Man I’ve been wanting to try that actually. It is just kinda expensive haha. I was thinking about using it as a top cost over the platinum on my 60 frame. I tigged a hitch receiver for a friend and he used it to paint it and it looks amazing
Torfab 80 Series Front Axle Conversion Kit – At Home Install (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bullzi
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #43
I haven’t had a ton of time to work on the suspension over the last few weeks, but I did get to work on it for a few hours this weekend.
I was able to spray some Cosmoline wax on the frame, put the sliders back on and I reinstalled the steering box.
I was pretty happy that my slider brackets fit without any mods required! These are White Knuckle sliders…I thought the front slider mounting point had the potential to hit the radius arm bracket but it just clears.
I also removed the radiator to pressure test it for leaks. I had a suspicion it had a small leak and it did.
In trying to fix it, I basically ruined it
So I need to order a new radiator. It’s between the CSF copper/brass unit and the Mishimoto unit. I previously had a champion, but they don’t sell one with the internal trans cooler anymore and that is a feature that I like.
Leaning towards the Mishimoto with the lifetime warranty.
Anyways, hoping to have more time this week to get some stuff finished up.
One item I still need to tackle is drilling the holes in the inner fenders above the shock mounts to make room for the shock posts. I think the bracket for my compressor may need to be modified since it sits right where the hole needs to be.
I went to the junkyard and found an 80 that still had some shocks. It was fully picked through otherwise. I’ll be able to use these shocks to measure for the holes and mock everything up while I wait for the Radflo units.
I was able to spray some Cosmoline wax on the frame, put the sliders back on and I reinstalled the steering box.
I was pretty happy that my slider brackets fit without any mods required! These are White Knuckle sliders…I thought the front slider mounting point had the potential to hit the radius arm bracket but it just clears.
I also removed the radiator to pressure test it for leaks. I had a suspicion it had a small leak and it did.
In trying to fix it, I basically ruined it
So I need to order a new radiator. It’s between the CSF copper/brass unit and the Mishimoto unit. I previously had a champion, but they don’t sell one with the internal trans cooler anymore and that is a feature that I like.
Leaning towards the Mishimoto with the lifetime warranty.
Anyways, hoping to have more time this week to get some stuff finished up.
One item I still need to tackle is drilling the holes in the inner fenders above the shock mounts to make room for the shock posts. I think the bracket for my compressor may need to be modified since it sits right where the hole needs to be.
I went to the junkyard and found an 80 that still had some shocks. It was fully picked through otherwise. I’ll be able to use these shocks to measure for the holes and mock everything up while I wait for the Radflo units.
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- Thread starter
- #44
Drilled holes in the inner fenders to make room for the shock posts this evening.
I used a 1.5” hole saw. It was easy except for the part where the hole enveloped two of the factory nuts for mounting brackets. Unfortunately I am (was) using both those mounting points for accessory brackets.
The drivers side bracket will be easy to modify, but the passenger side will take a little more time.
I think I might try to find some 1.5” rubber grommets to trim out the holes.
Driver side:
Passenger side:
I used a 1.5” hole saw. It was easy except for the part where the hole enveloped two of the factory nuts for mounting brackets. Unfortunately I am (was) using both those mounting points for accessory brackets.
The drivers side bracket will be easy to modify, but the passenger side will take a little more time.
I think I might try to find some 1.5” rubber grommets to trim out the holes.
Driver side:
Passenger side:
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- Thread starter
- #46
Making progress!
Shocks are installed and the radius arms & panhard are torqued. I probably still need to center the axle better but it’s really hard in such a small space.
Just need to install that radiator (should come tomorrow) and button a few other things up.
Just enough clearance between the shock bolts and accessory brackets I have. I ordered a few grommets to trim out the holes.
Passenger side:
Driver side:
Stance with the tires on!
Fun to see those coils and shocks under there!!
Shocks are installed and the radius arms & panhard are torqued. I probably still need to center the axle better but it’s really hard in such a small space.
Just need to install that radiator (should come tomorrow) and button a few other things up.
Just enough clearance between the shock bolts and accessory brackets I have. I ordered a few grommets to trim out the holes.
Passenger side:
Driver side:
Stance with the tires on!
Fun to see those coils and shocks under there!!
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That's Purdy
How much are your wheels poking out?
- Thread starter
- #49
A fair bit, but no more than they were with the 60 axle and tundra brake setup with IFS mini-truck hubs.
I still need to center the axle perfectly with the adjustable panhard. I’ll take some pictures of the poke out when I’m done.
Right now my rims have 4.5” backspacing and my tires are 285/75/17.
Cool. I have a dobinson and it works great.
- Thread starter
- #51
First test drive complete. The suspension feels awesome, although I have only driven it on-road. It soaks up bumps really well and feels much more like a modern truck! I hit a few large potholes and could barely feel them!
Brakes are very similar to the tundra brakes. I can’t really tell a discernible difference - which is good because the tundra brakes are great!
The ride height is about 1/8” higher than with the OME xtra-heavy leafs. I’m wondering if I might need heavier springs. This is with the stock springs out of an LX450. It’s hard to know if they are clapped out or not, so time will tell.
I do have a little bit of twitchyness in the steering wheel. It’s not really wondering but you have to constantly make slight corrections. I almost wonder if the caster is a little high and it’s following road imperfections.
Or it could need more toe-in. I think I’ll try to get it to an alignment shop in the next week to see what the numbers are and go from there.
It is very driveable…the twitchyness is there, but not too bad.
Poser shots after first drive:
I mounted the steering stabilizer using the FZJ80 mount. There is a way to mount it using one existing hole and drilling a new one, but I just centered the wheels, found the midpoint of the stabilizer, mounted the tie rod end and then drilled two new holes where it seemed to want to sit.
I also got the grommets to finish off the holes for the shocks.
Excited to get my alignment numbers and put some more miles on it … preferably off road!
To Do:
Brakes are very similar to the tundra brakes. I can’t really tell a discernible difference - which is good because the tundra brakes are great!
The ride height is about 1/8” higher than with the OME xtra-heavy leafs. I’m wondering if I might need heavier springs. This is with the stock springs out of an LX450. It’s hard to know if they are clapped out or not, so time will tell.
I do have a little bit of twitchyness in the steering wheel. It’s not really wondering but you have to constantly make slight corrections. I almost wonder if the caster is a little high and it’s following road imperfections.
Or it could need more toe-in. I think I’ll try to get it to an alignment shop in the next week to see what the numbers are and go from there.
It is very driveable…the twitchyness is there, but not too bad.
Poser shots after first drive:
I mounted the steering stabilizer using the FZJ80 mount. There is a way to mount it using one existing hole and drilling a new one, but I just centered the wheels, found the midpoint of the stabilizer, mounted the tie rod end and then drilled two new holes where it seemed to want to sit.
I also got the grommets to finish off the holes for the shocks.
Excited to get my alignment numbers and put some more miles on it … preferably off road!
To Do:
- Get my front drive line back (needed to be lengthened a few inches).
- Install new brake line from axle to frame ( had to get a longer one)
- Finish sway bar mounts and install (need driveline first)
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Ever considered Aussie fenders flares to keep the wheels under some body? I have mixed feelings on it
- Thread starter
- #54
The thought has crossed my mind, but I don’t really love the look. Plus the tires don’t stick out as far as the pic makes it look. Someday I may get skinnier tires.
- Thread starter
- #55
Thanks!
No real reason to take them off. Plus they make good recovery points.
Looks great 
Nice work! Looking forward to seeing it in person!
- Thread starter
- #58
I have the truck at Les Schwab right now getting the tires re-balanced and the alignment checked. They will only be able to adjust toe, but I will be able to get the numbers for the caster to see where I’m at.
Here’s a shot of the tire stick out. It’s the same as it was with the tundra brake setup.
A flexy shot. Much more than it could have flexed with the leafs. This is not full flex. It can go about two more inches down but that was the max I could get out of the ‘flex wall’.
I’ll update with the alignment numbers later this evening.
Here’s a shot of the tire stick out. It’s the same as it was with the tundra brake setup.
A flexy shot. Much more than it could have flexed with the leafs. This is not full flex. It can go about two more inches down but that was the max I could get out of the ‘flex wall’.
I’ll update with the alignment numbers later this evening.
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- Thread starter
- #59
Alright, the numbers are in. I’m a little frustrated because they used the specs for the FJ60 instead of the FZJ80 after I told them at least 5 times to use the specs for the 80 series. Not a huge deal except for the fact that they took my toe which I set per my tape measure and was pretty much dead nuts and lowered it a bunch to get it within spec for the 60 series. And for that I had the pleasure of paying them $120. 
It drives a little flighty now, so I’m going to put the toe back to where I had it. I might even try adding a little more, just to test some things.
Caster is right on the money at around 3 degrees, so @torfab was correct in giving me the metal-tech castor correction plates that were for a 4” lift (not that I ever doubted them!).
Camber on the right side is a little low but not terrible. Maybe a slight bend in the housing somewhere?
Here are the numbers, the numbers that I added in blue are the actual 80 series specs:
It drives a little flighty now, so I’m going to put the toe back to where I had it. I might even try adding a little more, just to test some things.
Caster is right on the money at around 3 degrees, so @torfab was correct in giving me the metal-tech castor correction plates that were for a 4” lift (not that I ever doubted them!).
Camber on the right side is a little low but not terrible. Maybe a slight bend in the housing somewhere?
Here are the numbers, the numbers that I added in blue are the actual 80 series specs:
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- Thread starter
- #60
First trip of the season in the books with @NookShneer.
He and his family came out to the Olympic Peninsula for a weekend of camping.
Was a great time and the Bean performed really well! I’m still fighting that slight steering twitch, but other than that it drove awesome. We went on a few really bumpy roads at a good pace and the front suspension easily soaked them up. Can’t wait for the next one!
My goal is to get the sway bar in once I have the driveline back next week.
He and his family came out to the Olympic Peninsula for a weekend of camping.
Was a great time and the Bean performed really well! I’m still fighting that slight steering twitch, but other than that it drove awesome. We went on a few really bumpy roads at a good pace and the front suspension easily soaked them up. Can’t wait for the next one!
My goal is to get the sway bar in once I have the driveline back next week.
