Intermittent Oil Light coming on. (1 Viewer)

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After reading your posts someone with no or little automotive experience would think that the dipstick is unreliable and should be disregarded in favor of the light. My light has never illuminated in the 7 years I’ve had my 80 and per the dipstick, the oil is very near one quart low at the 5k oil change. So, if the dipstick reads full but the light is on oil should be added until the light extinguishes?

In my world the oil level sensor does not exist as this 80 is the only vehicle I’ve ever owned with an oil level sensor which I perceive to be fluff.
The sensor is not very precise, as it is a float riding in a 2+ gallon capacity oil pan, subject to sloshing. It's amazing that it works as well as it does, when it does. It's intended to warn you when the level is low, not to determine the exact oil level. On some trucks it will start to flicker or light up if the oil is not even a quart low, and in others it might not indicate anything until it's several quarts low. I pay attention to my dipstick when I do oil changes and after every run, and my truck will burn/leak a quart every 500-800 miles. A quart low barely registers on the dipstick, and many people wouldn't bother to add oil until the level is towards the bottom of the hashed area- but at that point it's lost a lot more than they realize, IMO. Do you measure how much oil you get out of the pan when you change the oil? I do, which is how I have a good idea of how low it is based on the dipstick. If you don't measure how much you get out, you might want to once- you might be surprised at how low you really are after 5000 miles. And your light may not work at all, that's very common. On the other hand, maybe your truck really only uses a quart per oil change, what the hell do I know? I'm just trying to help people who don't understand what the oil level light is telling them, and to understand how it works.
 
The sensor is not very precise, as it is a float riding in a 2+ gallon capacity oil pan, subject to sloshing. It's amazing that it works as well as it does, when it does. It's intended to warn you when the level is low, not to determine the exact oil level. On some trucks it will start to flicker or light up if the oil is not even a quart low, and in others it might not indicate anything until it's several quarts low. I pay attention to my dipstick when I do oil changes and after every run, and my truck will burn/leak a quart every 500-800 miles. A quart low barely registers on the dipstick, and many people wouldn't bother to add oil until the level is towards the bottom of the hashed area- but at that point it's lost a lot more than they realize, IMO. Do you measure how much oil you get out of the pan when you change the oil? I do, which is how I have a good idea of how low it is based on the dipstick. If you don't measure how much you get out, you might want to once- you might be surprised at how low you really are after 5000 miles. And your light may not work at all, that's very common. On the other hand, maybe your truck really only uses a quart per oil change, what the hell do I know? I'm just trying to help people who don't understand what the oil level light is telling them, and to understand how it works.
Thank you for the information. On most of my Toyota’s the hashed area on the dipstick is representative of roughly 1 quart from the bottom to the top, and I was taught the hashed area is called the “safe zone”. Ideally the level is near the top of the “safe zone” but anywhere n the hashed area is generally OK. In my case when I got the truck it was a hair above the middle of the hashed area. Now it is a hair below the middle. Haven’t had the truck long, just about 1500 miles. The oil is medium honey colored, relatively clean, but I’m debating on wether to change it because it is some unknown number of years old, or if I should run it a little more and then change it, in which case adding a quart or so makes sense.
 
Thank you for the information. On most of my Toyota’s the hashed area on the dipstick is representative of roughly 1 quart from the bottom to the top, and I was taught the hashed area is called the “safe zone”. Ideally the level is near the top of the “safe zone” but anywhere n the hashed area is generally OK. In my case when I got the truck it was a hair above the middle of the hashed area. Now it is a hair below the middle. Haven’t had the truck long, just about 1500 miles. The oil is medium honey colored, relatively clean, but I’m debating on wether to change it because it is some unknown number of years old, or if I should run it a little more and then change it, in which case adding a quart or so makes sense.
Just change it and get on with life.
 
Just change it and get on with life.
Yep, measure what you get out, vs. the 8.5 quarts that should be in there, and along with the oil level on the stick, file the info somewhere in your mind so you have a reference. Then see what the stick looks like after you add the correct amount of oil. That's where it should be. Of course with that much oil it doesn't really matter if it's a quart or two low, but that's your cushion. And be happy your oil level light works as it should, it might keep you out of trouble someday.
 
Some simple input from similar experience. Oil light came on Down grade into the desert southwest from mountains.
Checked oil and okay. Light went off on flat areas. Light back on getting to Sacramento from SW desert visiting.
Dealer diagnose, oil sender unit. Purchased and installed with moms tools.
Back to Denver, oil comes back on.

Take to My mechanic Yes oil float sending issues.
  1. Outer seal hard as a rock, replace.
  2. Contacts on float dirty
  3. Float had a crack. My issue as it would fill up and then empty.
  4. Solution in 2006 $300 or a zip tie to hold float up. Zip tie for me
  5. Currently zip tie still working at 350,000 miles
  6. Yes I check oil every fill up and add some oil.
  7. When I did head gasket 276K 1998, market and situation different. Only did parts. No rings or head work.
  8. Float is good idea and have looked over the last 15 years, price just goes up.
YKNOT
 
I've had mine come on momentarily a few times not long after a cold start in the mornings. Always at mid-high RPM, driving up a bit of an incline.

I've checked oil levels, and it's always well within the hatched zone on the dipstick, so nothing to worry about.
Kind of reassuring that it actually works, and if it came on and stayed on, I'd definitely investigate.
 
Well I broke down and added a quart of oil. Light is staying off, and oil level is about 3/4 of the way up the hash mark zone. Since there is no electrical fault in the oil
Level indicator circuit, I better address some actual problems.

Now to track down fault in the door open indicator that causes the key ring and door open indicator to come on when I go around right hand corners.
 
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Well I broke down and added a quart of oil. Light is staying off, and oil level is about 3/4 of the way up the hash mark zone. Since there is no electrical fault in the oil
Level indicator circuit, I better address some actual problems.

Now to track down fault in the door open indicator that causes the key ring and door open indicator to come on when I go around right hand corners.
Look at the RF door sensor.
 
Look at the RF door sensor.
I definitely will. Thank you for the tip.

In checking all of the door sensors one by one, I noticed the right rear doesn’t do anything. No lights come on with that door.
I wonder if the single wire is disconnected somewhere inside the rear quarter panel, and makes contact with the chassis when I take corners.

Haven’t had time to start tracing wires and looking for faults on the 80 yet. Maybe next weekend. My wife’s hundred has some more pressing issues to be able to pass our annual safety inspection ASAP. The High beams are not shutting off no matter the position of the high beam switch.
 
Wait,... so you're saying that the intermittent Oil Light on the dash went out when you added a quart of oil?
 
Wait,... so you're saying that the intermittent Oil Light on the dash went out when you added a quart of oil?

Yes, that's what he said:


"Well I broke down and added a quart of oil. Light is staying off, and oil level is about 3/4 of the way up the hash mark zone."
 
Yes, that's what he said:


"Well I broke down and added a quart of oil. Light is staying off, and oil level is about 3/4 of the way up the hash mark zone."
This thread should be in the FAQ. We've discovered the answer to a question that had eluded us all for decades. Who'd a thunk 'Add some oil' would be the answer?

@MauiUZJ - why not fill it all the way now?

Also- you were halfway down the hashed area. You added 1 quart, which brought the oil to the 3/4 mark on the stick. That indicates that the hashed area of the stick represents 4 quarts of oil. That tracks with what I've seen, and should give pause to folks that let the level approach the lower end of the stick.
 
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(*I'm glad somebody got my sense of humor, @-Spike- !)
 
Correct level is?

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This thread should be in the FAQ. We've discovered the answer to a question that had eluded us all for decades. Who'd a thunk 'Add some oil' would be the answer?
^^^^

My left rear tire was visibly 'low' last week. I put some air in it.....and it came back up. Can you believe that?

I swear its true.....!
 
Correct level is?
Depends on your definition of 'correct'. Full capacity is the top of the hashed area. If I have the hood open and I see that it's not full, I make it full. On the street, you could run it 4 quarts low (bottom of the hashed area) without an issue, probably. Take it off road and hit some steep grades or off-camber spots, and the pick-up tube may draw air.
 
This thread should be in the FAQ. We've discovered the answer to a question that had eluded us all for decades. Who'd a thunk 'Add some oil' would be the answer?

@MauiUZJ - why not fill it all the way now?

Also- you were halfway down the hashed area. You added 1 quart, which brought the oil to the 3/4 mark on the stick. That indicates that the hashed area of the stick represents 4 quarts of oil. That tracks with what I've seen, and should give pause to folks that let the level approach the lower end of the stick.
Very funny guys. I knew adding oil would solve it once I learned what the light was. It’s just that Oil is $8-10 a qt. Near my house, and I have a 55gallon drum of 10-30 at my baseyard. Planning to add in a flush, and change the oil in a week or so anyway. The 80 cruiser can be parked all week, unless it’s time for a dual cruiser Offroad adventure. Since I got my wife’s 100 series going the 80 can wait in the driveway for some more significant baseline maintenance.

I Haven’t spent any real time with an 80 series in about 7 years before this month when I got this one running. This one is my first FZJ. I have about fifty cars I’m dealing with at my base yard lot, so this 80 is only getting little bits of attention, and will continue to improve. Not that hard to make improvements on its condition considering I towed it from a the edge of a paddock of the largest ranch around here; not running, and with a bullet hole through the hood.

Haven’t decided what to do about the bullet hole yet. It looks big, like someone shot the truck with a 45. I can stick my index finger through it.

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Yes, that's what he said:


"Well I broke down and added a quart of oil. Light is staying off, and oil level is about 3/4 of the way up the hash mark zone."
Yep. It hurt to buy that quart of oil cause it was over $10 here at a country store after hours when the nearest Napa was closed; it was especially painful since I have a 55 gallon drum of oil at my base yard. But since I did not plan on driving the cruiser to town any time soon, and it would take like $15 in gas to and from the base yard... Just need to get a minute or 2 between the other 50 cars I have to give this Landcruiser some more attention.
 
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