Jacking Height for Front Spring Removal (1 Viewer)

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Jan 1, 2011
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Location
Tempe, Arizona
I’m getting ready to pull my front OME Lift springs. I’m just wondering how high you need to lift the front end to remove the Springs? I saw something that suggested that you only need to lift the frame high enough so that the front tires are just making contact with the ground. I’m assuming that implies that you are just taking up the weight/pressure off the Springs, but not lifting the wheels and adding weight and pressure to the Springs from the tires and axle.

Is that the right approach, do do you lift and support the axle too, after jacking and supporting the frame?

Any guidance is appreciated!
 
I removed my wheels first. Then put jack stands under the frame, at whatever height feels comfortable. For me the axle was maybe 12 inches off the ground. I then removed the axle u-bolts, jacked up the axle an inch or so and put some wood blocks under the axle. From there, you can remove the springs without the added weight of the axle on the springs. The springs are heavy enough without the axle weight. Be carefull, when your axle is off both springs, the axle can shift around in all directions.
 
I’m getting ready to pull my front OME Lift springs. I’m just wondering how high you need to lift the front end to remove the Springs? I saw something that suggested that you only need to lift the frame high enough so that the front tires are just making contact with the ground. I’m assuming that implies that you are just taking up the weight/pressure off the Springs, but not lifting the wheels and adding weight and pressure to the Springs from the tires and axle.

Is that the right approach, do do you lift and support the axle too, after jacking and supporting the frame?

Any guidance is appreciated!
Didn’t need to jack up very much.

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So, you raised the front end high enough to raise the tires off the ground and then remove the tires and secure the frame and the axle before removing the shock & springs?
 
For me…the answer as you stated is yes…except I would remove the shocks while the wheels are on the ground. For me it easier that way.
 
Loosen the u-bolt nuts before taking off the wheels it makes it much easier to remove the springs.
 
He said he was removing the springs…at least I thought that’s what he said??
no need to remove the shocks if you are not replacing them, or puingll the axle out from under the cruiser.
 
I removed my wheels first. Then put jack stands under the frame, at whatever height feels comfortable. For me the axle was maybe 12 inches off the ground. I then removed the axle u-bolts, jacked up the axle an inch or so and put some wood blocks under the axle. From there, you can remove the springs without the added weight of the axle on the springs. The springs are heavy enough without the axle weight. Be carefull, when your axle is off both springs, the axle can shift around in all directions.

Did you remove the wheels by jacking the frame and securing it on stands first? How else can you remove the tires
 
For me…the answer as you stated is yes…except I would remove the shocks while the wheels are on the ground. For me it easier that way.

John, I got the vehicle jacked, U-Bolt nuts loosened and wheels off, but when I tried to secure and lift the axle slightly to take the axle weight off the Springs, it kept lifting the frame off the heavy jack stand I had on the frame rail behind the rear spring mount. I did have a jack stand on one side of the axle but the axle seems to be hanging on the other side. I can’t lift it to get a stand under it without lifting the frame off the jack stand behind the spring.

Does that make sense? I was able to get the U-Bolt plates off, so the Springs are only connected now on the front and rear hangers/Shackles. Should I be good to pull the Springs? Should I do one side at a time?
How difficult is it to get them re-mounted?

One other question? Can I check the length of my shocks (at this point) to see if I’m getting good articulation? I believe my OME NitroCharger Shocks are the right one for my FJ40, but I really don’t know how much travel they have.
 
@rstoddard

The picture I get from your description, yes, you should be able to undo & drop your springs. I do one side at a time, get that spring on/off but not fully torqued and then do the other side. You may have to slightly, very slightly take a bit of the weight off the springs to make it easier get the shackles off the frame…may use a pry bar to assist, not always but sometimes.

Not too difficult to remount them. However, you may need to use a rachet strap to move to axle either forwards or backwards. Not always but the strap can help sometimes.

Regarding the length of your shocks/articulation, you will need to have the springs and shocks mounted in order to test if they are doing what they should. Not a big deal tho, once the springs are on you can get each shock hooked up in 5 minutes or so.
 
I got one Spring off without too much trouble.
I started to break it down to clean and recondition it, but I had some questions:

The Spring is a OME Med load Spring (OME-13), with 8 spring layers. The bottom four layers have the interleaf liners while the top four layers have a metal clips with plastic liners. I separated the bottom spring layers, but I haven’t separated the top spring layers yet.

So, how do these Springs work? Why are the top layers seemingly locked together with the metal clamps/clips, while the bottom layers are seemingly independent? What do the interleaf liners do? When replacing them, do they need to be greased?

I appreciate the help understanding how the Springs function. I just want to learn about them while I’m working on them!
 
I have watched people use ratcheting straps to support the axle housing to the chassis above it, therefore taking the weight off the leaf springs making the process easier without having to use the jack again. Assuming its a spring under.
 
In my case, I was able to support the entire frame with enough height to use a jack to support the axle at the pumpkin... and I had a 2nd jack to take load off the spring as needed.
It was a one man comedy as I prolly did a thousand burpees getting up and down to line up the pins on the inner mounts to get them placed.
Triple check all your torque values on those u-bolts!! and everywhere.
I replaced an old Rancho 2" lift with an OME 2.5" med springs and shocks (new bushings and hardware) Loving it! My old original leaf springs were flat and worn out. I'm prolly too stiff, ... handles really well, but feels a bit bouncy. I always feel like I'm driving the moon rover with my gravity-defying springs. Lots of flex now that i couldn't achieve before.
before and after pics
 
I got one Spring off without too much trouble.
I started to break it down to clean and recondition it, but I had some questions:

The Spring is a OME Med load Spring (OME-13), with 8 spring layers. The bottom four layers have the interleaf liners while the top four layers have a metal clips with plastic liners. I separated the bottom spring layers, but I haven’t separated the top spring layers yet.

So, how do these Springs work? Why are the top layers seemingly locked together with the metal clamps/clips, while the bottom layers are seemingly independent? What do the interleaf liners do? When replacing them, do they need to be greased?

I appreciate the help understanding how the Springs function. I just want to learn about them while I’m working on them!

You might want to review this info.
 
In my case, I was able to support the entire frame with enough height to use a jack to support the axle at the pumpkin... and I had a 2nd jack to take load off the spring as needed.
It was a one man comedy as I prolly did a thousand burpees getting up and down to line up the pins on the inner mounts to get them placed.
Triple check all your torque values on those u-bolts!! and everywhere.
I replaced an old Rancho 2" lift with an OME 2.5" med springs and shocks (new bushings and hardware) Loving it! My old original leaf springs were flat and worn out. I'm prolly too stiff, ... handles really well, but feels a bit bouncy. I always feel like I'm driving the moon rover with my gravity-defying springs. Lots of flex now that i couldn't achieve before.
before and after pics
Do you know what the free arch was on the new OME Springs?
 
Do you know what the free arch was on the new OME Springs?
I am not smart enough to know that... LOL. I didn't pull them apart (maybe I'll pull a leafe later if the rides stays hard OR I'll just buy a winch and a lot of gear, LOL. I'm having trouble with loading pics... would they help?
 
I am not smart enough to know that... LOL. I didn't pull them apart (maybe I'll pull a leafe later if the rides stays hard OR I'll just buy a winch and a lot of gear, LOL. I'm having trouble with loading pics... would they help?
No. I’m just trying to determine if my old OME Springs are still good. I’m trying to find out what the free arch specs should be do I can determine if I should replace or recondition. Thanks anyway!
 

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