Rear vent window (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ccc54
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Welcome! First off, it's a UZJ100. 
I haven't looked but I'd think the hinge is behind the plastic by the seat belt. You'll probably have to pull up the trim at the 2nd row door base and then pop off a zillion plastic clip to pull that panel off. I'll try to remember to check my manual tonight if someone doesn't post up with something more exacting.
I haven't looked but I'd think the hinge is behind the plastic by the seat belt. You'll probably have to pull up the trim at the 2nd row door base and then pop off a zillion plastic clip to pull that panel off. I'll try to remember to check my manual tonight if someone doesn't post up with something more exacting.
both of mine are loose, Cory if you find anything out that'd be helpful. I just keep em closed instead.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Interesting, it doesn't look like there's a hinge on the front end, just rubber molding with two bolts in it. It just pivots on the flexibility of the rubber. You remove the grab handle and seat belt upper, then pull of the entire plastic trim surrounding the window and there's two bolts you access through the C-pillar.
Martin, if it's the motor on your window that's not working, there was someone selling a motor here. Their window broke and a new window comes with the motor. IIRC they wanted a pretty penny at the time.
Martin, if it's the motor on your window that's not working, there was someone selling a motor here. Their window broke and a new window comes with the motor. IIRC they wanted a pretty penny at the time.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks for the info. I found it helpful to detach the lower seat belt attachments to allow me to pull out the lower trim as well. There is a section of the lower trim that seems to interconnect with the upper trim section that prevents upper trim removal.
The solution was to tighten a nut (lock-tite added) to pull the vent window back to the pillar.
Chuck
The solution was to tighten a nut (lock-tite added) to pull the vent window back to the pillar.
Chuck
The motor works fine - it is actually the hinge/latch on the back side of the window that is broken. When you open the vent/window you can pull the window out to about 8 to 10 inches away from the frame of the truck. I'll have to have Will call Menlove for me and see how much the new latch is and if I can order just the latch. (i need to get into Wasatch and formally be introduced to Brad so I can get the WC discount without bugging everyone elese.) The molding on the latch looks like a separate peice - so hopefully i can take it off without pulling the entire rear trim.
Darren told me about it when I bought it - apparently it broke when they were in Baja - Darren said he wouldn't recomend driving hard off road with the vents/windows open - that is how it snapped.
Last edited:
So no more loose window for you?
SO after a lunch time trip to Mark Miller Toyota this afternoon - I have to buy the entire motor set up to fix the small plastic latch - price tag $287 for the motor. I'll be looking on here first. Cory - where was that post at?
Found it. Won't work - mine is driver side - different set up. Price was reasonable.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/231223-motor-100-series-rear-vent-windows.html
While we're on the subject of the rear wing windows. Mine, when open to max, have always rattled...even on the street. Everyone's the same? And now the DS doesn't close as tight as I think it should so its an entry point for all that Nevada dust 
.
I can see why Toyota eliminated the operating wing windows on the 200. Based on my '99 they couldn't figure out how to make them function properly.
. I can see why Toyota eliminated the operating wing windows on the 200. Based on my '99 they couldn't figure out how to make them function properly
.
My wing windows didnt rattle/shake even when open at least till 2005, then I added a JL subwoofer...I think you can relate spress.
While we're on the subject of the rear wing windows. Mine, when open to max, have always rattled...even on the street. Everyone's the same? And now the DS doesn't close as tight as I think it should so its an entry point for all that Nevada dust
I can see why Toyota eliminated the operating wing windows on the 200. Based on my '99 they couldn't figure out how to make them function properly
Mine work fine but have always rattled!
Where is the button or switch on the 100's to try and close/ tighten the rear popout window? FTR, mine is the passenger side window.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
Some knuckle head busted out my rear vent window on my 100 series. I assume they were trying to steal whatever was in the the vehicle. They got nothing and I ended up having to buy a window from an Oregon junkyard. Thank you Oregon junk yard...
The old window rattled so I wanted to provide some pictures on how I was able tighten things up on my replacement.
Hinge Bolt location: you might want to locktite the studs on the window.
the donor hinge was blown out so I used the original to the truck carefully removing it by prying it open with a crescent wrench and dimensional lumber. This method worked well providing just enough relief to remove it without over bending it.
side by side
Here is where I think a lot of the rattles are occurring.
By turning and bending the newly replaced clip (motor side), I was able to put this bracket under slight compression. To get the slack out, very carefully bend the top and bottom of the window clip as pictured.
This method stopped the rattle I had. I assume the weight of open windows slowly opens these brackets up over time. Everything is good now, I hope this helps anyone with “rattletrap” 100 series vent windows.
Best,
Nate
The old window rattled so I wanted to provide some pictures on how I was able tighten things up on my replacement.
Hinge Bolt location: you might want to locktite the studs on the window.
the donor hinge was blown out so I used the original to the truck carefully removing it by prying it open with a crescent wrench and dimensional lumber. This method worked well providing just enough relief to remove it without over bending it.
side by side
Here is where I think a lot of the rattles are occurring.
By turning and bending the newly replaced clip (motor side), I was able to put this bracket under slight compression. To get the slack out, very carefully bend the top and bottom of the window clip as pictured.
This method stopped the rattle I had. I assume the weight of open windows slowly opens these brackets up over time. Everything is good now, I hope this helps anyone with “rattletrap” 100 series vent windows.
Best,
Nate
Last edited:
Has anyone been able to convert their vent window to allow for loading gear through there? ie, detach the buckle and covert the hinge to something that allows full articulation of the window
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
There are gull wing replacements available, but they're expensive. I haven't seen anyone convert the existing glass to open all the way.
I was pretty close to going for these but it just didn't add any functionality and bailed on the idea. I put the orange box fab panels on the inside.
The gull window idea is still pretty tempting but the cost and time to install just seems better spent elsewhere.
Well I'll be tinkering there and let you know if I get something right with the existing hardware. I'm not spending that amount for such an insignificant convinience
