut onto the cv axle, just enough to protect the threads & hammered away. A bungee cord or gym resistance bands to hold it straight worked wonders.

Just some tid-bits I learned after swearing a bunch & reading/watching others do it.
Funny enough, I just finished replacing my driver side with this exact one, except I got it from rock auto for $69 + shipping. I rebuilt the OEM passenger side, but didn't want to deal with the mess so I just popped this one in. I'll keep this OEM one anyway to rebuild it later.

For anyone else reading this thread & considering this route, I HIGHLY recommend you remove the retainer clip from the OEM cv axle and pop into the new one. Idk why its such a hassle with the new clip. I hammered away with a 2lb rubber mallet & it wouldn't seat. Once I changed it, it went in with 2 good blows.

Also, don't rely on using a pry bar to push in the cardone axle; it doesn't have anything to "grab" onto. I put the axle nut onto the cv axle, just enough to protect the threads & hammered away. A bungee cord or gym resistance bands to hold it straight worked wonders.

Just some tid-bits I learned after swearing a bunch & reading/watching others do it.

I’d like to retract this statement.

The Cardones sucked soooo bad they didn’t even make 1 mile. A rotational clunking noise. I had to do double the work but I rebooted the OEM one with the other set of all pro boots I had. They didn’t tear… just not enough articulation I suppose.

Don’t do it to yourself. Value your time.
 
There is a lot of talk here about redoing the boots yourself. I attempted just that and discovered the CV axle that came off the truck was NOT an OEM. The oem boot kit had different diamater boots than the aftermarket CV axle. I ended up buying another CV axle from CVJ.

So, beware. All of the above is true. It is easy to do and just a bit messy. But things might not turn out so great.
How do you tell if it is an OEM axle?
 
How do you tell if it is an OEM axle?
There are several ways to tell. The easiest is the inner axle cup often has different shapes and indents vs oem. and the axle shaft on non-oem are usually raw metal. CVJ and OEM are often painted/coated and usually have a sticker unless someone removes it. The outers are harder to tell but diameter of the bell can vary and the non-oem are usually smaller. A lot of people mess up the inner boot as the tulip shape of the cup needs the booth to either be OEM or you need to keep the OEM boot and cut the tulip part out and put it in the new boot or it won't cinch onto the axle and cause a mess.
 
I happen to have a cv axle handy…reman from Toyota dealer.

Maybe put pictures to Dan’s words

IMG_3586.jpeg


IMG_3589.jpeg


IMG_3588.jpeg


IMG_3587.jpeg
 
Good pics. A non OEM will look totally different and not have the same notches on the differential side that allow a slide hammer to be used for removal.

I'd strongly suggest ditching non-OEM axles and getting reman OEMs instead.
 
Good pics. A non OEM will look totally different and not have the same notches on the differential side that allow a slide hammer to be used for removal.

I'd strongly suggest ditching non-OEM axles and getting reman OEMs instead.
Or if you plan to stay stock width with a 34+ tire you can get Lotus CVs ($$). I ran these for literally years, including the rubicon and more and never lost a CV or a boot.
 
I’m looking at UZJ100 axles for my Tacoma w/ manual hubs. Larger 6 ball plunge for the inner… and it plugs right in. Outer is larger. Drive flange could be put in place of the hub for AWD.

More info on the Lotus CV? I’ve heard of them, but never researched.
FB37A1E8-A3B9-4283-89B9-382DAE118687.jpeg
 
Or if you plan to stay stock width with a 34+ tire you can get Lotus CVs ($$). I ran these for literally years, including the rubicon and more and never lost a CV or a boot.
That is quite an expensive CV :). Will stick with the $120 All-Pro high-angle CV joints for my GX, but those do look sweet for rigs that venture more into the rockcrawling realm and break CVS.
 
That is quite an expensive CV :). Will stick with the $120 All-Pro high-angle CV joints for my GX, but those do look sweet for rigs that venture more into the rockcrawling realm and break CVS.
Yeah, it is a one and done CV. Like I said, if you break CVs, IF, this is a good answer if you plan to stay stock width.
 
Hey guys, trying to find part number for the entire OEM CV Axle assembly. I saw a part number on a previous post here from 2020 but it has changed.

Does lexus still sell an entire assembled OEM CV Axle Assembly? Im not looking for parts to rebuild.

When I search online I find a part number but with a diagram of said part that does not look like the entire assembly. Just want to make sure i buy the right thing as they are pricey.

Thanks
 
If you Google the Toyota oem part number 43430-60082 or the Toyota reman part number 43430-60082-84, you still find dealers selling either the new or reman part.

Not sure what’s going on…I’m guessing Toyota is making new ones again, so the remans maybe going away. Just a guess.

Www.partsouq.com seems to now sell the new ones at a new oem price!
 
FWIW: After waiting about 3 months for them to arrive, I bought 2 reman units from Toyota for my '06 Land Cruiser, and I had to return BOTH of them in less than 100 miles. One's splines were so worn from prior use that they "clicked" in my new drive flanges, and the other one had a bad vibration. Like everyone else, I was excited to find Toyota axles at a greatly reduced price; however, in a very un-Toyota-like fashion, they weren't remanufactured to the level I expected from Toyota. Surprisingly, when I went to warranty them, I was told they were no longer available. The only thing I can assume is that they had many returned for shotty quality like mine and figured it'd be best just to sell new ones.

At the end of the day, I bit the bullet and bought new ones from Toyota.
 
FWIW: After waiting about 3 months for them to arrive, I bought 2 reman units from Toyota for my '06 Land Cruiser, and I had to return BOTH of them in less than 100 miles. One's splines were so worn from prior use that they "clicked" in my new drive flanges, and the other one had a bad vibration. Like everyone else, I was excited to find Toyota axles at a greatly reduced price; however, in a very un-Toyota-like fashion, they weren't remanufactured to the level I expected from Toyota. Surprisingly, when I went to warranty them, I was told they were no longer available. The only thing I can assume is that they had many returned for shotty quality like mine and figured it'd be best just to sell new ones.

At the end of the day, I bit the bullet and bought new ones from Toyota.
That’s sucks on the reman ones from Toyota.

I have my reman ones from Toyota sitting in storage for when I’m ready to install.

This story doesn’t give me confidence! I hope it’s an 80% chance they are a good reman from Toyota!
 
That’s sucks on the reman ones from Toyota.

I have my reman ones from Toyota sitting in storage for when I’m ready to install.

This story doesn’t give me confidence! I hope it’s an 80% chance they are a good reman from Toyota!
Yeah, I was really stoked that Toyota had decided to step off into the reman game by providing "quality" units. Unfortunately, they must've just outsourced that project to another company, as the axles themselves didn't look like Toyota shafts.

Inasmuch as they're no longer available from Toyota (at least not for a 100 series Land Cruiser), I can only assume they must've gotten tired of having to warranty an item that probably didn't provide them a financial return worth the hassle.
 
Yeah, I was really stoked that Toyota had decided to step off into the reman game by providing "quality" units. Unfortunately, they must've just outsourced that project to another company, as the axles themselves didn't look like Toyota shafts.

Inasmuch as they're no longer available from Toyota (at least not for a 100 series Land Cruiser), I can only assume they must've gotten tired of having to warranty an item that probably didn't provide them a financial return worth the hassle.
Okay…I confirmed that my reman cv axles are in fact Toyota oem.

I just don’t know how many miles they had in them prior to rebooting them.

I’m hoping mine are the real deal and last me a while
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom