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those electric boosters look great. Wonder if it would fit inside the rib on a pre 70 firewall. 
Builds fj60 going to EV FJ45 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter workingdog
- Start date
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workingdog
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- Thread starter
- #682
It's very, very close. The rib on the Aqualu tub is in the same place and it overlaps a little, but it's just a boss that looks like it could be ground off.
workingdog
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- Thread starter
- #683
Okay, I've got rub rails on the sides. They looked better in my head. I didn't want to do a traditional style since I only have 2" of space in the middle, so this seemed like a cool concept. Not 100% sold on it. Hopefully it will look better when it's all welded and the end caps are on.
Also, the drawer is installed. Need front and back and probably to move the charger farther forward on the frame, but it it work.
Also, the drawer is installed. Need front and back and probably to move the charger farther forward on the frame, but it it work.
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #684
Okay, milestone achieved. The tesla brakes work great - so no there's no noise from the vacuum pump, so the EV is nearly silent. I'm 3/4's way through redoing the headlights so the bezel can sit flush against the bib. What a pain that was. This is the first drive with the flat bed, you can see the ass is down about an inch, so I need to take one spring from 175 to 200 lbs to get that back. Also first real test drive on 40's. Everything seems to run well.
EDIT: Clearly the 40's are rubbing the front fenders on even a little flexing. So, not sure what I'm going to do about that. Cut the very expensive aluminum fenders? Not sure I have any choice.
xmas 22 test drive 2b - https://youtu.be/B_0rhEJ1R8s
Merry Christmas, happy holidays, happy new year to everyone on Mud!!!!
So, the EJ45 or EV45 is pretty damn close to full operational. have to finish some details on the flatbed and there are a lot of other details, like getting lockers wired up, but it's legitimately functional at this point. Runs well. It's throwing one error that's a 'key-voltage low'. Which is weird. I'm going to have to ask someone about that. But, it's not keeping the rig from running.
EDIT: Clearly the 40's are rubbing the front fenders on even a little flexing. So, not sure what I'm going to do about that. Cut the very expensive aluminum fenders? Not sure I have any choice.
xmas 22 test drive 2b - https://youtu.be/B_0rhEJ1R8s
Merry Christmas, happy holidays, happy new year to everyone on Mud!!!!
So, the EJ45 or EV45 is pretty damn close to full operational. have to finish some details on the flatbed and there are a lot of other details, like getting lockers wired up, but it's legitimately functional at this point. Runs well. It's throwing one error that's a 'key-voltage low'. Which is weird. I'm going to have to ask someone about that. But, it's not keeping the rig from running.
workingdog
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- Thread starter
- #686
Yes, there are bump stops in the front. and I could lower them. I think it's time to put the gopro in front and see what's going on.
That’s super inspiring for my F100 ev build. Congratulations!!!
workingdog
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- Thread starter
- #688
Okay, wired up the front locker (ordered the connector for the rear locker). I printed out all the wiring diagrams. It's pretty simple - in theory. Pins 1 is +12 to actuate. Pin 4 is ground. and pins 2 and 3 are the hall effect sensor that I'll hook up eventually if I can figure out what kind of output it has.
However, turning the switch on, and the supply wire got so hot it almost melted. So, something isn't right. If anyone knows anything about wiring Jeep JL/JT electric locker, I need some help.
However, turning the switch on, and the supply wire got so hot it almost melted. So, something isn't right. If anyone knows anything about wiring Jeep JL/JT electric locker, I need some help.
workingdog
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- Thread starter
- #689
So, I decided to replace the row of switches with a 12 button VO switch to clean things up. I like the concept, but it was a total rewire of the controls. But, I now have a 'all on' button as the VO has the ability to map one button onto several, and it has the ability to have two buttons toggle which I'm using for forward and reverse. When my new plasma table arrives in a few weeks, I'm going to cut out a custom gauge cluster to hold the Hyper 9 display screens and a cleaner panel for the relay box. And, now that I know it all works, I have to go in and spend a couple of hours - at least, cleaning it all up - one more time. Also, the buttons have little stickers that go on them for function, and NONE of the many provided will work for me. I assumed I'd be to find someone to make custom ones for me, but apparently not, so I'm going to have to figure that one out. It won't look nearly as cool.
Also, I'm totally stuck on the flatbed, I can't weld, my son the professional in training could not tack the aluminum. So, I'm stuck for now.
Tesla brake booster works great.
Also, I'm totally stuck on the flatbed, I can't weld, my son the professional in training could not tack the aluminum. So, I'm stuck for now.
Tesla brake booster works great.
Extremely impressive, sir!!!
- Joined
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I wish I wasn't so busy so I could come hang out for another week 
workingdog
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- Thread starter
- #693
You are not too busy. (he said, waving his hand in front of his face). You have plenty of time and want to come to Caliiifoorrrnnniiiaaa.
workingdog
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- Thread starter
- #694
Okay, finally back on the EV for a bit. Cleaned up the conversion of the dash to the VO Switch so the panel closes. I'm not thrilled with how it all went, but the switches are an improvement. Got the hazard and e-brake and steering power adjusters all mounted.
And then I dove into the PITA of swapping a spring in the rear coilovers and moving the charger which required getting the bed off. I got talked into using lower brackets for the coilovers in the rear with bolts that run parallel to the frame. They are a giant PITA because you can't get to the axle side and I had to weld a nut there, which makes getting the coilovers on and off with their little spacers a nightmare. Should not have taken that advice. I'm going to get the plasma cutter out and convert them with some 5/16th plate I have.
And then I dove into the PITA of swapping a spring in the rear coilovers and moving the charger which required getting the bed off. I got talked into using lower brackets for the coilovers in the rear with bolts that run parallel to the frame. They are a giant PITA because you can't get to the axle side and I had to weld a nut there, which makes getting the coilovers on and off with their little spacers a nightmare. Should not have taken that advice. I'm going to get the plasma cutter out and convert them with some 5/16th plate I have.
workingdog
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- Thread starter
- #695
Okay, springs are swapped in the rear, my math was right - I always love it when the math turns out to be right. The rear droop is gone!
Also, as part of moving the charger I built a new mount for it on the plasma table. so I could rotate it up right and save some more inches.
Also, as part of moving the charger I built a new mount for it on the plasma table. so I could rotate it up right and save some more inches.
Looking Great! You've really come a long way since I last saw it.
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #697
Okay, the EV 45 has been sitting for along time. The last time we tried to take it for a test drive (Father's Day) there was a very bad chunka-chunka, thunka- thunka coming from the drive train. Sound like, felt like it was coming from the clutch. We removed the front driveshaft and checked the rear driveshaft just to make sure.
So, today a friend came over to help me tear the drivetrain out. First time taking things out the bottom a the cab is now too much work to take off. Rear driveline, Atlas, NV4500, crossmembers, bell housing until we got to the clutch. Then I spun the motors again and there was a definite wobble. So we pulled the clutch and spun it again with just the flywheel, and it had a definite wobble - all bolts solidly in place.
So, we are assuming that the flywheel, which I had shaved down quite a bit to lighten it, was never properly rebalanced when it was given back to me.
Sigh...
So, now I'm looking for a lightweight aluminum flywheel for an SBC setup - if anyone has experience with that kind of thing let me know. There's no need for any weight, just a surface for the clutch to work against.
I have a Tremec 4050 here that's going to go back in, it looks close enough that only some minor adjustments will be needed to the crossmember to make it work. however, the Atlas will need a new input shaft. And we are installing another one of Silver Sports hydraulic throwout bearings and throwing the crappy slave cylinder mount from AA in the trash.
The NV4500 that we just removed is going to my son in Montana for our '66 FJ40 in place of the 4L80 that's in it now - along with another hydraulic throwout bearing. I might fly out in October to help him do the swap.
So, I'm waiting on new input shaft and flywheel before I can start throwing it all back together. In the mean time, I didn't realize what a mess I'd left the EV in. I think I'll spend the entire week doing clean up on hose can cable routing and a lot of final welding that never got done.
So, today a friend came over to help me tear the drivetrain out. First time taking things out the bottom a the cab is now too much work to take off. Rear driveline, Atlas, NV4500, crossmembers, bell housing until we got to the clutch. Then I spun the motors again and there was a definite wobble. So we pulled the clutch and spun it again with just the flywheel, and it had a definite wobble - all bolts solidly in place.
So, we are assuming that the flywheel, which I had shaved down quite a bit to lighten it, was never properly rebalanced when it was given back to me.
Sigh...
So, now I'm looking for a lightweight aluminum flywheel for an SBC setup - if anyone has experience with that kind of thing let me know. There's no need for any weight, just a surface for the clutch to work against.
I have a Tremec 4050 here that's going to go back in, it looks close enough that only some minor adjustments will be needed to the crossmember to make it work. however, the Atlas will need a new input shaft. And we are installing another one of Silver Sports hydraulic throwout bearings and throwing the crappy slave cylinder mount from AA in the trash.
The NV4500 that we just removed is going to my son in Montana for our '66 FJ40 in place of the 4L80 that's in it now - along with another hydraulic throwout bearing. I might fly out in October to help him do the swap.
So, I'm waiting on new input shaft and flywheel before I can start throwing it all back together. In the mean time, I didn't realize what a mess I'd left the EV in. I think I'll spend the entire week doing clean up on hose can cable routing and a lot of final welding that never got done.
I'd double check that hub that we pressed on. Make sure it hasn't sheared that key and the hub hasn't back off or moved.
workingdog
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- Thread starter
- #699
Good point. That will be fun to get at.
workingdog
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- Thread starter
- #700
Okay, since I'm waiting a month for the flywheel, I've attacked the rest of the flatbed I abandoned a while ago. A lot of fiddly detailed time consuming work. But, it's coming together. Since I can't tick, it's a lot of drilling and tapping and little aluminum brackets.
The rear is done, license plate is on, I've almost got the sides secured to the structure.
But ... I need help with the latches. I got normal overlanding drawer latches, and when I looked at the flat bed I am essentially copying, I realized they make the drawer very narrow so there's room for the latches. I didn't realize that and made the drawer as wide as possible, so now there's no room for the latches to sit. I look at normal lift latches (think RV storage door) and they have a similar problem. I need something with a relative snug closure, or else the drawer is going to rattle the entire back end apart.
The rear is done, license plate is on, I've almost got the sides secured to the structure.
But ... I need help with the latches. I got normal overlanding drawer latches, and when I looked at the flat bed I am essentially copying, I realized they make the drawer very narrow so there's room for the latches. I didn't realize that and made the drawer as wide as possible, so now there's no room for the latches to sit. I look at normal lift latches (think RV storage door) and they have a similar problem. I need something with a relative snug closure, or else the drawer is going to rattle the entire back end apart.
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