Oil in Coolant on 2F-- looking for tribal knowledge (1 Viewer)

[StinkyPig]

78 2F with unknown miles. Sniper system and the old bitch runs like a top! Doesn’t burn oil. But needs valve seals. Last year, the coolant was flushed because I noted higher than normal temps on a hot day when climbing a hill. 3 row rad in good shape. Recent water pump. Found crud in the block by the rear driver side drain. Flushed liberally and replaced with new fluid. Fresh oil change as well. One issue noted afterword’s...

One morning before hitting the trail...on startup, the white smoke erupted from the tail pipe for about 30 seconds. Bad! A LOT! Then it magically stopped. I surmised this was from loosening the head bolts up front to install a new power steering bracket? Drove the rest of the summer HARD with no issues!

Out of winter storage, fresh oil change and a few drives noted signs of coolant pushing past the overflow tank top on a warm day. Saw 205F on the Sniper screen. Ran a vapor check on the coolant for combustion gases and it tested NEGATIVE. However, there is fresh oil in the coolant! No signs of coolant in the oil that I can see. Bore-scoped the cylinders and see nothing unusual. A couple scores on the walls but not crazy. Cross hatch visible. Piston tops are clean and dry. Tops of valves have crud accumulated as usual.

I’m guessing a block issue or maybe an oil cooler issue (praying oil cooler). The one time white smoke is suspect but I can’t get oil into the coolant from a head gasket failing on a 2F oil system with no evidence of blow-by?

Thoughts or experiences appreciated. I hate to take the old girl down for the summer!

 

[SteveH]

You have done all your homework as far as doping this out. How about a compression test, and/or applying 100 psi shop air to each cylinder in turn and watching for bubbles in the overflow tank (making sure the overflow system is airtight and the radiator cap is new)?

If it needs valve stem seals, it wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the head, have the valves lapped and replace the seals. While you're in there, look for block or head cracks, gasket issues, etc. You might also have oil cooler issues at the same time, which would muddy the water as far as diagnosis (no pun intended). Let us know what you learn!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[StinkyPig]

@ToyotaMatt Thank you for the visual. Exactly what I wish to avoid.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

@ToyotaMatt Thank you for the visual. Exactly what I wish to avoid.

i do hope you WILL NOT have this ,

so , the intent of my banner of a REAL TOYOTA Engine above is to make the Land Cruiser owner operator take this matter serious and do it NOW !

the antifreeze coolant eats the babbot on the rod and main bearings like H55F FAST !

so it is literally a race against time


good luck mr. stinky-pig


matt

THIS IS THE WAY ...​

 

[Malleus]

If by "clean" pistons, you mean they are shiny, they were steam cleaned. A compression/leakdown test will identify a headgasket problem.

 

[fyton2v]

Mmmmm.... Pudding.

 

[StinkyPig]

Compression test fine. Leak down shows a wee bit by #3 exhaust valve. Otherwise, inconclusive.
Coolant pressure test held 15lbs for 22 hours with maybe.5 lb drop.