What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (41 Viewers)

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The general consensus on the forum suggests the 100's with 5 forward gears in the transmission are superior to the 100's with 4 forward gears in the transmission. Since my 1999 has the 'substandard' equipment, I have sourced parts which will allow me to upgrade. This particular 5 forward gear transmission is kind of hard to find, but it does come with a 3rd pedal attachment. I'll be sure to do a thorough write up with my findings when the mating begins ;)
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Wife ordered a new battery for the LX, the current one I have was dated back to 2017 but it was still kicking albeit not as much as it was when it was new. Also the battery size was a tad small. From what I was told the battery that was in the LX was the absolute minimum you can put into the thing. This new battery was the full 12"

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Installed and it was snug as a bug. Glad to have a new battery in place now and not be worried if it will give up the ghost while we're out and about.
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1. Big 2 upgrade. This is just like the "The Big Three" Electrical Upgrade but you've already spent 10 minutes rooting out a dropped screw, take one look at the back screw on the third cable and nope right out of that.
2. Decided the red was a bit much and went for a subtler stripe refresh. Nowhere near as baller as powdercoated sliders to match the wheels, but I'm digging it.

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1. Big 2 upgrade. This is just like the "The Big Three" Electrical Upgrade but you've already spent 10 minutes rooting out a dropped screw, take one look at the back screw on the third cable and nope right out of that.
2. Decided the red was a bit much and went for a subtler stripe refresh. Nowhere near as baller as powdercoated sliders to match the wheels, but I'm digging it.

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That's a beffy negative ground wire, did you make it or purchased?
 
That's a beffy negative ground wire, did you make it or purchased?
I made it. You can buy a kit with them pre-made, but since I'm planning to run some cables to the back eventually I just bought a crimper and did it myself.
 
1. Big 2 upgrade. This is just like the "The Big Three" Electrical Upgrade but you've already spent 10 minutes rooting out a dropped screw, take one look at the back screw on the third cable and nope right out of that.
2. Decided the red was a bit much and went for a subtler stripe refresh. Nowhere near as baller as powdercoated sliders to match the wheels, but I'm digging it.



View attachment 3297348
I was looking all over at the engine bay trying to figre out where you put a striped cable rather than a red wire.

Oh. Ohhh...
Sometimes it takes me a minute. Looks good though- subtle and goes well.
 
Removed the front drive shaft, cleaned it, and applied Green Grease.

Aside: I still have not figured out how to use a grease gun correctly. Always air pockets and a big mess :bang:

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Pulled all my door cards for a deep clean and lock actuator motor replacement (AZ heat has destroyed them). Discovered both my front JBL speakers have been blown since purchasing, ordered a speaker surround kit to fix. Also working on ordering a new rear wind deflector via alibaba because i stupidly used mine as a handle, $1000+ on land cruiser parts is a steep enough for me to stray from OEM.

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Installed the new driveshaft a while back, but finally got around to installing the front window guides. Much smoother operation and the driver side alignment is better now. Easy job- didn’t remove the glass. No trouble with a little silicone spray for motivation. Old driveshaft is for sale if anyone needs one. Has new ujoints, but needs to be balanced. I was impatient and ordered a new one. Refoaming the front speakers while the panels are off. These two looked way better than the other three I’ve already done. Now to investigate the water that came in the rear at the car wash.
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Installed LEDs in all the tail lights for a little extra brightness and maybe a 2% decrease in the chances some inattentive driver will plow into me. Went back and switched the turns back to conventional, having forgotten that LEDs lead to wacky quick cycling otherwise.
The Diode Dynamics Smart tap controller is pretty straight forward to install and resolves that issue.
 
The Diode Dynamics Smart tap controller is pretty straight forward to install and resolves that issue.
Yo, thanks for the pro tip!
(Immediately went and checked it out. What a great mod for the LC! Especially if you're gonna go LED. Purchas3d!)
 
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New A/C condenser, blocked off rear A/C, replaced KM3's with duratracs, new exhaust front to back, greased all u joints and slip yoke, and attempted to change diff fluids only to find two stripped fill plugs, greased sunroof tracks and cleaned that out, and replaced crap flooded battery with a northstar 27F AGM, installed iromman 4x4 front recovery points, and changed out the prefilter on the snorkel for a ram head.

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I installed the z36 powerstop front kit. Slotted and drilled rotors with carbon ceramic pads. I've had the rear installed for a while and they works better than akebono. My front finally wore out so i installed the front 2 years later.

While I was replacing the bearings and races I found the right side with rusty colored grease.. after the change I had less vibration from acceleration and less driveline clunk. Also noticed splines on cv was getting damaged maybe from seized wheel bearing? There's a bit of slop so I'll get new hub cover and maybe new cv axle next time around.
All new rotors. Powerstop. Replaced the pads with OEM. Also replaced the rear driveshaft searching for the drive/reverse clunk. @geanes great suggestion. So much easier to replace the whole thing. my tech didn’t even remove the skid plates.

It helped, but it still clunks. I’m thinking to check the diff bushing next. No real pictures. View attachment 2228306
 

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