On side of road right now-need immobilizer wire info (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dgz32
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BullElk
SILVER Star
Have you tried a new fuse in the EFI slot?
BullElk
SILVER Star
My immobilizer fix
I got the famous crank but not start immobilizer problem. I replaced the 20A EFI fuse with a 30A fuse and it started right away. However, it was a temporary fix. I had the same problem again 4 days later. This is what I did to get the engine started. It has been working with no problem for...
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Just replaced it with a 30A fuse. No joy. So guess it’s not the immobilizer then.
Driving on the interstate, I suddenly loose all power. Was able to coast to the shoulder. I was thinking since I’ve had some hard starting lately that it might be the EFI relay.
Truck has new alternator, good starter, and good battery.
Was able to get a tow to a truck stop. So, yeah. At least I’m not on 85.
Driving on the interstate, I suddenly loose all power. Was able to coast to the shoulder. I was thinking since I’ve had some hard starting lately that it might be the EFI relay.
Truck has new alternator, good starter, and good battery.
Was able to get a tow to a truck stop. So, yeah. At least I’m not on 85.
Could be APPS, try putting foot to floor and see if it goes. Year and mileage? Codes?
Does it crank but does not start? The quick bypass is to run a wire from positive battery terminal to I think the F slot.
The bypass will not help if you don't have blinking security light when engine cranks.
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APPS? Only code is for O2 sensor but that’s been on for a couple days.
APPS? Not sure what that is. Are you referring to the brake booster pump? If so that seems fine and I didn’t get any audible warning.
It’s a 2000 LX470 with 310,000 miles.
Yep. Will crank over and over but not start.
I was able to do the bypass wire and it didn’t help. I’m now thinking it’s a fuel issue. Really wondering if the pump I installed a few months ago is bad. Either that or the fuel filter.
Thanks. I Checked this last night and didn’t get the blinking light on cranking. I’m thinking it’s gotta be a fuel issue.
Had my BIL pick me up late last night. I left the LX at a truck stop. Now need to figure out how to get it back home to work on it. UHaul isn’t liking the tow vehicle I’m putting in to pull it and a tow back home with a rollback is gonna be almost $800. Hahaha
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- #10
Gotcha. Yeah, it’s apparently not the immobilizer. So at least can rule that out.
BullElk
SILVER Star
I also think fuel pump would be next potential issue. I think I’ve learned that they will go out if voltage drops just a small amount. It may test good when wired directly to battery but may not when installed due to some voltage drop. Then may start up next try.
@ClassyJalopy just replaced a 2 year old OEM pump.
Started here, his didn't die while running though. He goes through a few other options you could check as well.
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Started here, his didn't die while running though. He goes through a few other options you could check as well.
Builds - The Story of Blue
I've run that same HM M1 for the last 130k (of 375k) in my 99 and have seen no issues. There is some dispute here on MUD about HM oil, but as far as I am concerned any fresh, high quality, oil will keep the 4.7 happy.
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Remove one of the hoses associated with fuel filter and you should see fuel spraying out. If not then it is probably the file filter.
Apps is the accelerator pedal position sensor in the throttle body.
But if the motor isn't starting and running sporadically I agree with others it is sounding more like fuel pump than anything else.
But if the motor isn't starting and running sporadically I agree with others it is sounding more like fuel pump than anything else.
Fuel pump check and change at truck stop is doable. Does sound like fuel issue. I had the hose blow out on my newly swapped pump. Must have gotten nicked on install and wouldn't run since fuel wouldn't pressure up.
That is not what I said if I understand you correctly.
If it starts with starting fluid, then it is fuel issue. Otherwise it is spark, sensor, or/and wiring issue.
Check if you have spark.
Check the wire harness close to driver side timing belt cover for damage from serpentine belt.
What is the mileage and did you have timing belt job done recently?
HWY "suddenly loose all power":
Did engine stop running or just go limp mode (idles but can't raise RPMs)?
Did dash lights, accessories, etc. also all lose power (go dead/off)
When trying to start: Does it crank fast/normal speed/sound, just does not start engine/fire up?
You mentioned o2 DTC, are you sure no other DTC (codes) now or in past few months?
Why did you replace fuel pump? Did you use Toyota Denso, Denso or aftermarket?
BTW: Best practice to replaced fuel filter and time a fuel pump R&R.
Lots of bad gas around. As was mention above. You can easily disconnect fuel line from fuel filter. By pinching green clip, and pull off the line. If you had just been cranking engine, fuel pressure should be high (built up) in line, filter, rails and injectors. Fuel will squirt out, so be carefully. I wrap fuel line with a rag and make sure no sparks are even possible in area. A further test would be to connect a hose to the fuel filter (where line disconnected from), and run hose to a catch can. Than crank engine. Fuel should run out into catch can steady and fast. Be very very careful. Fuel vapors are extremely combustible. Even the tiniest spark or flame will ignite the fumes. BTW: Bad fuel normally does not cause a HWY engine shut down, but often causes a sputter. We then often see a lean fuel DTC pending, if checked before IG key turn off.
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My apologies. It was a misinterpretation.
