89 FJ62 Starter Problem (1 Viewer)

[Captain Ron]

Won't engage but battery in not dead. Starter relay clicking but will not engage. This is intermittent problem. It will start for two or three months then suddenly will not engage. Try it 20 times in a row but will not engage. Leave if ten minutes or an hour then it just engages immediately and starts up. Almost impossible to fix something this intermittent. Any guesses ?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Won't engage but battery in not dead. Starter relay clicking but will not engage. This is intermittent problem. It will start for two or three months then suddenly will not engage. Try it 20 times in a row but will not engage. Leave if ten minutes or an hour then it just engages immediately and starts up. Almost impossible to fix something this intermittent. Any guesses ?

when your original or aftermarket FJ62 Starter starts to click , that's its way of saying im starting to DIE fast .....



i offer Genuine NipponDenso JAPAN Spec. Replacements ,

complete plug and play kits including ALL OEM Mounting Hardware bolts studs and spring washers and hex nuts

also , to set you up for success , a brand spanking new Heavy Duty 10ga SOLONOID input wire with a YAZAKI SPECIAL Positive Grip Termional ,

this is light years ahead of your current one that activates your solenoid


also , NO CORE topic involved .........

OEM TOYOTA Gear Reduction Starter Motor Kit Include New OEM Service Spec. Connector Pig Tail Adapter Also FITS 1963-1992 FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, FJ60 FJ62 FJ80 F and 2F , 3FE engines ( NO CORE ! ) - VintageTEqParts.com

OEM TOYOTA Gear Reduction Starter Motor Kit - NO CORE - Comes with the Electrical Connector Pigtail Wire Kit...

vintageteqparts.com

OEM TOYOTA Gear Reduction Starter Motor Kit Include New OEM Service Spec. Connector Pig Tail Adapter Also FITS 1963-1992 FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, FJ60 FJ62 FJ80 F and 2F , 3FE engines ( NO CORE ! ) - VintageTEqParts.com

OEM TOYOTA Gear Reduction Starter Motor Kit - NO CORE - Comes with the Electrical Connector Pigtail Wire Kit...

vintageteqparts.com

 

[MTB Land Cruise]

Won't engage but battery in not dead. Starter relay clicking but will not engage. This is intermittent problem. It will start for two or three months then suddenly will not engage. Try it 20 times in a row but will not engage. Leave if ten minutes or an hour then it just engages immediately and starts up. Almost impossible to fix something this intermittent. Any guesses ?

I had the same symptoms on my 89…. I Replaced the starter, problem fixed… Toyotamatt is correct…..

 

[RockDoc]

Try cleaning up/adjusting/replacing the plunger contacts. Id suggest you check and clean your battery clamps, grounds and stater lead lug as well.

Here are the Toyota part #s for a starter rebuild.

I just got done rebuilding the starter on my '87 and I thought I would share the part numbers for the contacts and the plunger. I got the parts from Cdan, and he had to cross reference the numbers for a 3FE starter in an early 80 series. The Toyota computer does not show the individual parts...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[franklin40]

i had a problem like this but can’t remember if it would click or not. it ended up being that the old wiring in the truck wouldn’t allow enough current to activate the solenoid. it was however enough power to open a relay so i added one of these. fixed my problem.

when it starts does it fire quickly or does it seem to struggle. i just went through a starter replacement as this time it was slow
and sluggish and sounded like it was struggling. first scenario it would fire right away but just sometimes it was totally dead. kind of either on or off but nothing in between if that makes sense

 

[OSS]

If the starter is 20 years old or more- replace it.
Do you real want to play starter roulette away from home?

 

[franklin40]

there is a way you can jump the solenoid right from the battery. i’d suggest doing this before buying a new starter simply because you may spend $300 on a starter and still have the same problem. this relay is $20. while i don’t disagree with replacing parts that are 20 years old i would rather fix the problem than guess and be wrong with expensive parts. jumping the solenoid at a time that it won’t run will tell you a lot. my 2cents.

 

[Godwin]

Replacing the plunger and contacts is easy and cheaper than purchasing a new or rebuilt starter. This link was posted above with part numbers Here are the Toyota part #s for a starter rebuild. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/here-are-the-toyota-part-s-for-a-starter-rebuild.105626/ Cost for parts now will be closer to $75. Rebuild the starter, clean battery and wire connections and that is often all that is needed to restore good starter function.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Agreed pretty simple repair. Unhook battery first!

 

[Captain Ron]

I did rebuild the starter. Very easy.

Still did not do the trick. Still sounded like dead battery clicking at the starter. Battery was 4 1/2 years old so decided to replace it.

Still same problem.

Removed the starter and connected it to the battery and it tested it four or five times, let it run for 5 to 10 seconds, perfect. So reinstalled it.

Removed the wire from ignition switch on the starter. Connected a jump wire from starter to the battery with an intermediate switch.

Turn the keyed ignition switch to run, flip my jumper switch and bang starts the car immediately. Also checked the solenoid noise made with the key off and it is significantly lowder than when you run the power through ignition switch.

So there is some kind of short in the keyed wire that is not letting enough amperage get to the starter solenoid. A tracing job.

However I have a new problem that did not exist before. The engine is making an awful noise. A load clanking noise that kind of sounds like a piece of metal hitting something that is rotating. I checked the flywheel from the bottom viewing port and the wheel looks great for being 500K miles on it.

If I could attach an mpg4 file you could hear it. To bad.

I'll be out this week checking with a couple of mechanics to see what their guess it.

 

[Captain Ron]

If anybody wants to hear it send me a text and I'll send it. It's only 834KB so should send easily.
949-702-0181

 

[SteveH]

However I have a new problem that did not exist before. The engine is making an awful noise. A load clanking noise that kind of sounds like a piece of metal hitting something that is rotating. I checked the flywheel from the bottom viewing port and the wheel looks great for being 500K miles on it.

Perhaps your starter is still engaged while the engine is running (after it starts)? Don't let this go on for long!

 

[Spike Strip]

Sometimes it's the IGNITION SWITCH - not the keyed part, the electrical switch behind the tumbler that directs juice to the starter. That switch has metal contacts that wear out/corrode after 100K on/off cycles.

NOS FJ62 OEM JAPAN Ignition Switch Key Lock Column Type Fits 8/87-1990 FJ62 88450-60151 84450-60150 - VintageTEqParts.com

NOS / New OLD Stock OEM TOYOTA Parts , made in JAPAN Ignition Switch Key Lock Column Type Fits 8/87-1990...

vintageteqparts.com

 

[Captain Ron]

I ordered this part (the 'ignition switch key lock') on April 4th and have not received nor been able to get a response from 'Vinatgeteqparts.com' to three separate emails I have sent regarding where and when I would get the part. They did charge my credit card the very next day though.

Right now I would say don't order anything from this company.

I'll be filling a complaint with my credit card company tomorrow along with one the FTC.

 

[Seth S]

The low current small wires that trigger the starter solenoid when you turn the key often reach a point where they cannot deliver quite enough current to properly fire the starter solenoid. This problem often manifests on hot engine starts and results in the infamous click...even though your battery is plenty strong. The easy fix for this is to use the stock wires to fire fender mounted relay which in turn uses a heavier fused wire from the battery to the back of the starter. This is quick fix but it can stay in place for the rest of the life of the vehicle without any negative repercussions other than no longer being 100% stock. A fresh start or rebuilding the solenoid itself may also solve this. The best fix is a combination of new starter or rebuild the solenoid and replace the original trigger wires with new ones.

 

[matmattmatthew]

This is reminding me of the same issues I had with my 89 a few years ago. I was chasing a starting/electrical gremlin and ended up replacing the battery (it was old anyway), installed a new Alternator, then installed a new (non-oem) starter. The truck would start but only after I beat on the starter with a wrench. I figured the new starter didn't "mesh" well with the OEM flywheel. I was still having intermittent starting issues even when I would beat on the starter so I moved to wiring. I bypassed the ignition and used one of those "trigger" starters and it would start every time. To try and isolate the problem further, I re-installed the OE starter with the trigger starter and it started every time. So it seemed I replaced the starter (and possibly the battery and alternator) for nothing.

After doing all that, I came to the conclusion that it had something to do with either wiring or the actual ignition switch. I found a thread on a 240z website where a guy had a similar issue and had trouble finding an ignition switch that fit his car. He did a little write up on how to bypass the switch with a relay and a push button starter. I didn't want to hack up the dash so I found a button that fit in the dash hole that was made for Non-US models that have a handle throttle. I've been driving it like this for almost 3 years.

I have plans to properly fix it at some point. Does anyone know if the ignition switch for 62's works for both automatic and manual vehicles? I have an H55.

 

[Seth S]

This is reminding me of the same issues I had with my 89 a few years ago. I was chasing a starting/electrical gremlin and ended up replacing the battery (it was old anyway), installed a new Alternator, then installed a new (non-oem) starter. The truck would start but only after I beat on the starter with a wrench. I figured the new starter didn't "mesh" well with the OEM flywheel. I was still having intermittent starting issues even when I would beat on the starter so I moved to wiring. I bypassed the ignition and used one of those "trigger" starters and it would start every time. To try and isolate the problem further, I re-installed the OE starter with the trigger starter and it started every time. So it seemed I replaced the starter (and possibly the battery and alternator) for nothing.

After doing all that, I came to the conclusion that it had something to do with either wiring or the actual ignition switch. I found a thread on a 240z website where a guy had a similar issue and had trouble finding an ignition switch that fit his car. He did a little write up on how to bypass the switch with a relay and a push button starter. I didn't want to hack up the dash so I found a button that fit in the dash hole that was made for Non-US models that have a handle throttle. I've been driving it like this for almost 3 years.

I have plans to properly fix it at some point. Does anyone know if the ignition switch for 62's works for both automatic and manual vehicles? I have an H55.

I would wager that mechanically it’s the same. The automatic likely routes the starter trigger wire through a neutral safety switch that only closes when in park or neutral. Given how many 62’s have been converted to manual trans I’m sure it’s fairly simple to fix or lock out the neutral safety feature.

 

[franklin40]

i have an h55 swapped into my fj62 and i didn’t have to do anything with the ignition switch. as i described earlier thought the as the wiring ages it’s resistance can increase causing not enough power to engage the solenoid. using a relay to direct power straight from the battery will power the solenoid fully to get the starter to engage. mine hasn’t missed a beat since i added one.

 

[Sirlosealot]

I ordered this part (the 'ignition switch key lock') on April 4th and have not received nor been able to get a response from 'Vinatgeteqparts.com' to three separate emails I have sent regarding where and when I would get the part. They did charge my credit card the very next day though.

Right now I would say don't order anything from this company.

I'll be filling a complaint with my credit card company tomorrow along with one the FTC.

For what this is worth. I placed an order with "Vintageteqparts.com" back on 3/29/23 and just Monday received an email saying it has been shipped. I went through the same no response to my two email as you. I have heard they are a very small operation and they get behind easily. Not a great business model, I will agree. But most say he does come through in the end. Do with this info as you will and "Good Luck" with your issue.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

For what this is worth. I placed an order with "Vintageteqparts.com" back on 3/29/23 and just Monday received an email saying it has been shipped. I went through the same no response to my two email as you. I have heard they are a very small operation and they get behind easily. Not a great business model, I will agree. But most say he does come through in the end. Do with this info as you will and "Good Luck" with your issue.

hello george ,

i emailed you your antenna was back ordered a few days after you placed your order on the 29th , i did not receive a reply back .

if this occurs , it's best to ship a clients order complete ....



i apologize for your delay , please always feel free to simply PM me here on MUD , this can be a faster method at times ..


- we are a TAD behind still on shipping out ALL orders at the moment due to spring breakers and the EASTER holiday , both are intense parts buying periods ....
we are working as hard and fast as possible , in order , of the order date placed of course ....


. thanks for your Patience and Support


Erin and Matt

VintageTeqParts


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