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Thanks 10' inboundI don’t think so. Too bad they only provide this short cable. You don’t have to use a up bend cable. There is space for a regular cable.
Sorry forgot to tag @BenCCHi Ben, with M34 to move Hazard/CDL to the right side, do you have a version of M2 that fits on the left side for a simple switch.
good point - this is me over-thinking an idea. I am putting a front switch for camera and figured the left side would be easier - but maybe the right is simpler and less jumbling things around. Scratch my idea, thanks.I don’t. Why do we need to move two switches to the right side and add one switch back to the left?
No I was just curious about your application.good point - this is me over-thinking an idea. I am putting a front switch for camera and figured the left side would be easier - but maybe the right is simpler and less jumbling things around. Scratch my idea, thanks.
Hey Ben, got the plate (looks great in matte black). And I also have (2x) of the 2.1A USB sockets per your recommendation.For Make 7 V1 which mounts two 12V outlets, the wiring is not hard. There is one 12V outlet in the center storage box. I don't have any device in there. I cut the wires and connected to the new 12V outlets which are mounted on Make 7 V1.
Step 1: Remove the #39 fuse in the kick panel fuse box.
Step 2: Open the retractable cupholder at the second row. I used electric tape to fix the retractable mechanism to get it out of my way.
Step 3: Cut the two wires that connect to the factory 12V outlet.
Step 4: Solder wires, positive to positive, negative to negative. (You don't have to cut the wires. You can use this to tap the wire.)
Step 5: Put everything back in place.
Step 6: Put #39 fuse back.
For Make 7 V2, the 12V outlet shares the same steps. The 120V AC outlet needs to have this harness. Connect Hot and Neutral to your inverter's Hot and Neutral, Ground to the chassis.
Please send an email to ben3dbuild@gmail.comHey Ben, got the plate (looks great in matte black). And I also have (2x) of the 2.1A USB sockets per your recommendation.
I have an ignorant question though: in step 4, you talk about soldering the wires, but unsure about which wires are being soldered together (and I've literally never soldered anything in my life).
Any insight you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
-Will
Ben, do you have a website or store? I have been searching this thread for a link…probably missed it.
Thanks!
I don't think he is the same Ben as @benc ...Dissent Off-road. Quality Toyota Armor. Explore with Confidence.
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Also check his signature line
Maybe I’m missing something here, but what does dissent have to do with this? I don’t see his products on their site? Signature line? You mean his email? Thanks!Dissent Off-road. Quality Toyota Armor. Explore with Confidence.
Dissent specializes in manufacturing the highest quality off-road armor for Toyota 4runner, Tacoma, Land Cruiser, Lexus LX 470, LX 570 & GX 470. Aluminum & Steel Off-Road Bumpers. Explore with confidence when you equip your vehicle with Dissent Off-road. Tested off-road, Made in the USA.dissentoffroad.com
Also check his signature line
Yeah man @bucfl was mistaken. This Ben doesn't have a store/website. This thread is his "site" if you will. Check out the first page of posts and you'll see lots of the products. Then just send him an email with what you want to the email he listed in post 2,298 (right above your initial post asking how to purchase...)Maybe I’m missing something here, but what does dissent have to do with this? I don’t see his products on their site? Signature line? You mean his email? Thanks!
Got it, thanks! That’s what I’ll do! Too bad Ben has that crazy PhD day job engineering stuff, he should be designing and printing stuff for cruiser heads all day!Yeah man @bucfl was mistaken. This Ben doesn't have a store/website. This thread is his "site" if you will. Check out the first page of posts and you'll see lots of the products. Then just send him an email with what you want to the email he listed in post 2,298 (right above your initial post asking how to purchase...)
Did the hazard switch you used need re-wiring?Installed @BenCC’s M2V2 Left Ram Ball mount and a phone holder. Relocated my Hazard and CDL switches to the left side panel. More complicated than it seems... had to re-wire some stuff, add a relay, and modify the internals of the new CDL switch to be push-on/push-off instead of momentary.
View attachment 2367672View attachment 2367673View attachment 2367674
Hazard switch P/N is 84332-26120, CDL switch P/N is 84725-35050.
Ball arm is:
Amazon.com : PULUZ 1inch Underwater Ball Clamp 2 Mount Hole Clip Adapter CNC Aluminum Alloy Click for Diving Underwater Arm System Diving Tray DJI Osmo Action GoPro LED Light (Black) : Camera & Photo
Amazon.com : PULUZ 1inch Underwater Ball Clamp 2 Mount Hole Clip Adapter CNC Aluminum Alloy Click for Diving Underwater Arm System Diving Tray DJI Osmo Action GoPro LED Light (Black) : Camera & Photowww.amazon.com
Phone holder is:
Amazon.com: TACKFORM Motorcycle Phone Mount - 1" Ball Connection - Heavy Duty Spring Loaded Phone Holder. Compatible with RAM and ARKON 1 Inch Ball System. Optional Tether Included
Amazon.com: TACKFORM Motorcycle Phone Mount - 1" Ball Connection - Heavy Duty Spring Loaded Phone Holder. Compatible with RAM and ARKON 1 Inch Ball System. Optional Tether Includedwww.amazon.com
For the Hazard switch you only need to extend the wire to the new location. This wire gets grounded by the switch to activate the flashing, and there are lots of ground wires/points in the new location.Did the hazard switch you used need re-wiring?
Thanks!For the Hazard switch you only need to extend the wire to the new location. This wire gets grounded by the switch to activate the flashing, and there are lots of ground wires/points in the new location.
The CDL switch needed some fancy wiring, an external relay, and an internal mechanical mod to make that substitution work.