YotaMD Titanium Integrated Remote Key Fob Shell (3 Viewers)

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Okay, great. I can try to tighten the center screw to see if that helps. I just didn't want to over-tighten it.

Not sure if I have the new shim. I bought the fob end of last year.
You'll likely find that the new shim kit would be valuable.
 
I just released a shim that addresses that, but the center screw alone usually does enough.

Do you have the shim? I'm about to launch a "Great Un-Wiggling" campaign to retrofit those shims.
would definitely be interested in a shim for my fob purchased last year and one purchased years ago. There's a few degrees play in either direction.
 
The Great Un-Wiggling has begun!

Buy at the link below. As always, shipping is free.


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The Great Un-Wiggling has begun!

Buy at the link below. As always, shipping is free.


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So if I have the T-shaped key, all I need is that little rectangular black piece in the picture to fix the unwanted rotation?

Also, from this point forward will all new key fobs include these new shims?
 
FYI.....YotaMD Fob shell customers, I am currently using the shim in one of my key fobs and it does in fact significantly help to stabilize a loose key blade. Good for Suprax7YotaMD for being proactive in improving his product.
 
I bought 1x kit since I have 2 different shaped keys (I and T shaped), and this worked great. @suprarx7nut for the T one, I put an additional thin bit of plastic to shim it more, as mine was still "ever so slightly" loose. I used a tiny slice off a disposable daily contact plastic case and worked miracles.

This is such a great retrofit and thank you for making something to address this.
 
anti-wiggle kit installed on my V2 shells and the Wiha tool is fantastic! - Thanks Andy!
 
I bought 1x kit since I have 2 different shaped keys (I and T shaped), and this worked great. @suprarx7nut for the T one, I put an additional thin bit of plastic to shim it more, as mine was still "ever so slightly" loose. I used a tiny slice off a disposable daily contact plastic case and worked miracles.

This is such a great retrofit and thank you for making something to address this.
That's great to know, thank you. I just had another customer say their shim for the T key was too thick. I figured there would be some variance. I might try to arrange the geometry of that T shim so that it can be flipped 90 degrees to give you a thicker or thinner shim. That will probably just confuse people though so I'll let it ride with the current dimensions and see how the overall feedback goes. I suspect I can land on a solution that is not confusing and yields a 90-95%+ success rate.
 
That's great to know, thank you. I just had another customer say their shim for the T key was too thick. I figured there would be some variance. I might try to arrange the geometry of that T shim so that it can be flipped 90 degrees to give you a thicker or thinner shim. That will probably just confuse people though so I'll let it ride with the current dimensions and see how the overall feedback goes. I suspect I can land on a solution that is not confusing and yields a 90-95%+ success rate.
FWIW I think it's a great solution as is, period. My key that has my added shim, has an aftermarket non-OE transponder in it, and that might be a hair smaller etc in the casing.

By the way for anyone reading - if you have AAA towing you can use one of your "service calls" for a replacement key. That in and of itself makes AAA towing membership worth it, especially if you get a key or two. (sorry to go OT).
 
Just an update here on the shim additions. They seem to have helped a ton. I have not gotten much specific feedback on the U or I style keys (because they're relatively rare), but I've verified with a bunch of people on the T style that the shims eliminate almost all side to side rotation. You can fine tune any of the shims with additional tiny pieces of cut up business card.

I'm very pleased with the overall net effect of that add-on to these kits!

Please note, the engagement of the center screw into the key remains an important part of the puzzle. If your key blade has damaged or plastic filled threads, you will struggle to get much force on the screw and you'll have some wiggle. Burn away the dirty threads with a lighter and ensure the screws thread cleanly through the key blade outside of the assembly before you begin assembly.

-Andy
 
Just replaced a busted plastic key that came with my 100.

My keyblades threads were dirty and felt a little messed up. Slowly going back and forth tighten loosen tighten more loosen etc. It threaded all the way in and the blade feels nice and firm!

Thank you!

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@suprarx7nut Have you looked into making the shells out of aluminum?
Yup! Even had an aluminum one 3d printed. Unfortunately even just the back half shell completely blocks the remote and immobilizer.

It's a Faraday cage, essentially. No good for a radio case.
 
Anyone ran into an issue where the key is molded to the shell? My 05 LX key is molded in, not sure how to get it out.
 
Remove the transponder module then break off the remaining plastic bits till you're just left with the metal key. Easy enough with care.
 
Anyone ran into an issue where the key is molded to the shell? My 05 LX key is molded in, not sure how to get it out.
They're all like that. The key blade is always molded into the plastic case and must be removed. Since most shells are already cracked the key blade tends to come out easy, but you might need pliers or diagonal cutters to get the key free if your shell hasn't cracked yet.

I should put that into in my product page or something because this question comes up a few times per year.

You can also buy a key blade by itself from my site if you'd rather leave your existing key blade intact. You'd need to get it cut by a locksmith.
 

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