TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (3 Viewers)

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Changing fluids in the 80 today and saw that I crushed the ring surround on the front differential drain plug. Got everything done except the front diff fluid. Does anyone have any tips on getting this plug out since the rock I hit deformed the protection ring into the drain plug?
I tried banging on the inside of the crushed side with a brass tap and hammer, tried prying with a screwdriver, tried to take the 24mm socket and bang it onto the plug. All to no avail.

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Got to make clearance Clarence.
4” grinder and cutting wheel. BTDT

Then switch to the 10mm Allen head style plug.

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Buy these
To replace the stock ones.
Order 2 with steel washer for both diffs
Order 2 with aluminum washer for your trans and tcase.


One of the first things I replace on all my Toyotas.
 
if you have access to a welder run a new beed around the existing weld to reinforce it.
 
Thanks for all the input on replacements for the plugs and ideas on how to get the stuck one out. I ordered the replacement plugs with washers and will have them by this weekend. I will wait until I get the plugs in and work on getting the stuck one out. Pics to follow of a successful outcome....hopefully. I don't have access to a welder, nor the skill to use one. My last go with a welder was in high school.
 


Buy these
To replace the stock ones.
Order 2 with steel washer for both diffs
Order 2 with aluminum washer for your trans and tcase.


One of the first things I replace on all my Toyotas.
Marlin or Toyota? The Marlin drain plugs appear to be extra long but I guess no issues on the 80 diffs, trans, and TC?
 
Marlin or Toyota? The Marlin drain plugs appear to be extra long but I guess no issues on the 80 diffs, trans, and TC?
Those are the longer magnetic type.


These are a bit shorter.
 
Updates on my LS serpentine belt issue. Warrantied the serpentine belt with a small battle at Advance Auto - “That’s not a belt defect that’s a bad pulley” to which I insisted was incorrect and eventually they gave in.

Anyways I then replaced the bad tensioner pulley with my spare haha.

But as soon as I cranked it up I noticed the belt walking forward on the crank. I reset it and it did it again. Does it immediately after it runs. Walks forward so one rib of the belt is off the balancer. Then it doesn’t throw. Just sits there until the edge of the balancer wears through the crank. If the balancer was bent I’d think it would throw it and not just wear it like that. It also appears perfectly straight when running. It’s like something else is out of alignment.

I made these discoveries last week, I'm at the beach now, i’m going to investigate further next week.

On the bright side since my 40 is down I’ve just been driving my dads around.

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We just got started shoehorning 35/12.5 R 18's onto Nathan's 100. So far, so good!


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Thanks @Comet for the smoking deal you made Nathan on the wheels. He's stoked!
 
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Is the balancer fully seated on the crank or from a different model engine?

Maybe alignment issue with an accessory pulley
 
Updates on my LS serpentine belt issue. Warrantied the serpentine belt with a small battle at Advance Auto - “That’s not a belt defect that’s a bad pulley” to which I insisted was incorrect and eventually they gave in.

Anyways I then replaced the bad tensioner pulley with my spare haha.

But as soon as I cranked it up I noticed the belt walking forward on the crank. I reset it and it did it again. Does it immediately after it runs. Walks forward so one rib of the belt is off the balancer. Then it doesn’t throw. Just sits there until the edge of the balancer wears through the crank. If the balancer was bent I’d think it would throw it and not just wear it like that. It also appears perfectly straight when running. It’s like something else is out of alignment.

I made these discoveries last week, I'm at the beach now, i’m going to investigate further next week.

On the bright side since my 40 is down I’ve just been driving my dads a
Is the balancer fully seated on the crank or from a different model engine?

Maybe alignment issue with an accessory pulley
I haven’t been able to check but it’s the balancer that came on the engine from the junkyard so I’d imagine it’s good.

I also think the balancer would have to be too far I set to the engine with the belt coming off the front like that, which could be caused by the rubber degrading in it, but I’d think it would wobble.

My current hypothesis is the power steering pulley has wiggled put on the PS pump shaft some and is pulling it forward on the water pump and in turn the balancer. That seems to be a semi-common occurrence on the internet.
 
I believe the power steering pulley hypothesis is Correct. The pulley does appear to be forward on the shaft to me. I need to look at another to compare. Hard to tell in the picture but the front edge of the pulley is a good 1/4” off the front off the shaft - you can see it in the picture if you look closely.

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Easiest way to confirm is to put a straight edge on the balancer, then measure depth to each pulley.

Alignment is def your problem, just have to measure and figure which one it is instead of guessing.
 
I believe the power steering pulley hypothesis is Correct. The pulley does appear to be forward on the shaft to me. I need to look at another to compare. Hard to tell in the picture but the front edge of the pulley is a good 1/4” off the front off the shaft - you can see it in the picture if you look closely.

View attachment 3333966
That pulley should be flush on the end of that shaft.
 
Thanks Izzy :) All the off angles due to how the sides taper in makes me crazy when I look at it.
 
That pulley should be flush on the end of that shaft.
That’s what I thought, was gonna look at my
Buddies Tahoe to confirm.

Sounds like I need a new power steering pump. From what I’ve read once that pulley moved you can’t just press it back on, it’ll just wiggle out again.
 
2F freshen up for the '82 FJ40 named "Dusty." Manifold refurb, desmog, engine re-seal, new cooling system and general cleaning, powder coating, painting, etc.
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