Builds Rosie the 40 - Tilda Bogue Service Station (3 Viewers)

[locklaw]

Whats the little shiny black box on the firewall just behind the 2 small heater hoses ?

Trouble light socket. Differs on early rigs

 

[wngrog]

Did the early fuse blocks have a mylar/clear isolator to prevent unwanted grounding to the tub?

Not that I know of. Each attachment post is used as a ground for the lights.

I took it all apart and put it back and I’ve got all sorts of gremlins.

One side bright does not work. No individual blinkers unless the hazard switch is on.

I’m sure this is somehow ground stuff but the LEDs come with separated grounds so it would seem that is covered. Never dealt with LEDs so I’m flying blind.

I think I’ll step away for a bit. Nothing I do changes anything.

 

[pb4ugo]

For a lot of years I used to run rubber hoses to my frt heater and never had a problem with them. About 15 yrs ago a passenger ask me what would happen to him if one of those heater hoses burst. Since then, I decided to run copper lines along with the factory hose covers over all the hose junctions.

 

[locklaw]

About to add this beautiful OEM fuse box into the truck.
View attachment 3316825

@Fourrunner cables View attachment 3316827
@cooleman Fusable link since these years did not have one
View attachment 3316828

@ToyotaMatt overflow bottle
View attachment 3316826


Good news is the hazards now work (in the rear). I’ve got the fender wires jacked up and have to redo. This truck also has 2 flasher relays and you need two modified ones from coolerman to make the LEDs not fast flash. One is in the standard location. The other is on the passenger firewall.

For what it's worth, on the new 70 series an 8ohm inline resistor before each LED bulb works a treat and stops the fast flashing. Easier to wire that in than to have to mess with custom LED flasher units. Might be good to swap out the flashers for Toyota's modern updated flasher which is less finicky.

 

[B y r o n]

. . . I’m sure this is somehow ground stuff but the LEDs come with separated grounds so it would seem that is covered. Never dealt with LEDs so I’m flying blind.

I think I’ll step away for a bit. Nothing I do changes anything.

Something to be aware of with LED's. Unlike a regular bulb that will light no matter which connector is positive, LED's are sensitive and must have the power applied to the right lead or they will not light.

 

[wngrog]

For what it's worth, on the new 70 series an 8ohm inline resistor before each LED bulb works a treat and stops the fast flashing. Easier to wire that in than to have to mess with custom LED flasher units. Might be good to swap out the flashers for Toyota's modern updated flasher which is less finicky.

I have two new relays provided for these types of bulbs from Coolerman that eliminates the need for the individual resistors (supposedly)

 

[wngrog]

Something to be aware of with LED's. Unlike a regular bulb that will light no matter which connector is positive, LED's are sensitive and must have the power applied to the right lead or they will not light.

They all light (except driver High beam). They just don’t light correctly.

 

[locklaw]

I have two new relays provided for these types of bulbs from Coolerman that eliminates the need for the individual resistors (supposedly)

Understood. I have had good and bad luck with the LED spec flasher units but only success with resistors, hence the suggestion. A VDJ70 is not much more complex than a 40, but equally as stubborn. Good luck!

 

[PAToyota]

Something to be aware of with LED's. Unlike a regular bulb that will light no matter which connector is positive, LED's are sensitive and must have the power applied to the right lead or they will not light.

Curiously, I have run into LEDs that work both ways. The first time "the kid" wired up the light, I looked at what he had done, and told him he did it backwards. "But it works," he said. Sure enough, it did. So I applied power the other way and it still worked. It's not supposed to do that!

 

[B y r o n]

Curiously, I have run into LEDs that work both ways. The first time "the kid" wired up the light, I looked at what he had done, and told him he did it backwards. "But it works," he said. Sure enough, it did. So I applied power the other way and it still worked. It's not supposed to do that!

There are devices/lights that have polarity correction built in so they will work even if the polarity is reversed.

 

[wngrog]

I pulled the lights out and confirmed they do work with my power probe. As for the reverse polarity thing, yeah my 100 with Stark LEDs only works if you plug them in backwards.

On the 69, confirm this please.

Parking light mode (one click out on the headlight switch) should only active the two small lights in the grill, not the fender lights, correct? Those fender lights are only blinkers?

 

[cruiserdan]

If memory serves the fender lamps are turn only. Look at the bulb. If it's single filament it's turn only.

 

[wngrog]

If memory serves the fender lamps are turn only. Look at the bulb. If it's single filament it's turn only.

Well it’s an LED thing a ma jig now but I do still have the old ones……thanks for the tip

Edit. The old ones are double filament.

 

[wngrog]

Never go to bed angry they say. Yeah well **** them.

Done for the day.

 

[cruiserdan]

Well it’s an LED thing a ma jig now but I do still have the old ones……thanks for the tip

Edit. The old ones are double filament.

In that case, yes they should come on ( on the low side)

 

[middlecalf]

Great score on those seat belts and fuse box.

 

[wngrog]

Rosie got towed out for some sun today while I helped a friend do a Dobinsons lift on his 200

I’d rather do leaf springs

 

[wngrog]

Back on Rosie.

Someone in another thread asked how to make the Koito harnesses work with the enclosed light buckets on the early 40s.

This is how I do it.

Pull the drivers light and pull the female plug and its associated wires out. Replace the rubber plug if it pulls out.

Cut the 3 wires coming across the grill in 1/2 and unsheath the wires from the big black rubber stuff.

Feed the bare wires back through the grommet and leave the new female plug in the bucket

Next just trim the 3 grill wires down to fit the size of the grill and then reloom

Take the female plug and harness and install it on the fender harness opposite of its colors on the 40 factory harness.

Passenger side.

This truck has an LED bulb so there is length to drill a 1” hole in the bucket and feed the male plug out.

Matt sells the perfect grommet for this. It’s for the rear door of a 40 I think

If you don’t have LEDs you just replace the U ends that go on the fender bar with spades that will plug into the female harness.

Last, plug the new male into the piece you robbed from the drivers side.

Clear as mud?

I dickered with the lights a bit more. Everything works now but the blinkers.

I’m tabling it and moving to other stuff. Will report back on what the fix is when I find it

 

[wngrog]

Next couple of days will be just hunkered down wiring.

I am waiting on adapter for the Sniper but I can pre wire a lot of it

Also we have a beautiful Dakota RTX going in as well.

Justin at Redline sent me these two adapters to 90 out the Dakota oil pressure sensor away from the headers

One of the adapters in the Dakota kit works here on the top of the head for temp

Ran the manual speedo cable. I’m not a big fan of the GPS adapter.

@ToyotaMatt sent some colored bulbs for the signals. Not sure if the color will overpower the red lenses but we shall see

Main sensors are all wired in and trimmed for length. Now I’ll start filling in all the rest of those holes as needed

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Next couple of days will be just hunkered down wiring.

I am waiting on adapter for the Sniper but I can pre wire a lot of it

Also we have a beautiful Dakota RTX going in as well.

Justin at Redline sent me these two adapters to 90 out the Dakota oil pressure sensor away from the headers
View attachment 3319596
One of the adapters in the Dakota kit works here on the top of the head for temp
View attachment 3319599
Ran the manual speedo cable. I’m not a big fan of the GPS adapter.
View attachment 3319600
@ToyotaMatt sent some colored bulbs for the signals. Not sure if the color will overpower the red lenses but we shall see
View attachment 3319597
Main sensors are all wired in and trimmed for length. Now I’ll start filling in all the rest of those holes as needed
View attachment 3319598

- the 25mm Grommet w/ the tape-off nipple spout is for the RED rear wheel well side marker sub-harness the feed up through each side , also feeding the tag lamp's / lamp depending on year starting in 1969- later , i like the sparky new use application the read-lamp bucket H4 plug feeds , good show !


- the low-profile Color-Temperature RED and Green LED's for the in-dash indicator lamps , they have a like ZERO room inside once the oem socket is snapped up in place , and such are a LOW-LUMEN so are to not over-power the same in kind color tone KOITo lenses , rather give off a warm rich cozy glow that all the early-era folks can really take a fond liking to ....

- gotta go LED baby steps with Nolan's " patina-club" crowd


- this tech. image below is the exact low profile red LED;s Nolan is holding in his hand above ,,,,

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