FZJ80 rear axle upgrade (2 Viewers)

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Random question for those 80 axle conversion guys......Is there any negatives to plugging and welding the abs sensor holes? I saw the block off plates and the hand made ones, but is there a reason to not make it permanent?
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in case you ever decide to want a wheel speed sensor for something. (speedo, traction control, ABS, etc)

especially when you can just put the sensor in it or buy one of Wit's End fancy plugs

 
@cruisermatt, or anyone that knows or has an off vehicle OME rear springs.........I just welded on the Moroso 85090 SUA perches and am now wondering if the hole is the correct size? Have not removed OE axle yet as I am trying to get the 80 axle fully ready to go on first.
 
@cruisermatt, or anyone that knows or has an off vehicle OME rear springs.........I just welded on the Moroso 85090 SUA perches and am now wondering if the hole is the correct size? Have not removed OE axle yet as I am trying to get the 80 axle fully ready to go on first.
Yeah I think so
 
ANYONE have any clue what the rear axle backing plate nut torque might be? They are M12 X 1.25 so similar to lug stud with different pitch and shorter nut than a lug nut. Can't find this anywhere. Thanks

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Tight
 
Good-n-tight, or super tight like Ubolt lug nut tight? I don't remember them being difficult to remove.
 
Anyone have any experience with the passenger shock hitting/not working with the oem locker actuator? I was thinking maybe it is the version of the ubolt flip kit I have? Have not checked stock bottom plate yet.
Also the 80 series parking brake cable fits great across the back, BUT seems a mile long going to the brake handle. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks
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Anyone have any experience with the passenger shock hitting/not working with the oem locker actuator? I was thinking maybe it is the version of the ubolt flip kit I have? Have not checked stock bottom plate yet.
Also the 80 series parking brake cable fits great across the back, BUT seems a mile long going to the brake handle. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks
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I mounted Bilsteins with the shock tube up and rod down to avoid interference. I don't know if this is an acceptable way to mount the shock, couldn't find any info after a 10 min Google search, but I'm not noticing any issues.
 
@TRAIL TAILOR Thank you for confirming. Cut the bottom pin off or top? Both until it works right? I measured the OE bottom plate pin is within 1/4" center line of ubolt holes....these are offset alot like front shocks.
 
@TRAIL TAILOR Thank you for confirming. Cut the bottom pin off or top? Both until it works right? I measured the OE bottom plate pin is within 1/4" center line of ubolt holes....these are offset alot like front shocks.

I would move the lower mount personally if you can get the proper articulation without hitting. Also be the easiest to work with.


Monotube shocks can be mounted almost any direction.

Twin tube shocks are designed for the body to be down for proper lubrication and gas distribution in the system. Also in the body up position it will increase the chance of damage to the piston from road detritus and the nicks/pitting will wear the inner seal faster. I would not remove the plastic rod protector.



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Some more reading on shock orientation.






OME Twin Tube design

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I wonder if anyone has any pictures of how to make this work with the shock on the passenger side? I am certain after flexing suspension it most likely will not work in the current setup at all without moving top of shock or raising bottom up closer to axle more. Pressed ahead with brakes and parking brake adjustments so I could get these mounted up and proceed with the front end. I am loving new stance.
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@robustbambi had the E-lockers I believe

You could just move the upper mount over towards the passenger side.
 
@cruisermatt, I know its probably ideal to have both rears at the same angle (symmetrical) I can only go so far on the drivers side before I hit the exhaust. Upper mount looks difficult from the garage floor, but might be the only way. Thanks
 

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