DoubleNickels
SILVER Star
Nice. I recognize that "stout table" and shop background. Nice to have well-equipped, capable amigos.
Builds Owyhee J.A. BJ75 Troopy Journal (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Owyhee Jackass
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #402
The RTT worked out well on the trip. Not sure I'd buy one, but makes me want a pop-top on the troopy more. It was nice to be able to climb in to bed without re-arranging the interior. Granted, we could also just as easily put up a normal ground-tent or our cots on the ground, but being contained in the vehicle and ease of deployment were nice.
Getting the 75-pound dog in and out of it wasn't too bad, once he figured out that was where we were spending the night, he didn't fight it. I think if there was a mid-way platform from the tailgate to the tent, he'd be able to jump in and out. Or I need to train him to climb a ladder.
Another observation, as I said before, we haven't camped out of the 80 for about 5-years. It was nice having cruise-control and to be able to keep up with traffic (although we were not able to pass-up any gas stations @ 12mpg
) , and a tail-gate is a handy thing to have for camping. I still like the spacious cargo area and higher head-room of the troopy though.
Getting the 75-pound dog in and out of it wasn't too bad, once he figured out that was where we were spending the night, he didn't fight it. I think if there was a mid-way platform from the tailgate to the tent, he'd be able to jump in and out. Or I need to train him to climb a ladder.
Another observation, as I said before, we haven't camped out of the 80 for about 5-years. It was nice having cruise-control and to be able to keep up with traffic (although we were not able to pass-up any gas stations @ 12mpg
) , and a tail-gate is a handy thing to have for camping. I still like the spacious cargo area and higher head-room of the troopy though.
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FJBen
SILVER Star
I’ve got a pop top eurovan I’m getting ready to part out…if you are feeling extra DIY that poptop is very similar dimentions to a troopy
- Thread starter
- #404
Tempting...I'll have to take a closer look at a eurovan. Would it sit interior to the gutter and seal to the roof or does it seal at the gutter?
I don't like the looks of the Alu-cab and don't want to lose any interior head-room. We sit in the back pretty often and any lower roof than stock would not be comfortable as you'd hit your head or have to duck the entire time. So closed, I'd want it at the stock height on the inside.
I don't like the looks of the Alu-cab and don't want to lose any interior head-room. We sit in the back pretty often and any lower roof than stock would not be comfortable as you'd hit your head or have to duck the entire time. So closed, I'd want it at the stock height on the inside.
How similar are we talking? My troopy is already an OEM monstrosity at this point. The entire roof was rotted thru and crappily repaired before I got it… need a new oneI’ve got a pop top eurovan I’m getting ready to part out…if you are feeling extra DIY that poptop is very similar dimentions to a troopy
FJBen
SILVER Star
I believe it’s pretty close. 54” outside width at back and around 55.5ish up front. Really hard to measure solo. Around 114” length.
The actual bed size is 43x74.
@theglobb
I couldn’t find actual dimensions of troopy roof but I imagine this is fairly close. If I had a troopy or even any 4 door Land Cruiser that wasn’t excellent shape I’d probably figure out how to make this work. This would be quite a project
We had talked about finding another eurovan and putting the pop top on it but I’m not sure I have the energy to deal with another used/abused eurovan. The setup in them is great, VW electronics/reliability not so much.
Trying to figure out the part out sequence is going to be a pain.
I also have a weak-awn rooftop tent I’m repairing and selling as well as it’s too big I think for my BJ74.
Got to remember that the troopy front tilt’s down so one would need to make some kind of filler
- Thread starter
- #408
Received a new turbo day the other day.
My stock turbo was dropping boost periodically, had oil on the outside of the housing. I debated a rebuild, but figured I'd just keep polishing this turd with a new turbo. As they say, buy once, cry once.
My experience with the vendor was not what I expected, website said in-stock...it was not. I did not get any communication about lead-time or availability until several days went by and I inquired to them when/if I'd get my turbo. After two and a half weeks (was told it would ship in 5 days) and another inquiry, I finally got word that it was ready to ship and all I needed to do was pay another $178 for shipping...I'd already paid $288 flat-rate international shipping upon purchase. Another "sorry, our website is out of date" excuse.
After some more back-and-forth emailing over days (time difference) and me suggesting to them to invoice me via PayPal in order for them to get their additional $$ for shipping, it finally shipped.
Installation went well. I was worried I'd snap a stud off, or wouldn't be able to get to some of the fasteners, but the old one came out without too much trouble.
I was missing two nuts on the outlet, note the soot where I had an exhaust leak that I'd never noticed.
New turbo came with four studs and nuts for that connection, so I didn't have to scrounge around for replacements. It also came with all the necessary gaskets. The supplier claims that the coolant lines are not necessary on their diesel turbos, so that connection came with a gasketed block-off plate. I was able to find plugs in my parts stash, and deleted the coolant lines. the new turbo did NOT come with the studs for the oil supply/return line though, which I thought was strange. I was able to remove the old ones without any drama, another small miracle as the head of the stud is a 6mm hex. Not much room for error on stripping a fastener that small.
New turbo on the bench, 13B-T/14B-T, green-wheel with 18 psi wastegate actuator.
Got the turbo installed last Saturday, only to find out that the inlet is 3.0" diameter and the stock one was 2.75"...no one in town had an adapter hose 2.75-3.0 inm stock, and it took a week to get one shipped to me . Supplier said "they usually just stretch the old one over it" I didn't think it was possible to stretch 30 year-old rubber that far.
Other gripe is the alignment of the outlet to the crossover pipe is off by a couple degrees. I was able to get the hose to seal, but it needs rotated up about 2-deg.
Initial impressions on driving is that it's performing better, but I'm only getting 11 psi max. out of it. My assumption was I had a leak somewhere but haven't found any loose connections. PV=nRT so maybe since it's a larger volume turbo, it's not building max boost without more fuel? My old smaller turbo built 14 psi with the same fuel.
My stock turbo was dropping boost periodically, had oil on the outside of the housing. I debated a rebuild, but figured I'd just keep polishing this turd with a new turbo. As they say, buy once, cry once.
My experience with the vendor was not what I expected, website said in-stock...it was not. I did not get any communication about lead-time or availability until several days went by and I inquired to them when/if I'd get my turbo. After two and a half weeks (was told it would ship in 5 days) and another inquiry, I finally got word that it was ready to ship and all I needed to do was pay another $178 for shipping...I'd already paid $288 flat-rate international shipping upon purchase. Another "sorry, our website is out of date" excuse.
After some more back-and-forth emailing over days (time difference) and me suggesting to them to invoice me via PayPal in order for them to get their additional $$ for shipping, it finally shipped.
Installation went well. I was worried I'd snap a stud off, or wouldn't be able to get to some of the fasteners, but the old one came out without too much trouble.
I was missing two nuts on the outlet, note the soot where I had an exhaust leak that I'd never noticed.
New turbo came with four studs and nuts for that connection, so I didn't have to scrounge around for replacements. It also came with all the necessary gaskets. The supplier claims that the coolant lines are not necessary on their diesel turbos, so that connection came with a gasketed block-off plate. I was able to find plugs in my parts stash, and deleted the coolant lines. the new turbo did NOT come with the studs for the oil supply/return line though, which I thought was strange. I was able to remove the old ones without any drama, another small miracle as the head of the stud is a 6mm hex. Not much room for error on stripping a fastener that small.
New turbo on the bench, 13B-T/14B-T, green-wheel with 18 psi wastegate actuator.
Got the turbo installed last Saturday, only to find out that the inlet is 3.0" diameter and the stock one was 2.75"...no one in town had an adapter hose 2.75-3.0 inm stock, and it took a week to get one shipped to me
. Supplier said "they usually just stretch the old one over it" I didn't think it was possible to stretch 30 year-old rubber that far. Other gripe is the alignment of the outlet to the crossover pipe is off by a couple degrees. I was able to get the hose to seal, but it needs rotated up about 2-deg.
Initial impressions on driving is that it's performing better, but I'm only getting 11 psi max. out of it. My assumption was I had a leak somewhere but haven't found any loose connections. PV=nRT so maybe since it's a larger volume turbo, it's not building max boost without more fuel? My old smaller turbo built 14 psi with the same fuel.
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- Thread starter
- #409
Going to go through this thread and see if I can determine another reason that I'm not getting full boost and that is seems slow to build.
forum.ih8mud.com
Bummer that the OP on that thread ended up having to send his new turbo back for a replacement. Don't think I have that kind of patience or perseverance.
RTH: GTurbo got lazy after highway drive, slow to build boost, lower boost levels than normal
Coles notes: '93 HDJ81 auto, 140,000km, 3" from OEM dump pipe back, no IC, Gturbo grunter extreme installed about 10 days ago, main fuel screw turned up 1/2 turn total in 1/8 turn increments, truck was running great, turbo spooled quickly, great midrange and top end power, EGT's in check...
forum.ih8mud.com
Bummer that the OP on that thread ended up having to send his new turbo back for a replacement. Don't think I have that kind of patience or perseverance.
you cant loosen the center clamp and rotate it?
- Thread starter
- #411
There's a very large snap-ring that I can remove to rotate it. Then need to re-seat. If I loosen the center v-band clamp to rotate the center section, that moves the oil supply/return flange, which might not want to move as there's some piping attached to it.
I'll need to rotate the housing if I install an intercooler. I'll most likely wait until then to adjust if it isn't leaking now.
I'll need to rotate the housing if I install an intercooler. I'll most likely wait until then to adjust if it isn't leaking now.
- Thread starter
- #412
Not sure, but I think I know why the housing is misaligned and maybe why I'm not getting full boost.
Note the alignment (or misalignment that is) of the actuator rod.
I think that is binding up the wastegate
I removed the circlip and the wastegate moved freely. I took one of the actuator mounting bolts off (lower not shown) and rotated the actuator out a bit and drove to work like that. Got maybe one more psi out of it (11.9) Also turned the fuel screw one more quarter of a turn.
I think I'll swap my old actuator on next. Note the bend in its arm.
I still think I should be getting at least the same boost out of this turbos as the old turbo was producing with the same fuel pump settings.
The supplier states that I just need a 'tune'. I think I need a new actuator arm that's more aligned with the wastegate.
Note the alignment (or misalignment that is) of the actuator rod.
I think that is binding up the wastegate
I removed the circlip and the wastegate moved freely. I took one of the actuator mounting bolts off (lower not shown) and rotated the actuator out a bit and drove to work like that. Got maybe one more psi out of it (11.9) Also turned the fuel screw one more quarter of a turn.
I think I'll swap my old actuator on next. Note the bend in its arm.
I still think I should be getting at least the same boost out of this turbos as the old turbo was producing with the same fuel pump settings.
The supplier states that I just need a 'tune'. I think I need a new actuator arm that's more aligned with the wastegate.
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FJBen
SILVER Star
You can always close/pinch off the wastegate and see what it does. If it won’t got past 11, you can rule out wastegate.
The misalignment won’t cause any boost issues unless the wastegate is getting stuck/bound open. Then it will leak off and never boost.
- Thread starter
- #414
It's spooling up faster, so I think it was bound up. Still max at 11. I could mess with adjusting the actuator arm, but as it doesn't line up I think the next step will be swap the old one on as it'll line up better. The old one has the ability to swap springs too, so if I need to I can order a new spring for it that's set to 18.
- Thread starter
- #415
Ran the old actuator with the same results. So far I've turned the fuel screw in about one full turn in 1/4 turn increments. Max EGTs are around 1350-1400 F, not too smokey yet (IMO). Gonna quit adding fuel and see if I can adjust the actuator for more boost.
Fiddled with the new actuator bracket and swapped it back on. I rigged up my bike pump to the actuator and it's opening around 10 psi (gauge resolution on the bike pump isn't that good, first mark on the gauge is 20 psi) I shortened the actuator rod two turns, max boost went up to 12.5, turned it one more turn this a.m. and its up to 13+ psi.
Noticed my water temp gauge isn't moving at all...need to figure out what's up with that now too.
Fiddled with the new actuator bracket and swapped it back on. I rigged up my bike pump to the actuator and it's opening around 10 psi (gauge resolution on the bike pump isn't that good, first mark on the gauge is 20 psi) I shortened the actuator rod two turns, max boost went up to 12.5, turned it one more turn this a.m. and its up to 13+ psi.
Noticed my water temp gauge isn't moving at all...need to figure out what's up with that now too.
FJBen
SILVER Star
Hmm, somethings not right. Did you try the old visgrip block the wastegate hose? That would take the actuator out of the equation.
Do you have a link to which turbo you ordered? You said the turbo is bigger which is kind of the opposite that people do to 13bt/14bts.
- Thread starter
- #417
I have not. I may test out a manual boost controller that Ian (SNLC) offered up. Just haven't made it over to his shop yet.
The inlet is bigger, it looks very similar to the CT26 that was on there though.
Very little info on their website, that's one they recommended to me. Very little help from them as well.
The inlet is bigger, it looks very similar to the CT26 that was on there though.
Very little info on their website, that's one they recommended to me. Very little help from them as well.
- Thread starter
- #418
Crimped the wastegate hose shut with some vise-grips this a.m. Didn't get it up on the highway, but on the short drive, it hit 17 psi.
Thanks for the advice. I'll continue adding pre-load to the spring, turned the rod in two more turns.
FJBen
SILVER Star
Yep sounds like maybe just some wastegate adjustment. What boost are you wanting to max at?
Not sure what gturbo recommends but sounds like you aren’t having much luck contacting them.
- Thread starter
- #420
18 is what the actuator is supposed to max at. I was at 14 with the old one, and I wasn't smokey at that setpoint. I'll fiddle with it some more, max EGTs seem to have come down with the higher pressure, maybe less smoke, it puffs a bit on shifts, but not excessive.
