Temple Dealer wants $4,200.00 for a new exhort system, parts are 8-10 weeks out. (1 Viewer)

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truthdetector said:
I was able to purchase 99% of the parts (rear O2 sensor is NLA) for my exhaust from one of the dealers who sells them at a discount, rather than a markup and also has free shipping on orders > $75. I'd post a link to the site, but they appear to be in the middle of "upgrading" their parts ordering system and it's not working very well this week.
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please message me the link or post it here, and I'll keep checking.
 
BILT4ME said:
the gaskets between cats come apart and the bolts rust out
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On my 97 with all original exhaust and 300k miles this was the only source of leaks that I found. I made a little effort to resurface the sealing surfaces and smooth them out but otherwise the leak fix just involved cutting the rusty bolts off, installing new, OEM gaskets and nuts/bolts and then bolting it back together.
 
@TheLastLatin
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. Quik. - https://app.quik.auto/j/a42c41a5 see video from Toyota mechanic.
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Man, that is the vaguest, shíttiest video possible.

Hard to tell the true condition of your exhaust from that, but the rest of the cruiser looks pretty clean underneath (oil leaks aside).
The whole deal is a massive red flag.
Time to find a mechanic that knows cruisers and isn't gonna bend you over without lube
 
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Did some online shopping and assuming I NEED everything they listed I could get the price down to $2833.10. Pictures incoming.
 
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Gasket and bolts defiantly look need edging to be replaced between the catalytic converter and muffler.
 
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Main muffler doesn’t look too bad, looks like surface rust. Not pretty but I don’t think it’s about to fall off or anything.
 
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Pip sub assembly exhaust front the most expensive part of this thing doesn’t look so bad to me, the heat shields have some corrosion but I’m not seeing any structural integrity issues.
 
jpoole said:
On my 97 with all original exhaust and 300k miles this was the only source of leaks that I found. I made a little effort to resurface the sealing surfaces and smooth them out but otherwise the leak fix just involved cutting the rusty bolts off, installing new, OEM gaskets and nuts/bolts and then bolting it back together.
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Thinking this is all i need,.
 
You should go to a good exhaust shop or automotive shop and have them asses what it needs. Looks pretty good shape realistically. Get them to replace all the gaskets and hardware and if any individual pieces need replacing just do them.
 
Looks fine to me some stuff is just a little crusty...complaining of an exhaust smell from outside doesn't mean much, the wind could have been pushing it back toward the passenger side

Muffler shop can assess it for any leaks at joints
 
I would say the bolts and one gasket between the catalytic converter would be helpful. I cant weld myself but I would think any muffler shop could fab some new end plates if what's still there isn't salvageable.
 
Doesn't look bad overall.
  • Hard to tell from the photos but the hanger bracket on the rear of the muffler may need some attention. The muffler on my 80 was otherwise in good shape so I removed it and welded that rear muffler hanger bracket back on then reinstalled. No issues in the 80k miles and 6 years since that repair.
  • Originally there were flanges that bolted the pipes together between the two cats. Looks like that connection was replaced with a piece of pipe welded in. Nothing wrong with this fix if it's not leaking or showing signs of cracking/failure but it's a change from stock.
  • You should specifically check all of your muffler/exhaust hanger bushings. Unless they've been replaced I'd guess all of the rubber exhaust bushings need to be replaced now. Keeping the exhaust system secure helps avoid breaks/leaks/failures.
    • 17567-17010 - the bushings, there are 3
    • 90179-06007 - the nuts, there are 12
  • I don't see any signs of active leaking which often show as soot streaks running down from the leak or similar. With the engine idling you can typically feel larger leaks blowing on your hand and for smaller ones you can have someone apply some back-pressure to the system (partially block the tailpipe) while you then spray soapy water on joints/etc. to see if you spot leaks. This is better done when the exhaust isn't hot so that the soapy water doesn't just steam off and so you don't get burned.
  • Even though the joint/flanges after the cats are eroded a good bit I wouldn't mess with them unless it's actually leaking. You can fix that when/if it starts leaking.
Maybe the fumes your wife is reporting are just from the normal tailpipe emissions? 80s run a bit rich (extra fuel) on startup when the cats are cold so this is definitely possible. Ruling out exhaust leaks is a good idea but it seems like you may not have any large enough to cause what she is reporting. A few other smell sources that she may be noticing:
  • If your rig is running excessively rich the exhaust will smell more before the cats heat up and can burn off the excess. What's your MPG typically? Not trying to open a can of worms here but if the smell is only noticeable when cold this is a possibility. Could need a tuneup, new o2s or may just be normal 80 series operation. Track your mpgs for a few fuel tanks and then see if they compare favorably to what folks report but keep in mind driving style shifts the numbers a lot.
  • If you grease your rear driveshaft it will sling the excess on the exhaust and this will cause burning oil smell when the rig is hot but is likely not an issue on cold start though.
 
jpoole said:
Doesn't look bad overall.
  • Hard to tell from the photos but the hanger bracket on the rear of the muffler may need some attention. The muffler on my 80 was otherwise in good shape so I removed it and welded that rear muffler hanger bracket back on then reinstalled. No issues in the 80k miles and 6 years since that repair.
  • Originally there were flanges that bolted the pipes together between the two cats. Looks like that connection was replaced with a piece of pipe welded in. Nothing wrong with this fix if it's not leaking or showing signs of cracking/failure but it's a change from stock.
  • You should specifically check all of your muffler/exhaust hanger bushings. Unless they've been replaced I'd guess all of the rubber exhaust bushings need to be replaced now. Keeping the exhaust system secure helps avoid breaks/leaks/failures.
    • 17567-17010 - the bushings, there are 3
    • 90179-06007 - the nuts, there are 12
  • I don't see any signs of active leaking which often show as soot streaks running down from the leak or similar. With the engine idling you can typically feel larger leaks blowing on your hand and for smaller ones you can have someone apply some back-pressure to the system (partially block the tailpipe) while you then spray soapy water on joints/etc. to see if you spot leaks. This is better done when the exhaust isn't hot so that the soapy water doesn't just steam off and so you don't get burned.
  • Even though the joint/flanges after the cats are eroded a good bit I wouldn't mess with them unless it's actually leaking. You can fix that when/if it starts leaking.
Maybe the fumes your wife is reporting are just from the normal tailpipe emissions? 80s run a bit rich (extra fuel) on startup when the cats are cold so this is definitely possible. Ruling out exhaust leaks is a good idea but it seems like you may not have any large enough to cause what she is reporting. A few other smell sources that she may be noticing:
  • If your rig is running excessively rich the exhaust will smell more before the cats heat up and can burn off the excess. What's your MPG typically? Not trying to open a can of worms here but if the smell is only noticeable when cold this is a possibility. Could need a tuneup, new o2s or may just be normal 80 series operation. Track your mpgs for a few fuel tanks and then see if they compare favorably to what folks report but keep in mind driving style shifts the numbers a lot.
  • If you grease your rear driveshaft it will sling the excess on the exhaust and this will cause burning oil smell when the rig is hot but is likely not an issue on cold start though.
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Thank you for the detailed feedback., its greatly apricated. People like yourself are what makes ih8mud an amazing resource.
 
TheLastLatin said:
View attachment 3315254
Did some online shopping and assuming I NEED everything they listed I could get the price down to $2833.10. Pictures incoming.
Click to expand...

Take that list to the Parts Manager and tell him/her (or should that be "them"?) that you'd really like to spend your money locally. You could get a deal.
 
TheLastLatin said:
Fastest easiest way to get all the part numbers that might be needed, didn’t cost me anything for them to look at it and give me a parts list but a little time. Thank you, honestly.
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Prolly not the fastest or easiest to get all the part numbers, if we’re being honest. It also costs your time and gas to have them look at it. I’m also actually surprised they looked at it for free. All the ones around me want a minimum $100+ to look at anything.
 
Now that you've done your diligence and had Toyota look at it, bring it to a chain exhaust place (Midas? Meineke?) And then to Bill's excellent custom exhaust, oil change, and cake pop emporium to have options and different prices. Don't tell them Toyota said whole system. Just tell them you want an inspection on the exhaust and a quote for any need repairs/parts replacements.

Edit to ask a question. On the quote (video) are they charging $350 to clean up and find oil leaks? That isn't to fix it? That's ****ing nuts.
 
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