HiveMind Q: What To Do at 200-250k Miles with Budget $X? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Duly noted, thanks! Tranny coming out anyway.
 
PARTS SO FAR
This is everything here or on the way. Won't know about bearings or pistons / rings until the engine comes apart. Want the head as all-new as possible.

04111-66061 Gasket Kit Engine (105 FZ)

15785-66010 x3 Gasket, Oil Cooler

15188-66020 Gasket, Oil Pump

11328-66020 Gasket, Timing Gear or Chain Cover

90311-52022 Seal, Oil (for Timing Chain or Belt Cover)

90311-99009 Seal, Engine Rear Oil

15725-66010 Gasket, Oil Cooler Cover

96721-24022 Ring, O (for Diaphragm Cylinder)

96761-24042 Ring, O

13506-66010 Chain Sub-Assy

13561-66010 Damper, Chain Vibration, No. 1

13559-66011 Slipper, Chain Tensioner

13540-66011 Tensioner Assy, Chain, No. 1

11011-66020 Washer Set, Crankshaft Thrust

13521-66020 Gear or Sprocket, Crankshaft Timing

13523-66020 Gear or Sprocket, Camshaft Timing

15721-66010 Cover, Oil Cooler

15710-54030 Cooler Assy, Oil

90501-38006 (24) Spring (Compression, for Inner)

90913-03027 (50) Lock, Valve Spring Retainer

13734-66020 (24) Seat, Valve Spring

13741-66020 (24) Retainer, Valve Spring

90913-02096 (12) Seal or Ring, O (for Valve Stem Oil)

90913-02105 (12) Seal or Ring, O (for Valve Stem Oil)

***13529-62900 ???? [same as 62900?] Gear, Camshaft Sub

13529-62901 Gear, Camshaft Sub

13579-50020 Spring, Camshaft Gear

19080-66010 Coil Assy, Ignition

89621-26010 ~ Igniter Assy

12361-17011 x2 Insulator, Engine Mounting, Front

12371-66030 Insulator, Engine Mounting, Rear No. 1

13470-66030 Pulley, Crankshaft

90119-22001 Bolt (for Crankshaft Pulley Set)

Manley Rods and Valves

PLANNED
Items on the list but not yet ordered...

Belts
All hoses
Any engine seals and gaskets not found in the 105 kit
Booster
Master cylinder
Battery boxes and grommets
Firewall grommets
Sensors
Engine harness
Plug wires
Dizzy o-ring, dust ring, rotor, cap
Plug tube seals, PCV grommet
Starter
Throttle cable
Kickdown cable
Smog stuff

Steering gear rebuild
Injector cleaning

Wondering whether I can use the same cams for another 250k, and whether to replace lifters either way.

What am I missing?
 
Last edited:
I would not replace the ignitor or oil cooler. Do the oil coolers fail? Ive never heard of them failing. I would say an ignitor failure is rare as well. Only engine sensors i would replace are maybe o2 sensors. Toyota sensors are really good. Can you replace the distributor bearing? I think kick down cable is likely not needed. I would expect cams to be fine.
 
I would not replace the ignitor or oil cooler. Do the oil coolers fail? Ive never heard of them failing. I would say an ignitor failure is rare as well. Only engine sensors i would replace are maybe o2 sensors. Toyota sensors are really good. Can you replace the distributor bearing? I think kick down cable is likely not needed. I would expect cams to be fine.
Thing about the oil cooler (or so I've read) is that it's good at picking up little bits of metal--and then spitting them back out again at random times (as in--after you've rebuilt the engine). It's on my machine shop's standard list of things to replace (that is, they say that before they've seen the engine), presumably for that reason. Someone on Mud said their machine shop would not warrant the rebuild unless the oil cooler was replaced.
 
$5k: sell it and buy something newer

$10k: ls swap
 
That leaves the ls swap for the win🏆
That was a job even for ICON/TLC, and my impression is those motors 'might' go 100k. I may do a UZ swap down the line, funds permitting.
 
Didn't realize you could get a usable image from inside something so small. Good idea. Cometic if the new stocker isn't thick enough.
You don’t need a cometic, when you are surfacing a head
This is CA so, no deleting smog stuff. I should put up a list of what I know I'm replacing and ask what else. Dunno how you managed that price; I have a VERY small pile of parts and I'm at $1800+.
partsouq!
 
Lots of chevy trucks driving around with 300,000+ miles. Not sure where you got the impression a chevy v8 is only good for 100k 🤣

A chevy v8 will be way easier and cheaper to swap than a uz. And any mechanic in any shop in any city in the US can diagnose and repair a chevy v8. And parts will also be readily available in any city in America.

Lots of good reasons to swap a chevy v8. They are hands down the most swapped engine off all time.
 
That was a job even for ICON/TLC, and my impression is those motors 'might' go 100k. I may do a UZ swap down the line, funds permitting.
Where did you hear that? My impression was 200k if you abuse it and don't take care of it, or 350k+ if it at least got regular oil changes.
That's from personal experience, and knowing people who had vehicles with the various 1st gen LS platform engines.

Had a work truck drive into my high school's donation pile with over 570k miles, but it was pretty gutless by that point and it's headlight harness lit on fire within a month of us getting it... it was TRASHED.
 
Lots of chevy trucks driving around with 300,000+ miles. Not sure where you got the impression a chevy v8 is only good for 100k 🤣

A chevy v8 will be way easier and cheaper to swap than a uz. And any mechanic in any shop in any city in the US can diagnose and repair a chevy v8. And parts will also be readily available in any city in America.

Lots of good reasons to swap a chevy v8. They are hands down the most swapped engine off all time.
Nothing against Chevys in general, but how many of those delivery trucks are running LS engines? I'm gonna stick with the family label: Toyota. :)
 
Where did you hear that? My impression was 200k if you abuse it and don't take care of it, or 350k+ if it at least got regular oil changes.
That's from personal experience, and knowing people who had vehicles with the various 1st gen LS platform engines.

Had a work truck drive into my high school's donation pile with over 570k miles, but it was pretty gutless by that point and it's headlight harness lit on fire within a month of us getting it... it was TRASHED.
Ehhh from a guy who works a lot of trucks. Now, maybe he's full of sh*t, I dunno; hence "my impression." I tend to be careful with my wording...
 
Ehhh from a guy who works a lot of trucks. Now, maybe he's full of sh*t, I dunno; hence "my impression." I tend to be careful with my wording...
Lol he’s full of it. Probably some kind of Ford fanboy. 300k+ miles on a 4.8,5.3,6.0 is basically the norm.
 
Lol he’s full of it. Probably some kind of Ford fanboy. 300k+ miles on a 4.8,5.3,6.0 is basically the norm.
Yeah, and the biggest benefit to them IMO is that they're just oil changes and that's it.
No timing belt, hydraulic lifters so no valve adjustments, just change the oil and drive until it's worn out. The perfect consumer vehicle since you know some people are going to skip those important (but expensive) services.

Back on topic, I hear people who put forced induction on always replace their knock sensors. But yikes they're expensive.

And my valvetrain looked great when I took it out over 300k miles, but I did replace the valve springs since they were a fairly weak compared to a new one, although I forget by how much.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom