P0158 and P0607 suggestions? (1 Viewer)

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nakman

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Hey gang,

So it flipped over to winter here... and I have this theory that I splashed too much icy snow water onto my exhaust somehow. I don't know if it's a good theory, or just the lovely irony that I get to lay under a cold, drippy truck a few times. I was driving on Thursday night and the "check VSC" message, CEL, and fast blinking 4LO lights all came on. On Friday I plugged in my OBD scanner and saw these codes:

IMG_8098.PNG


I reset it, but then it came back on again. So that 100 miles/136 minutes is from me driving when it turned on again. According to the dashboard, my Oxygen Sensor 1 doesn't show any voltage...

IMG_8100.PNG


What I find puzzling is that the error for the sensor says high voltage, but my data shows that I have no voltage... but what do I know. And what's more puzzling is I just went out to start the truck to pull the codes again, and the lights are off- like the thing has reset itself on its own this time. But I still have no voltage on O2 Sensor 1.. I also have a big skid plate that makes it impossible to even see the things, so my other theory that a chuck of snow knocked a wire loose is also kinda out the window. Anyone fix this before?

edit: also anyone else running OBD Fusion or similar, can you tell me what you're seeing for voltage on Sensors 1 and 2?
 
sounds like your passenger side downstream o2 sensor could be dead
 
Here’s mine:
8E1728DC-7EC5-4164-8135-E022B56FF377.jpeg
 
Update here, I'm still at it. The 607 and 158 codes are still gone, they went away on their own. I've probably driven another 1000 miles.. but now I'm getting a P0057 code, which still points to O2 sensors near as I can tell. I have replaced all 4 O2 sensors and the light will come on within 5 minutes of resetting it.

Only threads I can find where there's been a P0057 have been related to a long range fuel tank, which I do not have. So now I'm watching youtubes for P0057, and so far all of them say to replace the bank2 sensor2 O2 sensor. btdt. Anyone have any other tips?

edit: this site has me wondering if I have some bad wiring somewhere, or possibly bad ecm Toyota Land Cruiser P0057: Meaning + Causes | Drivetrain Resource - https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/p0057-toyota-land-cruiser/ gonna go pull the connector apart, and see what I can clean up in the pins.
 
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So with the help of a friend we discovered the new O2 sensor I installed (passenger side, downstream, the one giving the 0057) had a bad heater circuit. Just not reading any resistance with a multi meter. So I swapped in my original O2 sensor into that spot and no more check engine lights or codes. I also dove into the OBD Fusion a little more and realized there are other PID's I should be pulling from... that default one is kinda useless, but there are others that actually show data.

It's still puzzling why I got those original codes, which appeared to have went away on their own. but I'm now running 3 new O2 sensors- both upstreams, and the DS downstream. I'm tempted to swap in another new one on the PS downstream also, mainly because I'm so good at replacing 02 sensors now.... but I'm also liking not driving around with a bunch of warning lights so today am just going to leave well enough alone.
 
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mainly because I'm so good at replacing 02 sensors now....

I'll be sure to show up at Cruise Moab with some new sensors for you to install on my rig. ;) Glad you got it sorted.
 
So with the help of a friend we discovered the new O2 sensor I installed (passenger side, downstream, the one giving the 0057) had a bad heater circuit. Just not reading any resistance with a multi meter. So I swapped in my original O2 sensor into that spot and no more check engine lights or codes. I also dove into the OBD Fusion a little more and realized there are other PID's I should be pulling from... that default one is kinda useless, but there are others that actually show data.

It's still puzzling why I got those original codes, which appeared to have went away on their own. but I'm now running 3 new O2 sensors- both upstreams, and the DS downstream. I'm tempted to swap in another new one on the PS downstream also, mainly because I'm so good at replacing 02 sensors now.... but I'm also liking not driving around with a bunch of warning lights so today am just going to leave well enough alone.

Kinda wild! That was the 2nd “new” item to fail that weekend haha. That reman Toyota starter threw me for a loop and was 10 times the headache as that O2 sensor haha.
 
Kinda wild! That was the 2nd “new” item to fail that weekend haha. That reman Toyota starter threw me for a loop and was 10 times the headache as that O2 sensor haha.
thanks again for all the help! :beer:
 
Well looks like I still can't shake this... 100 miles in and the MIL came back on yesterday. new code is P2241, which is a low current in the bank 2, sensor 1. aka passenger front.

I suspect the TRQ 2 for $125 set from Partsgeek didn't make the cut here.. so I ordered a new 89467-04060 from Toyota, $200 for 1 sensor. ouch. that's also the hardest electrical connector to reach. Ah well, gonna drive the 40 today that'll make me happy.
 
Well looks like I still can't shake this... 100 miles in and the MIL came back on yesterday. new code is P2241, which is a low current in the bank 2, sensor 1. aka passenger front.

I suspect the TRQ 2 for $125 set from Partsgeek didn't make the cut here.. so I ordered a new 89467-04060 from Toyota, $200 for 1 sensor. ouch. that's also the hardest electrical connector to reach. Ah well, gonna drive the 40 today that'll make me happy.
You could grab Desno which is OEM!
 
Still at it! I guess if you don't fix it right the first time, you get to fix it again.. last week started getting a P2238 code, which is bank 1 sensor 1. IOW, the driver side front... ordered another expensive O2 sensor from Toyota, will swap this weekend..

The worst part of the job is removing/adding the Slee skid plates.. I ran no skid plates for 2 solid months just in case the CEL came back on, bolted them up last minute just before Cruise Moab. And the light came on literally 3 days later. :banghead:
 
Still at it! I guess if you don't fix it right the first time, you get to fix it again.. last week started getting a P2238 code, which is bank 1 sensor 1. IOW, the driver side front... ordered another expensive O2 sensor from Toyota, will swap this weekend..

The worst part of the job is removing/adding the Slee skid plates.. I ran no skid plates for 2 solid months just in case the CEL came back on, bolted them up last minute just before Cruise Moab. And the light came on literally 3 days later. :banghead:
Keep your head up. I thought this sort of stuff only happened to me!
 
Any closure to this 02 sensor headache? Sounds like you have been chasing one persistent gremlin here.

Similar situation as yours, hit some deep snow drifts, and soupy mud. Undercarriage was a mess so the next day I did a thorough undercarriage washing with the garden hose and nozzle. Then when I started the truck the Trac off and 4Lo were blinking on the dash. Code reader popped up P0607 and pending code P0158. After reseting the codes they popped back 3 times over a 10 min period of idling.
It looks like the OBD Fusion app freeze frame shows "0" voltage to "Bank one, Sensor 2" as you can see in the photo.

The last photo shows what I am now seeing after successfully clearing the codes, "Bank one, Sensor 2" reads "0.78V".
After 30 miles of driving the codes haven't shown back up. I hoping that maybe I just drenched the 02 sensor with too much water and now after things dried out the issue will remain away.
I also Popped the trim by the footwells to rule out any water intrusion to the driver and passenger sides, this was my initial fear but things were nice and dry.

Anyone experience something along these lines ?

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I'm waiting for the dealer to email me that I can pick up the new O2 sensor, then I'll have all new ones on all 4. Hopefully tomorrow. In OBD Fusion, I think the best move is to create a new dashboard that shows all 4 of them... the upstream ones are called Sensor Voltage wide range (bank 1, 1) and (bank 2, 1) and they are the more critical of the 4, as from my understanding they affect engine performance. the downstream sensors are less important, and I think you can get away with a cheaper aftermarket sensor if you want to try to save some money.

the P0607 code points to the passenger side, upstream sensor, which is the hardest one to get to to swap. My suggestion is go straight to a Toyota/Denso sensor, which likely is around $200.. then hopefully you only need to swap this once.

As I wait for my new sensor, what is curious about my P2238 code is it will go off by itself- I've never had a CEL do that before. That tells me the aftermarket one I put in there is kinda ok, but on the tipping point of ok/not ok.. just enough that the ECU doesn't like it sometimes. But I like to over simplify stuff.
 
I'm waiting for the dealer to email me that I can pick up the new O2 sensor, then I'll have all new ones on all 4. Hopefully tomorrow. In OBD Fusion, I think the best move is to create a new dashboard that shows all 4 of them... the upstream ones are called Sensor Voltage wide range (bank 1, 1) and (bank 2, 1) and they are the more critical of the 4, as from my understanding they affect engine performance. the downstream sensors are less important, and I think you can get away with a cheaper aftermarket sensor if you want to try to save some money.

the P0607 code points to the passenger side, upstream sensor, which is the hardest one to get to to swap. My suggestion is go straight to a Toyota/Denso sensor, which likely is around $200.. then hopefully you only need to swap this once.

As I wait for my new sensor, what is curious about my P2238 code is it will go off by itself- I've never had a CEL do that before. That tells me the aftermarket one I put in there is kinda ok, but on the tipping point of ok/not ok.. just enough that the ECU doesn't like it sometimes. But I like to over simplify stuff.
Thanks, Appreciate it. I'll start tinkering with the ODB Fusion dashboard to get that set up.

Fortunately I have all new Denso sensors in the garage, lol but of course it's the nightmare 02 to get to. Just my luck. I am hoping this stays away so I can swap it out on my terms down the road.
I did notice a higher idle around 1250rpms when I was throwing the P0607 code. Now that the code is gone the idle is back to normal.

Crossing my fingers for you, hopefully this will solve your headaches once and for all with that new 4th sensor. Thanks for sharing your journey with us. Very helpful to have this type of trouble shooting and diagnostics as a resource.
 
@nakman i set up the OBD fusion Dashboard and saw these readings on the highway….does this look normal ?

After 60 miles of driving the codes are all gone so I hope I am in the clear now.

0A3BF7D1-C167-42B5-B7A7-BC9BE4A3B15B.jpeg
 
I suggest changing it to a graphic display, rather than a single number. You want to see the readings go up and down, almost with RPM, in a somewhat predictable pattern... will look like a heart rate monitor of sorts.

But the fact that sides 1 and 2 are almost identical is a good sign, IMO. :beer:
 
I suggest changing it to a graphic display, rather than a single number. You want to see the readings go up and down, almost with RPM, in a somewhat predictable pattern... will look like a heart rate monitor of sorts.

But the fact that sides 1 and 2 are almost identical is a good sign, IMO. :beer:
Good to know, thanks. Will log some more data
 

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