Builds Benjamin’s 3D Prints Build (10 Viewers)

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I don’t think so. Too bad they only provide this short cable. You don’t have to use a up bend cable. There is space for a regular cable.
Thanks 10' inbound
 
I don’t. Why do we need to move two switches to the right side and add one switch back to the left?
good point - this is me over-thinking an idea. I am putting a front switch for camera and figured the left side would be easier - but maybe the right is simpler and less jumbling things around. Scratch my idea, thanks.
 
good point - this is me over-thinking an idea. I am putting a front switch for camera and figured the left side would be easier - but maybe the right is simpler and less jumbling things around. Scratch my idea, thanks.
No I was just curious about your application.

Post in thread 'Benjamin’s 3D Prints Build'
Builds - Benjamin’s 3D Prints Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/benjamins-3d-prints-build.1171700/post-12694898

I can print one of this in mirror so you can have one switch on the driver side.
 
For Make 7 V1 which mounts two 12V outlets, the wiring is not hard. There is one 12V outlet in the center storage box. I don't have any device in there. I cut the wires and connected to the new 12V outlets which are mounted on Make 7 V1.

Step 1: Remove the #39 fuse in the kick panel fuse box.
Step 2: Open the retractable cupholder at the second row. I used electric tape to fix the retractable mechanism to get it out of my way.
Step 3: Cut the two wires that connect to the factory 12V outlet.
Step 4: Solder wires, positive to positive, negative to negative. (You don't have to cut the wires. You can use this to tap the wire.)
Step 5: Put everything back in place.
Step 6: Put #39 fuse back.

For Make 7 V2, the 12V outlet shares the same steps. The 120V AC outlet needs to have this harness. Connect Hot and Neutral to your inverter's Hot and Neutral, Ground to the chassis.
Hey Ben, got the plate (looks great in matte black). And I also have (2x) of the 2.1A USB sockets per your recommendation.

I have an ignorant question though: in step 4, you talk about soldering the wires, but unsure about which wires are being soldered together (and I've literally never soldered anything in my life).

Any insight you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
-Will
 
Hey Ben, got the plate (looks great in matte black). And I also have (2x) of the 2.1A USB sockets per your recommendation.

I have an ignorant question though: in step 4, you talk about soldering the wires, but unsure about which wires are being soldered together (and I've literally never soldered anything in my life).

Any insight you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
-Will
Please send an email to ben3dbuild@gmail.com
 
Ben, do you have a website or store? I have been searching this thread for a link…probably missed it.

Thanks!
 
I just replaced speakers in my LC and need to either majorly modify the sail panels or make / get someone else to make a 3D printed option. Let me know if you are interested - new tweeters are way larger than stock at 1.8” diameter.
 
Ben, do you have a website or store? I have been searching this thread for a link…probably missed it.

Thanks!


Also check his signature line
 

Also check his signature line
Maybe I’m missing something here, but what does dissent have to do with this? I don’t see his products on their site? Signature line? You mean his email? Thanks!
 
Maybe I’m missing something here, but what does dissent have to do with this? I don’t see his products on their site? Signature line? You mean his email? Thanks!
Yeah man @bucfl was mistaken. This Ben doesn't have a store/website. This thread is his "site" if you will. Check out the first page of posts and you'll see lots of the products. Then just send him an email with what you want to the email he listed in post 2,298 (right above your initial post asking how to purchase...)
 
Yeah man @bucfl was mistaken. This Ben doesn't have a store/website. This thread is his "site" if you will. Check out the first page of posts and you'll see lots of the products. Then just send him an email with what you want to the email he listed in post 2,298 (right above your initial post asking how to purchase...)
Got it, thanks! That’s what I’ll do! Too bad Ben has that crazy PhD day job engineering stuff, he should be designing and printing stuff for cruiser heads all day!
 
Has anyone installed the window switches in an 03+ LX? Looks like the physical switch and plastic piece are different between early and later models
 
Installed @BenCC’s M2V2 Left Ram Ball mount and a phone holder. Relocated my Hazard and CDL switches to the left side panel. More complicated than it seems... had to re-wire some stuff, add a relay, and modify the internals of the new CDL switch to be push-on/push-off instead of momentary.

View attachment 2367672View attachment 2367673View attachment 2367674

Hazard switch P/N is 84332-26120, CDL switch P/N is 84725-35050.

Ball arm is:

Phone holder is:
Did the hazard switch you used need re-wiring?
 
Did the hazard switch you used need re-wiring?
For the Hazard switch you only need to extend the wire to the new location. This wire gets grounded by the switch to activate the flashing, and there are lots of ground wires/points in the new location.

The CDL switch needed some fancy wiring, an external relay, and an internal mechanical mod to make that substitution work.
 
For the Hazard switch you only need to extend the wire to the new location. This wire gets grounded by the switch to activate the flashing, and there are lots of ground wires/points in the new location.

The CDL switch needed some fancy wiring, an external relay, and an internal mechanical mod to make that substitution work.
Thanks!
 
Working with @ryan470 on Method front caps. This is the first prototype. Ryan will test it on his truck.

1688955502118.png


1688955515474.png
 

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