New Engine? 2000 LC - HELP! (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 11, 2019
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1
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Location
Dallas
Hello all. I am a longtime listener, first time caller. I am the proud owner of a black/tan 2000 LC. Have owned since 2002 that started with 25000mi. It now has over 295000mi. It's my daily driver. It's been well maintained by me (oil changes) and all other items by Sewell Lexus in Dallas. It is cosmetically in wonderful condition with barely a flaw except for some driver side interior wear like the seat butt and top of door panel where my arm rests and some carpet stains and maybe some scratches and a few tiny dings. Not a lick of rust anywhere. I put 18" OEM wheels from a 2004 LC with 1" wheel spacers, took off the running boards and fender flares (still have), re-wrapped the steering wheel, and added an OEM trunk spoiler. Otherwise it is completely stock. I had purchased a new main fuse box to replace my flawed one but hadn't gotten around to it. I'm pretty sure the crankshaft position sensor is going bad which isn't a big deal. I plan to eventually get to the failing door lock actuator motors (love that thread). The shift lever needs new leather so that would be in the future too.

I've been driving it with a ticking for several months and eventually the engine slightly shuddering and check engine light (inspection up last month). It didn't feel good to drive it like that. SO- I have been told, by 3 mechanics including Sewell, Toyota of Dallas, and an independent, that something in cylinder #7 has failed (my words) and I need to replace the engine. I've been told it just isn't worth it to pull everything apart and hope/pray to find something that can be fixed on an engine with almost 300K miles. Michael Goode of Goode's Offroad is booked until August and told me Toyota of Dallas should handle it. I've been moving towards (trying to justify) that direction. Toyota of Dallas quoted a remanufactured "0 mile" engine from "Engine Forge" all-in will have me back on the road for ~$12K with seals, belts, hoses, fluids, etc., not including any additional major parts that might need to be replaced during surgery- hopefully none. I really wanted to take LC to the absolute finish, or at least 3-4 more years. Am I stupid for wanting to do this? A "used" engine with 60K-95K miles will save me maybe $2K, but who knows how long it would be until repairs would be needed for that? I don't want to buy a "new" car which will cost me at least that much just to get into plus a car new payment and higher insurance etc. I can't think of any car that I would want for at least the next few years except for a new LC and who knows if that will ever happen anyway, besides the LX.

Am I stupid??
IF I decided to sell in 3-4 years, would an extremely "low miles" 2000 LC have a decent demand??

Any thoughts, advice, encouragement from you guys would be greatly appreciated. I'm open to an ass-whooping too.

Thank you IH8MUD-ERS!
 
Do you know if those guys did an actual compression test? I wonder what is actually the issue.

I was in your shoes about 4 years ago. I had low compression in two cylinders on either side of the block. Head gasket. The direction from here was to find a used engine with decent history and have it swapped out. I got a used engine with 130k for $1075, swapped it myself but if you can source a used engine from here or an enthusiast you can save thousands.

I have 50k miles on my used engine so I got lucky.

I wouldn't go rebuild. My LC is actually on its 3rd engine because the second was a poor jasper rebuild.

Here's my thread if you want to see more.


Are you able to do work on your own?
 
Call Mayo Automotive in Lewisville and talk to him. I bet he can get you going again for a lot less $$$
 
I will touch on the resale of a vehicle with a replaced engine. Typically if the vehicle is sold shortly after a engine is swapped people will be cautious of purchase since there is potential that something is not right and they are going to purchase a can of worms. Holding the car and driving it for 3-4 years before selling will help. It all will come down to what engine is put in a vehicle, what history that engine has, who did the work, what was documented, etc. It will probably not sell for higher than a similar vehicle with the original engine even though the one with the original engine would have higher mileage.

All that said, I would be cautious of a remanufactured engine. Most of the ones I researched for the 2UZ are using your engine as a core and rebuilding it. The best bet (if an engine is needed) is to find a good one out of a low mileage vehicle that was involved in a rear end collision with no damage to the engine bay.

Best of luck. Curious to hear what the actual failure point is. Did they mention anything about a spark plug blowing out of the head? The ticking makes me think something in that direction.
 
Do you know if those guys did an actual compression test? I wonder what is actually the issue.

I was in your shoes about 4 years ago. I had low compression in two cylinders on either side of the block. Head gasket. The direction from here was to find a used engine with decent history and have it swapped out. I got a used engine with 130k for $1075, swapped it myself but if you can source a used engine from here or an enthusiast you can save thousands.

I have 50k miles on my used engine so I got lucky.

I wouldn't go rebuild. My LC is actually on its 3rd engine because the second was a poor jasper rebuild.

Here's my thread if you want to see more.


Are you able to do work on your own?
Thanks FrankieJoe! I believe a compression test was done at Toyota, but I need to ask. I don't feel like I could do this "myself" even though I have done a few things like the starter and CV boots and a few other things. Time would be my hindrance. I have 2 little ones that I am happy to spend most of my free time with lately. I think I'd like to leave this to the pros since it is my DD. I wouldn't go for a rebuilt engine. I'm only considering the remanufactured long block swap or a used full swap. In looking for a used engine from a reseller, I can only find ones that have "approximate" mileage tested, etc. and no records or provenance etc. So that's why I'm considering the extra $2K-$3K for the reman using my engine peripherals. I read your thread and someone said they had warped heads from running too hot. Mine was overheating a few years ago and Sewell fixed it, but I can't remember what the issue was. I need to check the records. I wonder if that could be the cause. I'm going to look at the service records tomorrow. Thanks again.

I will touch on the resale of a vehicle with a replaced engine. Typically if the vehicle is sold shortly after a engine is swapped people will be cautious of purchase since there is potential that something is not right and they are going to purchase a can of worms. Holding the car and driving it for 3-4 years before selling will help. It all will come down to what engine is put in a vehicle, what history that engine has, who did the work, what was documented, etc. It will probably not sell for higher than a similar vehicle with the original engine even though the one with the original engine would have higher mileage.

All that said, I would be cautious of a remanufactured engine. Most of the ones I researched for the 2UZ are using your engine as a core and rebuilding it. The best bet (if an engine is needed) is to find a good one out of a low mileage vehicle that was involved in a rear end collision with no damage to the engine bay.

Best of luck. Curious to hear what the actual failure point is. Did they mention anything about a spark plug blowing out of the head? The ticking makes me think something in that direction.
Thanks awesomeissquid! There isn't any visible issue and the spark plugs are all good and were replaced in 2019 as was the coil on #7, which caught my eye since it is #7 that is the issue 3 years later. The remanufactured engine from Engine Forge would not be my core, but from another, but I believe they are OEM and I would hope/think it would be Japanese. I will ask. It comes with some sort of 3 year warranty. I too think that if I have Toyota do it, I'd have a good story if I were to sell it in 3-4 years. Good thinking on selling it right after luckily I wouldn't plan on that since I'm not ready to give this baby up. If I can get an answer on what the actual failure is. Cheers.

What code is the CEL and 2nd on the compression check.
Trunk: I seem to not be enough of a squeaky wheel here as I have asked, but not gotten an answer, but I will press tomorrow! Thanks
 
Call Mayo Automotive in Lewisville and talk to him. I bet he can get you going again for a lot less $$$
Thanks shane. I will call them tomorrow. I called Davenport today, run by a former Sewell foreman, and the only difference between them and Toyota would be where they source the engine which would be a used instead of reman. Toyota is really pushing the remanufactured but they said they would put in whatever I wanted.
 
+2

A friend with a 2UZ in a 200 series has gone down that path - and about to have the engine out again to sort out a ticking noise.
Thanks willyroo. I am not considering a rebuilt engine nor rebuilding my engine. Unless you guys are saying a rebuilt engine is the same as a remanufactured engine? I am considering buying a remanufactured long block engine and adding my peripherals to it, or buying a used engine (which is very difficult to find and be confident with use/maintenance etc.) This is one of them:

Toyota 2UZ-FE 4.7 Long Block Crate Engine Sale, Remanufactured - https://spprecision.com/products/toyota-2uz-fe-47-long-block-crate-engine-sale.html
 
Yes a remanufactured engine is the same as rebuilt.

Also just wanted to flag the long block crate engine is one that requires your core to be used.
 
Yes a remanufactured engine is the same as rebuilt.

Also just wanted to flag the long block crate engine is one that requires your core to be used.
Thanks awesomeissquid. The places I have called have their own cores, but I do need to send in mine for their future use.
 
Personally, I would get the engine rebuilt long before I shoved a "remanufactured" long block in there from a supplier. Find a well respected machine shop. Find out where the local guy with a numbers matching 1963 Corvette had his 327 rebuilt. Have a discussion about your expectations and ask what approach the builder would take with the rebuild. The builder will even source Toyota bearings, seals, pistons, rings, etc if they are available and that is what you wanted (at least my local guy will). This will be the most expensive route, but with a remanufactured long block you have absolutely no clue what was used to assemble it. No thanks. I'd go with any used 2UZ I felt somewhat comfortable with before using a remanufactured block as well.
 
Personally, I would get the engine rebuilt long before I shoved a "remanufactured" long block in there from a supplier. Find a well respected machine shop. Find out where the local guy with a numbers matching 1963 Corvette had his 327 rebuilt. Have a discussion about your expectations and ask what approach the builder would take with the rebuild. The builder will even source Toyota bearings, seals, pistons, rings, etc if they are available and that is what you wanted (at least my local guy will). This will be the most expensive route, but with a remanufactured long block you have absolutely no clue what was used to assemble it. No thanks. I'd go with any used 2UZ I felt somewhat comfortable with before using a remanufactured block as well.
Thanks 87warrior. Definitely something I would love to consider, but for this, at the point in my life, would seem more effort and money and inconvenience than I am willing to put myself through. It sounds fun though!

3 months ago, I would have told you that you could totally trust my well maintained, garaged, Dallas Texas, diaper dried, Home Depot getter engine to put in your bruiser, but then you'd come knocking at my door pointing at cylinder #7! lol
 
I’d really be pressing for what exactly is driving the decision to replace the engine. It’s mighty rare for this engine to just shudder and die.

You can honestly buy a comparable truck in our area for much less than what you are looking to spend on the engine.
 
I know Mayo Automotive has done an engine swap on a LC100 and I think it was around $5K but that was a couple of years ago. But he works on Toyota and Lexus everyday and has done me right over the years. I’d call him see what he can do for you.
 
I’d really be pressing for what exactly is driving the decision to replace the engine. It’s mighty rare for this engine to just shudder and die.

You can honestly buy a comparable truck in our area for much less than what you are looking to spend on the engine.
Hi Bisho. Thank you for your input and thank you for your service to US. I will ask today what they can tell me what they think the failure is. I don't know why they have not given me the specifics just yet although I feel like I have asked enough. I initially considered looking for a replacement LC but my initial searches turned nothing up that I feel would compare and most are more than the $12K-$14K. Plus it's already mine! It is a valid consideration nonetheless.
 
No, you are not crazy about spending good money on a well-taken-care cruiser. It's hard to get anything similar for what you'll be spending to fix it. Now if it was a rust bucket, different story.
 
Don't know if you're a Facebook member but this came up this morning. The seller deals in tons of LC parts.

175k miles for $1000 in CA.

facebook.com/groups/uzj100/permalink/1388537578666110/?mibextid=Nif5oz
 

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