Which engine? (1 Viewer)

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That is the plan if i keep the 12ht, which is a strong possibility, it is the cheapest and the least complicated. This is base on what i have learned on this thread. But I have not given up on the 1HD-FTE. I am heading toward South Africa does anyone know of a place in South Africa that can do this king of modification or source for 1HD-FTE. It will be a while till i get there but just doing advance planing. Thx

You're putting the cart before the horse. Before you can do any of that you need a big intercooler.
A big intercooler will solve your current EGT and boost problems.

The mods listed are to get more fuel and prevent blown head-gaskets. Neither of which are your current problem. Your engine should already have ALFIN pistons.
 
There are a lot of interesting subjects at play here.

First, there is a standalone wiring harness available for the 1HDFTE (and possibly 15BFTE) from Mick Wallin in Australia. Check out 1hdfte.com.au. A 79 series manual transmission ECU, Mick’s harness, a spill valve controller, and a pedal turn a somewhat complicated electrical integration problem into a two wire motor like all the other Toyota mechanical diesels.

I am currently building two 79 series pick up trucks with 1HDFTEs here in the USA. Both are going to be running Mick’s harness.

A good set of +30 injectors and a G turbo red wheel or a UFI 21L and you can safely make 300 hp out of your FTE.

You are still restricted by the limited engine bay size in the HJ47.

I think that your best bet for a combination of low rpm torque, moderate horsepower, and minimal maintenance for world travel is probably the 15BFT or even 15BFTE, as other have noted. They can be found from Dynas more likely with an in-line pump and from Megacruisers with a rotary VE pump. The 15 BT or BFT can run big power with a Holset. Check out Chaiyut Khemglad on Facebook, he is in Bangkok, Thailand, and builds some pretty incredible motors- 60 psi boost on mechanical pump converted BFTE’s.

The short, fat 15 B series motors would be a better fit into your 40 series engine bay in my opinion. You would have a much better time fitting a large front mount intercooler up front. You can also get an adapter plate made by BIG4 Adapters (Benjamin Schnapper, also on Facebook). This will let you run an h15x transmission and HF1A/HF2A 80 series transfer case, much stronger than h55/split case.

If any of this was brought up in the past eight pages, sorry for repeating myself.

Finally, I am planning to put a 15BFTE with an H152 and HF1A into my Fj40, so I am exploring all of these options myself.
 
You're putting the cart before the horse. Before you can do any of that you need a big intercooler.
A big intercooler will solve your current EGT and boost problems.

The mods listed are to get more fuel and prevent blown head-gaskets. Neither of which are your current problem. Your engine should already have ALFIN pistons.
You're putting the cart before the horse. Before you can do any of that you need a big intercooler.
A big intercooler will solve your current EGT and boost problems.

The mods listed are to get more fuel and prevent blown head-gaskets. Neither of which are your current problem. Your engine should already have ALFIN pistons.
I have an over the engine intercooler with 2 fans. Why would you say i already have Alfin pistons? Yes my engine was rebuild but i don’t remember changing the pistons, but i will check i think there is a thread here about the rebuild.Thx

45CC15FE-076A-45D7-BBF0-9C105C8FA039.jpeg
 
Have you got some more angles of that intercooler?

12HT being a factory turbo engine would be expected to have ALFIN pistons. I can't imagine anyone making non reinforced pistons for them.

Isuzu engines from the same time had ALFIN pistons and MLS head-gaskets from the factory. Because anything less in a turbo diesel isn't reliable. I'm pretty sure Toyota and Isuzu engineers drink at the same bars because you'll find the same ideas in both.
 
Have you got some more angles of that intercooler?

12HT being a factory turbo engine would be expected to have ALFIN pistons. I can't imagine anyone making non reinforced pistons for them.

Isuzu engines from the same time had ALFIN pistons and MLS head-gaskets from the factory. Because anything less in a turbo diesel isn't reliable. I'm pretty sure Toyota and Isuzu engineers drink at the same bars because you'll find the same ideas in both.
Angles, without the fans the final set up is with 2 fans with a manual switch. thx
9F1A2AB1-1AF4-40AD-A6DC-750AEE97FB36.jpeg
B0DD4FF1-41DD-43A7-B668-97149C5EAA4B.jpeg
975B38F0-49C5-4045-AE4C-1A6A1D737338.jpeg
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with manual switch.
 
Your intercooler may be acting as an interheater sitting above the engine like that, i do see the hood scoop and fans but that could be limiting its effectiveness for sure
Another thing is where you are measuring the PSI from. Your 13psi, if measured at the turbo, could be much less at the manifold, there could be leaks etc so lessening the total effectiveness as well.
As others have also said, i have also found that 20 psi has a cooling effect on the egts as opposed to 13-14 psi with the fuel being the same, so there may be some things going on there.
For instance if your 13 psi is an actual 4-5 psi at the manifold then turing it up to 20 psi might only actually be netting you 10-14 psi in which case you may just experience that as a egt climb and not the cooling effect others have noted.
id look for air leaks and where the psi is being measured from, and although it is a huge pain in the ass perhaps moving that intercooler to the front somehow, i think you may find some efficiency this way
 
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Your intercooler may be acting as an interheater sitting above the engine like that, i do see the hood scoop and fans but that could be limiting its effectiveness for sure
Another thing is where you are measuring the PSI from. Your 13psi, if measured at the turbo, could be much less at the manifold, there could be leaks etc so lessening the total effectiveness as well.
As others have also said, i have also found that 20 psi has a cooling effect on the egts as opposed to 13-14 psi with the fuel being the same, so there may be some things going on there.
For instance if your 13 psi is an actual 4-5 psi at the manifold then turing it up to 20 psi might only actually be netting you 10-14 psi in which case you may just experience that as a egt climb and not the cooling effect others have noted.
id look for air leaks and where the psi is being measured from, and although it is a huge pain in the ass perhaps moving that intercooler to the front somehow, i think you may find some efficiency this way

All good info there. I would also be concerned about pressure loss across the intercooler. One with more cores and more thickness provides less flow resistance as well as better cooling.

Basically if higher boost gives you higher EGT something is wrong. Either a restriction somewhere or a the intercooler isn't cooling. We're trying to find that.
 
All good info there. I would also be concerned about pressure loss across the intercooler. One with more cores and more thickness provides less flow resistance as well as better cooling.

Basically if higher boost gives you higher EGT something is wrong. Either a restriction somewhere or a the intercooler isn't cooling. We're trying to find that.
Your intercooler may be acting as an interheater sitting above the engine like that, i do see the hood scoop and fans but that could be limiting its effectiveness for sure
Another thing is where you are measuring the PSI from. Your 13psi, if measured at the turbo, could be much less at the manifold, there could be leaks etc so lessening the total effectiveness as well.
As others have also said, i have also found that 20 psi has a cooling effect on the egts as opposed to 13-14 psi with the fuel being the same, so there may be some things going on there.
For instance if your 13 psi is an actual 4-5 psi at the manifold then turing it up to 20 psi might only actually be netting you 10-14 psi in which case you may just experience that as a egt climb and not the cooling effect others have noted.
id look for air leaks and where the psi is being measured from, and although it is a huge pain in the ass perhaps moving that intercooler to the front somehow, i think you may find some efficiency this way
Thank I will look into all of this, I think I need a place with all the correct tools to look for leaks and check connections. With regard to the intercooler this is something I want to address when I get South Africa, or importing an already modified engine from Australia if I cannot find someone to do this in South Africa. thank.
 
You will only know how good your current engine is when you've got the ancillaries all working correctly. It most likely will do everything you need once you get the intercooler and tune sorted.
 
There are a lot of interesting subjects at play here.

First, there is a standalone wiring harness available for the 1HDFTE (and possibly 15BFTE) from Mick Wallin in Australia. Check out 1hdfte.com.au. A 79 series manual transmission ECU, Mick’s harness, a spill valve controller, and a pedal turn a somewhat complicated electrical integration problem into a two wire motor like all the other Toyota mechanical diesels.

I am currently building two 79 series pick up trucks with 1HDFTEs here in the USA. Both are going to be running Mick’s harness.

A good set of +30 injectors and a G turbo red wheel or a UFI 21L and you can safely make 300 hp out of your FTE.

You are still restricted by the limited engine bay size in the HJ47.

I think that your best bet for a combination of low rpm torque, moderate horsepower, and minimal maintenance for world travel is probably the 15BFT or even 15BFTE, as other have noted. They can be found from Dynas more likely with an in-line pump and from Megacruisers with a rotary VE pump. The 15 BT or BFT can run big power with a Holset. Check out Chaiyut Khemglad on Facebook, he is in Bangkok, Thailand, and builds some pretty incredible motors- 60 psi boost on mechanical pump converted BFTE’s.

The short, fat 15 B series motors would be a better fit into your 40 series engine bay in my opinion. You would have a much better time fitting a large front mount intercooler up front. You can also get an adapter plate made by BIG4 Adapters (Benjamin Schnapper, also on Facebook). This will let you run an h15x transmission and HF1A/HF2A 80 series transfer case, much stronger than h55/split case.

If any of this was brought up in the past eight pages, sorry for repeating myself.

Finally, I am planning to put a 15BFTE with an H152 and HF1A into my Fj40, so I am exploring all of these options myself.
I did not know about the 15BFTE until I started this thread. I would be interested to follow what you find out for your fj40 build. I will explore the resources that you mention here. The 15bfte is attractive to me because it is on a coaster that weight 7000 pound. My rig is 10,000 fully loaded. here are the specs of the 4 engines
12ht 4.0L, 134hp @ 3500, 232ft-pd @1800
1HD-FT 4.2L, 164hp @ 3600, 280ft-pd @ 1400
1HD-FTE 4.2L, 202hp @ 3400, 317ft-pd @ 1400
15BFTE 4.1L 153hp @ 3200, 282ft-pd @ 1800
compare to my current 12th it has a better performance un modified. I know they are doing a lot of modifications to this engine in Southeast Asia. Problem is I am currently in Africa. The 15bfte option has come up a number times in this thread as a better option for me, so I need to keep it as an option.thx
 
You will only know how good your current engine is when you've got the ancillaries all working correctly. It most likely will do everything you need once you get the intercooler and tune sorted.
thx I need to find a place in South Africa to do that or I need to get my ass to Australia😂
 

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