Should I Hold Out for 06-07? (1 Viewer)

[Coin]

This is my opinion based on my experience replacing all of these. These are in order of impact.

For nice tracking down the highway
Steering rack qty 2
Rear control arms qty 8 for upper and lower.
Panhard bar, qty 2
Upper control arm bushing (qty 4).
Lower control arm bushings (qty 4, two of which live in the frame)

For smoother ride
Upper ball joint x2
Lower ball joint x2
Upper cushion, lower cushion, lower shock bushing. Qty 12 total
Sway bar - 2 for the bar, 2 for the links. Front and rear?

Less vibration and clunks
Front diff qty 3 bushings, qty 2 cushions.
Engine mount qty 2
Trans mount qty 1?

 

[usedname]

This is my opinion based on my experience replacing all of these. These are in order of impact.

For nice tracking down the highway
Steering rack qty 2
Rear control arms qty 8 for upper and lower.
Panhard bar, qty 2
Upper control arm bushing (qty 4).
Lower control arm bushings (qty 4, two of which live in the frame)

For smoother ride
Upper ball joint x2
Lower ball joint x2
Upper cushion, lower cushion, lower shock bushing. Qty 12 total
Sway bar - 2 for the bar, 2 for the links. Front and rear?

Less vibration and clunks
Front diff qty 3 bushings, qty 2 cushions.
Engine mount qty 2
Trans mount qty 1?

Cool. Do the steering rack ones help the steering feel any lighter? My rack was replaced in 2015 and I only see some slight darkening of the boots to indicate leaks, there's no roughness in the steering but a decent amount of 'dead' area in the center. Wondering if steering rack bushings would address that, and/or the heaviness of the wheel.

Similarly, I feel like the car has to 'settle' in to a turn/lane change on the highway. This is the same waggly feeling I got in my LS, which was fixed with a fat rear sway bar. Is that what all the other bushings fix under your 'tracking' heading?

 

[Red Beard]

This is my opinion based on my experience replacing all of these. These are in order of impact.

For nice tracking down the highway
Steering rack qty 2
Rear control arms qty 8 for upper and lower.
Panhard bar, qty 2
Upper control arm bushing (qty 4).
Lower control arm bushings (qty 4, two of which live in the frame)

For smoother ride
Upper ball joint x2
Lower ball joint x2
Upper cushion, lower cushion, lower shock bushing. Qty 12 total
Sway bar - 2 for the bar, 2 for the links. Front and rear?

Less vibration and clunks
Front diff qty 3 bushings, qty 2 cushions.
Engine mount qty 2
Trans mount qty 1?

I can agree with all of this. Could probably be added to the FAQs. I've done most of this and the ride quality has changed a ton. I remember when i first drove it with new rear control arms and panhard bar. Noticeable difference. For AHC folks, obviously getting the AHC spec helps a ton with smooth ride whether thats new globes, new springs, adjusting torsion bars, or all of the above.

In terms of 06-07, I've only owned a '92 80 and my '06 100. I test drove a handful of other cruisers when I was searching. Price was never right so I didn't get them. I was very happy because when I saw the 06 pull up to the meet I knew I wanted that one. Red LED tailights and turn signals, the gray metallic wheels, that spoiler , all of it. I definitely fell in love with the aesthetics right away. It just looked more refined for some reason. So from a completely visual standpoint, I like the later models. In terms of drive train, I've never had an issue, its fast and strong enough for me.

 

[usedname]

I can agree with all of this. Could probably be added to the FAQs. I've done most of this and the ride quality has changed a ton. I remember when i first drove it with new rear control arms and panhard bar. Noticeable difference. For AHC folks, obviously getting the AHC spec helps a ton with smooth ride whether thats new globes, new springs, adjusting torsion bars, or all of the above.

In terms of 06-07, I've only owned a '92 80 and my '06 100. I test drove a handful of other cruisers when I was searching. Price was never right so I didn't get them. I was very happy because when I saw the 06 pull up to the meet I knew I wanted that one. Red LED tailights and turn signals, the gray metallic wheels, that spoiler , all of it. I definitely fell in love with the aesthetics right away. It just looked more refined for some reason. So from a completely visual standpoint, I like the later models. In terms of drive train, I've never had an issue, its fast and strong enough for me.

The problem with the AHC seems to be that the rear upper cushions appear to be a huge job, yeah? Whether you cut up the cargo area or not. Could you conceivably just change out all the cushions and bushings for the actuators except the rear top cushion? Or is that the highest yield one?

As far as ball joints, seems like replacing the entire control arm is the only way to get new OEM BJs, with the caveat that the in-frame one will still require some work right on the car. Seems like this saves time/labor, and you get a bunch of other new OEM bushings. Just priced all four front control arms on Impex - comes out to around $750 excluding shipping. I don't know what bushings I'd still be missing.

Agree with the 06-07 aesthetic. Spoiler, red lights, all sexier.

 

[Coin]

Cool. Do the steering rack ones help the steering feel any lighter? My rack was replaced in 2015 and I only see some slight darkening of the boots to indicate leaks, there's no roughness in the steering but a decent amount of 'dead' area in the center. Wondering if steering rack bushings would address that, and/or the heaviness of the wheel.

Similarly, I feel like the car has to 'settle' in to a turn/lane change on the highway. This is the same waggly feeling I got in my LS, which was fixed with a fat rear sway bar. Is that what all the other bushings fix under your 'tracking' heading?

Lighter? No, just removed the dead spot and made it more responsive to small inputs. It is a 20 yr old, 3-ton suv, so the steering won't be like a BMW.

Yes, the rear control arms and panhard bar bushings really make the rear feel planted. Before I replaced these, I felt the rear end wallowing around a lot, especially when changing lanes if one lane had a different slope.

Individually they make incremental increases to driving comfort and performance, but collectively they make a Huge difference.
Change one and feel the old rubber compared to the new. Mine were hard cracked. Hardness lets vibration and clunks through, while cracks allow the bushings to flex more than they should, making things sloppy.

 

[Red Beard]

The problem with the AHC seems to be that the rear upper cushions appear to be a huge job, yeah? Whether you cut up the cargo area or not. Could you conceivably just change out all the cushions and bushings for the actuators except the rear top cushion? Or is that the highest yield one?

As far as ball joints, seems like replacing the entire control arm is the only way to get new OEM BJs, with the caveat that the in-frame one will still require some work right on the car. Seems like this saves time/labor, and you get a bunch of other new OEM bushings. Just priced all four front control arms on Impex - comes out to around $750 excluding shipping. I don't know what bushings I'd still be missing.

Agree with the 06-07 aesthetic. Spoiler, red lights, all sexier.

Lots of opinions on that top shock cushions. I have the parts but I haven’t had the time to attack it yet. With a rusty rig, I’m planning on something not going to plan. I’d love to get them done though, they are pancakes and visibly cracked.

 

[usedname]

Alright so in addition the UCA/LCAs and the in-frame bushing 'No. 2', as well as the castle nuts and cotter pins, I added on the shock actuator cushions/bushings for the front (3 each), along with the other parts listed in this video.



Total cost on impex ~$840.

Seems like there's not much additional cost and at least part of the labor overlaps with the UCA/LCAs. I'll probably be in way over my head, but at least there's only two bushings each that I'll have to press in/out - the frame LCA bushing and the shock actuator bushings. Also I think it means I won't have to have any kind of separator/press for the ball joints? Just bolt em up?

And if none of that fixes the harshness, then... I guess I'll just suck it up.

 

[Coin]

You can rent a ball joint separator from any auto parts store. You’ll likely need it. Replacing the entire control arm assembly is certainly faster/easier than removing and pressing new bushings. Plus oem ball joints is nice.

I’m no mechanic, but I got it done. Just do some homework on this site and youtube and you’ll be fine. Honestly, there isn’t much you can screw up. Just get an alignment when done.

What was the topic of this thread again?

 

[suprarx7nut]

You can rent a ball joint separator from any auto parts store. You’ll likely need it. Replacing the entire control arm assembly is certainly faster/easier than removing and pressing new bushings. Plus oem ball joints is nice.

I’m no mechanic, but I got it done. Just do some homework on this site and youtube and you’ll be fine. Honestly, there isn’t much you can screw up. Just get an alignment when done.

What was the topic of this thread again?

I'm pretty sure we were talking about when Google bought Youtube. $1.6B purchase, now worth ~$25B and counting. Not bad.

Or was it LED taillights? I forget.

 

[Kabanstva]

I'm pretty sure we were talking about when Google bought Youtube. $1.6B purchase, now worth ~$25B and counting. Not bad.

Or was it LED taillights? I forget.

Is that LX sitting in low AHC mode in that pic?

 

[suprarx7nut]

Is that LX sitting in low AHC mode in that pic?

Yea, pretty sure that's in low. I dig the look.

 

[chamyota]

I'm pretty sure we were talking about when Google bought Youtube. $1.6B purchase, now worth ~$25B and counting. Not bad.

Or was it LED taillights? I forget.

That color is poppin jesus.

 

[dealmaker]

The problem with the AHC seems to be that the rear upper cushions appear to be a huge job, yeah? Whether you cut up the cargo area or not. Could you conceivably just change out all the cushions and bushings for the actuators except the rear top cushion? Or is that the highest yield one?

As far as ball joints, seems like replacing the entire control arm is the only way to get new OEM BJs, with the caveat that the in-frame one will still require some work right on the car. Seems like this saves time/labor, and you get a bunch of other new OEM bushings. Just priced all four front control arms on Impex - comes out to around $750 excluding shipping. I don't know what bushings I'd still be missing.

Agree with the 06-07 aesthetic. Spoiler, red lights, all sexier.

Are these the upper cushions you're talking about? My former (and not cheap) indy lexus mechanic didn't replace them when I had the shocks replaced on my LX, front and rear, over the past 9 yrs. I realized that after I gave his work close scrutiny. Instead of providing me with a reason, he simply replaced them (in the front only, most recently changed of the two pairs of shocks) with new, no charge. If he had a good reason not to replace them, I would've listened as I would've preferred the shock not be removed again if unnecessary.

 

[suprarx7nut]

That color is poppin jesus.

Thanks! It was well-kept before I got it (mostly, at least) and then it was paint corrected and the whole body minus the upper D pillar and roof is PPF'd. It's real easy to keep clean and has some pretty killer and uniform gloss to it. PPF is awesome stuff.

Are these the upper cushions you're talking about? My former (and not cheap) indy lexus mechanic didn't replace them when I had the shocks replaced on my LX, front and rear, over the past 9 yrs. I realized that after I gave his work close scrutiny. Instead of providing me with a reason, he simply replaced them with new, no charge. If he had a good reason not to replace them, I would've listened as I would've preferred the shock not be removed again if unnecessary.

View attachment 3325099

That's weird because I thought the cushions were supplied with the shocks. Why wouldn't he replace the cushions? lol.

Your pic shows the lower cushion. There's another above the mounting plate just out of sight in your shot.

 

[dealmaker]

Thanks! It was well-kept before I got it (mostly, at least) and then it was paint corrected and the whole body minus the upper D pillar and roof is PPF'd. It's real easy to keep clean and has some pretty killer and uniform gloss to it. PPF is awesome stuff.

That's weird because I thought the cushions were supplied with the shocks. Why wouldn't he replace the cushions? lol.

Your pic shows the lower cushion. There's another above the mounting plate just out of sight in your shot.

View attachment 3325131

My pic above was of one of my front shocks. Yes, the pair of cushions above the tower (in photo below) were replaced on the initial shock replacement and I assume come with new shocks. Couldn't wrap my head around why the one below/under the tower wasn't replaced though. Seems like if you're already in there and got it apart....right?? And that mechanic knows I'm OCD about stuff like that. Things like that are why I'm trying to do more of my own work. Ain't easy when you're pushing 60 and mostly just started learnin' slowly the past 10 yrs or so. Thankful for MUD!!

 

[usedname]

My pic above was of one of my front shocks. Yes, the pair of cushions above the tower (in photo below) were replaced on the initial shock replacement and I assume come with new shocks. Couldn't wrap my head around why the one below/under the tower wasn't replaced though. Seems like if you're already in there and got it apart....right?? And that mechanic knows I'm OCD about stuff like that. Things like that are why I'm trying to do more of my own work. Ain't easy when you're pushing 60 and mostly just started learnin' slowly the past 10 yrs or so. Thankful for MUD!!

View attachment 3325164

I think it is only the rear ones that are a pain to get to - did your mechanic replace the upper/lower cushions on those?

 

[dealmaker]

I think it is only the rear ones that are a pain to get to - did your mechanic replace the upper/lower cushions on those?

I hope so lol, I didn't even consider that they didn't...not sure how they'd remove the shock, assuming tehres a mounting nut or similar at the top. Those rears were replaced 9 yrs ago. I guess I'll take a peek tomorrow...

 

[Jermunji]

I'm pretty sure we were talking about when Google bought Youtube. $1.6B purchase, now worth ~$25B and counting. Not bad.

Or was it LED taillights? I forget.

@suprarx7nut What wheels are these? They look pretty good on the LX.


I frequently drive '22/'23 Dodge Ram, Chevy 1500 & 2500, and Ford F150 fleet trucks with <30k miles, and I ALWAYS love getting back into my LX with fully functioning AHC and 2-year-old flushed fluid. The seats are significantly more comfortable than anything newer and remind me of classic lazy boy recliners. The LX rattles less, road noise insulation is far better, and using 50% fewer buttons/knobs is soooo much nicer than having to constantly look down and study the layout to find the correct input to adjust.



Getting back to the original thread... I love the refinements of the '06/'07 years over the previous, but I'd simplify it down to the end goal. If I was looking for something that would do 85%+ of its duty as an everyday vehicle on paved surfaces then the latest gen is by far the best option. If looking for a platform to use as a base for a more hardcore vehicle about to get beat off-road or end up neglected with little TLC, then the '03-'05 would be my choice. Sometimes when I imagine myself out doing the Trans-American Trail on a two-week adventure, I long for the simplicity of non-AHC, non-interference 2UZ-FE, & ability to add the long-range auxiliary fuel tank. But then I walk out to the driveway and hop in my vehicle to go pick up the kids, hit up HEB for some groceries, head to the local lake, and fall in with the subtle luxuries of the '06 all over again.

 

[Jermunji]

Just off the top of my head.... some issues specific to the 06-07 Model Year (US/CAN Market). I'm not going to argue the issues, you can research them yourself and decide.

-No aux fuel tank options
-High altitude, no-start issue
-Interference Engine
-Fuel Pump is unique to 06-07 and seems to have more issues than 98-05
-MAF is also unique
-Air Induction Pump Issues (Bypass is possible)
-Most 06-07's have AHC--- pro or con depending on preference

Over the weekend, I've been obsessing over "needing" an auxiliary tank for my '06. Why are there no aux fuel tank options? What changed after the '04 years?

 

[hoser]

The "off the shelf tanks" are mostly manufactured in Australia. The VVT-i 2UZ-FE was never sold there. The fuel/evap system is different than our pre-2006. Not even the larger 40 gallon main tank is compatible. Might be possible to adapt but nobody has figured it out yet.