LC200 Rear Tailgate Cargo Interior Light DIY - Total Cost $26+tax (1 Viewer)

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You can check with a multi meter to be sure.. likely the red is power, blue goes to the lock when switch it pressed, and white-black is ground.

I would be concerned using those wires (and blowing a fuse) as they are only meant to run the lock. Best to run a new power wire for the light/s.

maybe it's ok as montegofd3s looks like he has an 08 and it worked ok.
Thanks for the reply Fisher23 - I forgot to update my post

I took it over to a buddy's house - much smarter than me with electrical troubleshooting. We looked all over inside the rear door with a multimeter for a dedicated "on" power lead, couldn't find one that didn't have a switch/actuator of some kind.
So we took apart the driver side rear pillar and tapped into the power lead for the towing connector. (always on) Ran a line, fed it through the oem harness and put it all back together.
The only bummer is we forgot to take pictures along the way. :bang: But here is the finished product

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Interesting. I assumed the same thing for my 2009 LX570, and found out after routing and terminating the wire that the PWR at the trailer connector was ignition switched . . .

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Thanks for the reply Fisher23 - I forgot to update my post
together.
The only bummer is we forgot to take pictures along the way. :bang: But here is the finished product

NP.. I've taken that apart before.

I'm looking to do the same and likely put some red-tape over the light so it's red avoiding the bug attractant white light.
 
Thanks for the replies. I also ended up walking to a neighbor who was an electrical engineer. He helped me navigate soldering the wires together and figuring out the connections. I wanted the light automatically on when the hatch was opened, both the light and the backlit switch off when closed, and depressing the switch to turn it off (instead of on like typical).

We soldered the brown and black to the positive (marked up wire), the red and white to the negative (less marked up wire), left the blue out, then used the duotap to tap into the rear liftgate power. Everything is working as expected...for now.

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I used the 6” tap extension and went directly to the thick black and red wires on the hatch button. They have extra long extension to run elsewhere in the truck if need be. No splicing needed, the duotap is perfect (you need pliers to close). It’s easier to reach in and pop out the hatch button to release the wire than try to pull the wire out otherwise. It also doesn’t mater on the duotap what wire (red/black) goes where.

Been meaning to thank you for posting this. Great results for me. Easy installation on my 2018 LC.
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@BrainDoc did you end up installing the VLEDS light with a pushbutton? That's the route I would like to go, and am looking for any insight possible.
Yes I used this switch off Amazon. The light is a game changer when I have to hook up a hitch at night. Just pop the hatch turn on the light and plenty of light.

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Here's an all-in-one alternative (built-in switch) that also gives you the ability to run a yellow light (for bugs?). Might be good for an engine bay light, too.

Amazon product ASIN B09NJL788L
 
Cleaning out my shed and found this. free to a good home just pay shipping. durham nc.
Somehow I avoided reading this thread and your post, got too excited about a plug n play light, hit the order button and of course I have a '10 and it doesn't work either...
 
Just did this mod, different light. Total Cost for $35. Light can do Red and White which is what I was hoping for...
Looks nice! Did you have to remove the entire tailgate panel, or just the small plastic cutout where the light sits? Also, what was the third hole you had to drill - I only see the two for the light itself. Thanks!
 
Looks nice! Did you have to remove the entire tailgate panel, or just the small plastic cutout where the light sits? Also, what was the third hole you had to drill - I only see the two for the light itself. Thanks!
Just the small plastic cutout where the light sits. Smaller hands or long tools to get to the liftgate button wiring harness can be tough too but you can also pop just parts of that back tailgate panel to more easily reach the button.

The 3 holes were: 1 for the wiring from the light, and the other 2 were the mounting holes for the light itself.
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Just the small plastic cutout where the light sits. Smaller hands or long tools to get to the liftgate button wiring harness...
Awesome, thanks!

Every time I reread this I feel dumber for asking where the third hole was...
 
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Just did this mod, different light. Total Cost for $35. Light can do Red and White which is what I was hoping for.

Red & White Light with Power Buttons - RED White Car Interior LED Dome Map Reading Light Roll Bar Cage Mount switch UTV | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/335006799417
T Connector for Wiring (10 Pack) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHS5NKDP
I had some lying around but used m4 x 12 screws and 11/64 to drill the 3 necessary holes.


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Any issues or anything that you would have done differently? I just ordered. Thanks for posting!
 
Just the small plastic cutout where the…
Thanks @zone for the write up, I followed suit and it was super easy. I appreciate all the groundwork laid in this thread as I’ve wanted to do this mod for a long time but was nervous about figuring out wiring. Can’t wait to use it in the wild.

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